cadman

Do-It molds has a keel weighted mold that you can modify for your purpose.

Hey David, Can you find out what model it is? I've been looking around and don't see anything with a bottom pour feature by Lyman. Is it fairly new or an older discontinued model. Thanks is advance.

Well I called Lyman, and looked on their website. They do have a 10 lb pot, but it is for ladle pour only. The lady at Lyman said they are coming out with some new products. Don't know what that means at this time. Also for the cost of a Lee IV with the bottom pour feature, maybe this is as good as we can expect from now on. I don't know, we shall see.

I see that Lyman does make several melting pots. Will look into it more to see what is available. I think I will find that the cost of these, is not geared to the average consumers like us.

I guess we all have problems here and I guess we all have unique ways to solve our own issues. I read Smalljaws last post, and I do not recommend running the pot on #8. I don't want everyone to turn it on #8 and tell me it isn't working. I too when the pot is running that hot, the top of the lead once it has been heated, starts to get a brown hazy coloring. Which tells me that the lead is too hot. Not to say that you can't pour it like that. So I do turn it down as low as I can to get good pours. I also believe that the pots themselves are not of the same steel alloy as they used to be. I can't confirm this as I am not Lee. However something has changed. Whether the pot mat'l or the heating element, or heating element location. Used to be that you plugged in a pot, put it on #6 or #7 max and the pot would melt evenly from bottom to top with out dripping or pouring out. It will be interesting to see how all this evolves. Maybe as a forum here, we should start looking into Lyman pots. Sometimes when the focus changes to a competitor, and the word gets out that the competition is putting out a better product, the original bread and butter company, gets a little worried and solves their lagging issues. However, I don't want this to turn into a bashing thread, more of a learning tool for all upcoming and us old time pourers. BTW has anyone ever used Lyman pots?

Rarely, but it does on occasion.

On distribution of the skirt. I band all of my skirts with a rubber collar first. Slide skirt and rubber collar onto jig. Distribute the skirt strands evenly. Wire tie, and then roll skirt band off and re-use next time.

Nice ties for your first ones. Maybe a bad pic, but when you tie, make sure you spread the skirt strands evenly around the jig head. It look more complete that way. The more you tie the better you will get at it.

On powder paint, you will have to teach yourself that less is more. Once you put your first coat of color on, re-heat your painted jig (do not burn the paint), take a fine artist brush and load it with paint I assume black paint). Then slowly tap the powder on the hot jig while rotating the jig. Keep the distance of about 9 -12" between the jig and the brush. This will keep the jig from grabbing too much paint as it falls. Also this will take some trial and error on your part, as you don't want to put on so much paint as to make blotches instead of speckles. Also on your speckled paint that you are going to use, make sure it is really dry, as clumpy heavy paint will not fall smoothly and cause blotching. Once I find the jig I painted this way I will post a pic. here. I still believe that powder paint is the best paint to use for lead jigs. Hands down, it is definitely more durable.

Slammingjack, like Smalljaw I have been getting my lead from Roto-Metals and have not had this problem. Prior to me getting my lead from there, I still have not had a problem and have been using all kind of free lead I could get. I will tell you one thing and that is the new Lee pots don't seem to get as hot as the old ones. Reason I say this is that I also get the bottom of the lead (on startup) melted first before the top part finally melts. In the mean time if I don't watch it, the bottom will empty while the top is still solid (never had this problem with my old pot). So unfortunately, I have to check occasionally so that doesn't happen. When I see the lead drip out like that on start-up, I take a screwdriver and stick it in the plunger slot and forcefully turn it while pushing down. This solves that problem. Also I found that the old magic #7 to #7-1/2 on the dial is not magic number anymore. I turn it up to #8, which seems to work better. This tells me that their elements are not running as hot as they used do. Which in turn doesn't make the lead hot enough to pour fluidly. The hotter you make that pot (you will see) the better it performs, However I don't suggest you run it at max. I also believe that each pot has its own set of problems, and also they are not all built like they used to be. I have (5 ) Lee IV pots, as 3 of them are spares. They are workhorses, and they all have their idiosyncrasies but I think you may have a bad pot. I too expressed my issues to the Lee people about their pots. Although helpful, they don't resolve my issues. On a final note, I have also been using an RCBS pot. Although expensive, they do run close to perfect. Let us know your final outcome.

Like LimpNoodle stated, and you can get them directly from Do-it Molds

Gone2long, I have been using Firefox for 2 years and am still having this problem sporadically. Looks like this morning it works any helpful suggestions? It would be nice to resolve this problem.

I just tried to quote and no luck. I've had this problem going on over a year, and I just gave up. It doesn't work for me. Tried it on three different computers as well as at work, no luck. Maybe someone can solve this for you.

What you can do to get a dull finish, is to take some really fine steel wool, and you can run it one direction which will give you an eve grain, along with a soft satin finish. Do not polish too long as you will take the plating off and get down to the brass mat'l. I am assuming these are high quality brass plated blades. You will not however get a white plating by doing this. The steel wool you want to use is (000) extra fine or (0000) super fine. These grades will dull yet not take off too much plating. On another note, you can use a silver mist powder paint on one surface. It looks like galvanized steel.

What is white silver? Are you referring to white on one side and silver on another?

Stick with the mold release it is 100% better than candle soot and 100% less messy. I've gone both routes and the latter is no comparison to mold release. I've done the tests and done trials, if you don't believe me try it for yourself. There is no comparison between the two. They use it in molds for bullets when they use really hard lead. You will find many guys this day and age using mold release, just for ease of use and it plainly just works.

Well, it looks like you're on your way. I have both brush jig molds, and from day one, I have had a hard time to get the jigs to release from the mold. I have found that it is the way the mold is made. They are not all alike. I have found the release spray to help some but still a lot of issues. Then I took an electric eraser and polished out the inside cavities of all the mold halves as well as the edges. 100% better. The abrasive in the eraser smoothed out a lot of minor imperfections. Finally, the more you use it the better the mold seems to get. So now I'm only 50% upset whenever I have to pour these. Good Luck and happy pouring.

Hope it all works out for you. Good luck, and if you run into problems post your questions, so we all can help you.

On your gold plating there is roughly a $75 to $100 lot charge for plating. It might be more or less in your area. So if you send them 100 or 1000 you will still have to pay the lot charge.

Skeeter is correct, same product newer package.

Also if you are just looking for straight stainless steel wire, you can find every grade you will ever need at McMaster Carr.

I use the mini muffin pans as well. It works great for my Lee IV pot as well. Chris, Wow a 1000 lbs, that will last you awhile.

I have tried D2T and Envirotex. For durability D2T hands down in my opinion is the best. I have dragged many jigs across lake bottoms, and the only abrasion I have seen, was the gloss of the D2T was worn off. Dragging jigs along rocks is a whole different story and nothing can withstand that. Also I like the one coat application. The only drawback to D2T, is when you put it on a white jig, it does subdue the white color. Now onto Envirotex (E-tex). As far as clarity all the colors and especially the white just pop. However, E-tex to me is softer and definitely needs 2 - 3 coats. I personally like D2T for my application and have no complaints. I can't comment on other clearcoats, as I( haven't used them.

I like the sawzall idea. Never thought of that. My sawzall has a big toothy blade that would rip through the lead. Good idea

Yes like a stick of butter. But like small jaw mentioned, use gloves and a pair of channel locks to hold the lead, as it will get very hot.