cadman

I got the smaller one about 6 months ago for $20 brand new. That was a steal. i am looking for the bigger mold. Have you seen any?

Not that it matters, but Columbia Coatings G.P is closer to watermelon. I've looked extensively at all of their colors, as I had a customer that wanted Pro-tecs G.P., and I wasn't going to pay Pro-tecs prices. Anyway it's all relevant on what you want.

Send me a PM with your e-mail. I had some custom green pumpkin powder made up to match Pro-tec's. I have some left. We can work something out. That is the reason I didn't buy Protec's powder. Not for $37.00/pound

I've tried that years ago. The powder cools too quickly to get an even coat. Also if you do get it to stick, the glitter will not lay flat and have many sharp edges. Your best bet is to find really fine glitter and mix it into the epoxy, if you don't want to use powdered glitter. I feel it is easier to just use the Pro-tec powdered glitter. saves a lot of time.

I would be interested in this process. Are you willing to share this info? If not would you be willing to PM me the info.

I have not been getting e-mail notifications going on about two months. Just saw this thread, so I'm late to the races. I use Firefox

So you have Do-It molds with the screw-lok option, and you want to use the exclusive Owner center pin screw-lok, and incorporate this into a Do-It mold, is this correct? If so, have you tried this before? If not then I have mistaken your intentions. The reason I'm asking if you have done this at all is for this reason. The Owner center pin screw lock is much bigger in diameter compared to most of the other screwlock, also there is no place to grab the screwlock and attach it to the hook shank. However let me take a look at this when I get home, and I will give you some ideas. Do you have a phone number, where I can call you to explain this to you tonigh. If so PM it to me, do not post it here.

What mold are you trying to do this to. Model number # . What you are trying to do is very simple and is an old process that we started doing about 9 years ago. Once I see your mold I can tell you what needs to be done.

I used water slide decals on some blades I made with sports team logos. It worked really well, however you have to clearcoat the blades. Here is a link. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/18230-sports-spinnerbaits/?hl=decals#entry137618

I have my blood checked every year, and I practice safe lead pouring the best I can. I have been doing this for over 10 years and my level is about 1 or 2 which is negligible. I do not wear gloves on my hands when I pour, and I pull my jigs out of my molds with pliers if they get stuck. Ever since I started to use Drop-Out, most of my jigs fall out of the cavity. This helps a lot in not handling lead jigs all day long. I am a firm believer in not putting your hands in your mouth while you are pouring, like mentioned above. I also am a firm believer in washing your hands thoroughly with cold water and dishwasher soap. I think that bar soap is bad because you are rubbing it on and into your hands, which will push the lead around into your pores. Also bar soap can easily hold lead contaminates from not washing the soap off. So liquid soap for me. This is just my opinion as I am not a doctor.

I know you can put lime green candy powder paint on yourself over a sliver blade, if you feel like doing that. Don't know off hand who sells these.

Thank You very much for the info, and I thought I new the best places. LOL Good find.

I buy all my bulk hooks from Shorty's Hook Sales or Captain Hooks which is affiliated with Shorty's Hooks. You won't find any better prices anywhere else. The only thing they don't carry is Owner hooks. Owner has very tight reins on their hook pricing. You can however buy hooks direct from Owner, as their prices are comparable with Barlows and everyone else, and their shipping prices are usually less.

I am going to agree with Vodkaman. I made a pan out of 1/8: thick aluminum with 1" folded up sides all around, and it has saved many accidental spills from going over the edge and onto my feet. Now the 1" lip bothered my hands and made for my molds to sit too low, so I got a piece of 1" thick particle board set it into the tray. 12" x 12" so I can rest my molds on and they are flush with the bent edge. Works really well for me. I'll try to take a pic when I get home. BTW nice set up.

That is a great price for lead. I can't touch it here from the scrap yard for under $2. Great deal you got there.

I don't use Boss weedguards, however I see why guys like them. I take the regular weedguards and stick the loose ends into the weedguard hole in the jig. Once dry, I trim the top fused end. This works for me.

I don't actually keep track of each tab. I always keep minimum of 50 to 100 tabs on hand. I keep all my skirts in Plano boxes marked with the color and number in each compartment, so I can easily see if I am getting low. If I start getting low (about 50 tabs), I write it down on my" To Order" list. I try not to keep track of every tab or a matter of fact each hook. Too much like work and too time consuming to add and deduct quantities on a spread sheet on a daily basis. My counts would always be off. On popular colors I always have an additional 100 pack in my overflow box. I rarely ever run out. this is the way I handle my madness. Probably not the answer you're looking for.

steelhead, Unfortunately the bronze Eagle Claw are too weak for your application. Do-IT should have made that jig from the get-go with a stronger hook. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground.

If you are looking for a BLN hook for the SWM-3-A mold, then you will be pretty hard pressed to find one that just fits perfectly. You will have to modify your mold extensively to do this, and also the hook will be too big for the cavity, because of the small profile of the jig head. You can try to use a Mustad 32886, and go from there.

It's not the same as teflon pins.

Read this it was a few threads down, http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/30068-flexcoat-epoxy/

PaJay, you can use any kind of duct tape as long as it is sticky. I also found, that if the duct tape is stiffer, you may not need the cardboard. There are different grades of duct tape. Finally like all adhesive tapes, the hotter the mold gets from constant pouring, the more likely the tape will want to un-adhere (is that a word)? Anyway you know what I mean, so you might have to come up with a different solution.

Here are some pics. In the 1st one, I used a piece of stn stl, and screwed it to the inside of the mold halves. This keeps my hook straight and in the center of the mold when I close it. The second pic would work better for you, as you do not need the hook to stay in the middle, you only need to support it. So I put a piece of cardboard underneath the duct tape and stuck the duct tape onto the mold half. Lot of ideas that will work.

If I remember correctly, the hook hangs quite a way over the edge of the mold, and as it hangs over, pulls the wire insert along with the hook out of the cavity. It also depends on what size hook you are using in what cavity. If this is your dilemma, than you can do 2 things to solve this problem. #1, You can lightly tape the hook shank to the mold half, and that will hold it temporarily until you close your mold to pour. #2, Make a small aluminum ledge onto one mold half, to keeep the hook from doing this. Make the aluminum angle or a ledge for the hook to sit on, and then drill/screw it into the bottom of the mold half or countersink a screw into the face below the cavity. I hope this makes sense. I will post a pic when I get home tonight.

smalljaw, great to hear that there are companies out there that stand behind their product, even if it isn't their fault. Hard to find that kind of service these days. Excellent report.