cadman

Several years ago, I was using regal finish blades from LPO and they were very high quality blades with an excellent finish. I don't know where they get them from now, however if it is from the same source you will not be disappointed.

You might have to go to a body shop, and they might have it.

I personally don't like the skirts the way they look on the bits bug. I think they are too flat. To me a bulkier skirt looks better. JMO

To me it's a matter of personal preference.

I agree with you a lot of drama for two different scenarios. It is going to be interesting to see what happens in several years.

I have never had one go bad, but when I pour a smaller jig like a 1 oz for several hours, the mold does expand some, and I either get flash, or the jig gets stuck in the mold. So what I believe is happening, is either the mold is warping a bit (thus the flash) or the cavity expands and contracts too fast, thus not releasing my jig. However this is my first time pouring 2 oz and 3 oz baits.

You are 100% absolutely correct. At one point it almost seemed like the wood handles on the Do-It mold were getting hot. If I did this for any amount of big numbers, I would invest in another duplicate mold. It would give the other mold time to cool down a bit.

Well, all went great this weekend. I started out pouring with my Lee IV bottom pour and this baby poured her heart out all weekend long. Every cavity filled with no problems from the first down to the 200th jig. I was ready for the worst and had my other pot out just in case things went south, but all was great. The only thing I am not accustomed to, is how long it takes for a 2 oz jig to cool.

The problem with a lead ban is weight versus size ratio. People that don't pour lead or know anything about lead want let's say a heavy jig with a small profile. Well how are you going to make a 2 oz bait small profile if you have to use bismuth? The weight ratio is so different between the two metals,that now you need a jig the size of a softball to get it down to the depths they want. So the fisherman say well can't have a jig that big. So we as lead pourers say what are the alternatives. Well guess what guys, the people who didn't stand up for a lead ban are now going to bitch. Every time they tried to ban lead in Illinois, I always signed petitions. Unfortunately one of these days we too in Illinois will probably be out numbered and lose. All I can say is, guys will have to pony up and pay dearly when this time comes, because bismuth is not cheap, and we will all be fishing with bigger profile jigs if we want them to get down deep.

Buy some self etching primer. They make a gray and a white color. Once applied over a freshly poured jig, this stuff rarely comes off and is easy to paint afterwards. I used to use it for powder painting. The primer really adheres to the jig, and then the powder paint really grips the primer. When you work with the primer, cleanliness on all aspects gives the optimum results. The jig must be free from grease/oil preferably freshly poured, then wear gloves to the keep oils from your fingers from getting onto the clean jig. Tape all exposed areas not to be painted , and then spray several coats. let dry between coats. The primer I used was sold by NAPA. See pic below.

I hear you, been there done that and I'm finished as well with them. Now onto a positive note. I get many items from LPO, Lakeland, Worth and I started slowly working with Jann's. Someone in another thread recommended me to Lure Making.com. I have also found that LPO has gone out of there way for me with almost everything I have requested. There are places out there just not a lot of them.

I have an RCBS pot, so I will use that. I am also using 6/0 hooks

Ok guys, I will be pouring several hundred of these this weekend. I normally don't pour anything this big, as 1 oz is usually the biggest in such volume. Any good pointers from you guys that do this regularly. I have a Lee IV bottom pour pot that I was going to start with. Good or bad idea????? I also was planning on ladle pouring if all else fails. This might be faster, than waiting for the cavity to fill up from the bottom pour. Let me know your thoughts, ideas and anything else. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Guys

Does anyone know where I can buy these by the 10,000 count? Barlow's is not an option. I have a call in to Shorty's. These have to be stainless steel, as I know they sell copper ones also. Also if you guys know of someone making these for the inter-net lure companies and are willing to share the info, PM me. Don't post it here. See pic below clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf clip-on spring coils.pdf

Mark, I read this yesterday and really thought of considering it. Then i thought about it and brought flashbacks of the CSI vinyl paint, where it smelled so bad and the smell lingered for two days in the house. Not to mention the headache I got. My other question is this. If I have to do this let's say in the garage, how do I keep all the dust and debris from sticking to the fininsh once I apply it??? Just curious.

Mark, I do and it is with the pineapple collar. PM sent

Mike, I will take some more pics shortly. I also use a curved piece of cardboard inside

Thanks Ben

Gino, I would give you a build drawing so you can have all the dimensions that you could disperse to anyone that requested it. I would give you a PDF of it. I see you are in Glen Ellyn Illinois, I live in Libertyville, IL. Do you have a phone number I can call you? Ted

Mark, From my experience no. All the plastics I used, if left on the vinyl paint started to melt. The interaction between the two was messy. I have not used vinyl paint in about 7 or 8 years due to the fumes. However, I cannot say that it will affect every type of plastic out there. I know nothing about plastic bait formulation, so maybe the new plastic you guys use now won't affect it. I will say, that the vinyl paint does take a long time to flash off or evaporate, even after the vinyl paint has cured. However I have not noticed the smell of the vinyl paint affecting catch ratio back in the day when I used to use it.

The quickest and easiest is to paint it with vinyl paint and call it a day.

You have a PM

Hey Gino, excellent tool and tutorial. Would you like a cad file of this? Pm me and I can send you one, as it might be easier to post your great idea.

Ben do you have a link to the ultrasonic cleaner you used?