cadman

Here is the jig profile: Snootie Jig in 3/8 oz and a Owner #5304 Hook. Makes for a deadly combination. If you have never used these hooks, you don't know what you are missing. When I say that they are sharp, they are sharp. The nice thing about it, is that the jig comes in as small as 1/8 oz, and even it being that small, if you add a trailer, you can easily cast this combination. I like the smaller size for a more finesse type of presentation, as a jig that small, falls really slow. This presentation would only work in about 5 feet or less, as if you were fishing deeper, It would take too long for the jig to reach the bottom.

There is a lot of info on it in the wirebaits and the hardbaits forum. You will find more than you need to know if you search it out. Here is a quick rundown. I prefer Devcon 2 Ton (D2T). It is a two part equal mix epoxy, that you brush on the jigs head. It is self leveling and in 24 hours the finish is rock hard. There is also a product called E-tex (Enviro-tex lite). It is made for bar tops. It is also a two part epoxy and is not as hard as D2T, but it is clearer than D2T. I believe it also takes at least 24 hours to cure. They both work really well. I have used them both and no problems so far. Other will chime in for sure.

darkman, I will try to find a pic of it and post it here. I know there is a pic on my website, but I don't want to post the link here, as not to look like I'm soliciting business.

To add to this there are other places where you can buy powder paint in bulk. Usually $6-$12 per pound compared to $6/2 oz. I have been in the powder paint business along with sheet metal for along time, and all the powder paint that I have used about 40 brands are all excellent for powder painting jigs. I have used IVC, Sherwin Williams, Dupont, Tiger Drylac, Powdura, Tri-Mite, Herbie's Magic Dust and a whole bunch more and they all work fine. The best compound that seems to work is the TGIC powder, however you won't know that unless you ask the manufacturer. So you can buy in confidence from most places. I would buy based on price and quantity. The only drawback you will find is that if you are looking for a specific color, and it happens to be sold by CSI, then you probably won't find it anywhere else. Also remember you can buy Pro-tech powder directly from the manufacturer, as it will be cheaper than any on-line store.

I'm a little confused. Do you plan to use the solid rings for hooks? If so how are you going to put them on? On the solid rings, you can look at LPO, Jann's, Zeiners and Worth. They all should have solid rings. I can tell you this if you are buying small quantities, LPO and Zeiner's will usually have better shipping costs. I have bought like a $3 or $4 dollar item from these two places and asked if they could put it in a smaller package so I can save on shipping charges. Both of them were very accommodating and saved me easily $3 or $4 dollars in shipping. Other places will not do this they have a flat charge per zip code. So you're paying $11.00 for a $3 item.

No, they are not meant for that, as they are not strong enough and will pull open. I found these to be great for putting on small to medium sized blades on ball bearing swivels or barrel swivels. Like roadrunner blades, stand-up jigs or maybe small spinnerbaits. These are much easier to use than spilt rings for this application. Also if the blade gets stuck, you can usually get your jig back as the butt ring will open.

Parker, If you want to see a pic of the jig with the 5304 hook, Send me a PM.

Ahhh, I have been making my version of the Bitsy Bug for 7 years, because the original was soooo cheaply made. So I have found the perfect mold for this and have been pouring and making these since then. Your answer is the Do-It Snootie jig. The head profile and line tie are very similar to the original. Also since I like to fish very light jigs, the Mustad hook that is supposed to go in this mold works really well. But I have found the ultimate set-up in my mind. I now use the light Owner 5304 hooks, and they are so sharp, that looking at them will draw blood. In all honesty without all the hype, this is the best mold I found for what you are looking for. BTW, Welcome to TU

Pigslayer, Using a fluid bed, will put on nice even thin coats, if you don't keep a hot jig in the fluid bed too long. The fluid bed will also keep your powder paint fluffy. Remember one thing though and that is all powder paints aren't created equal, and they all will not work perfectly in a fluid bed. So you will have to work at it, but excellent results are achievable. One other note on the crackle paint. If you want all those colors, like red, green and purple, you can also use candy color powder paint from Protech. Just make sure you put it on thin as the candy powder paint has a tendency to run if applied too thick.

The wire form that fits in the Do-It mold is (.032 to .0325)

fishhook, Why don't you post all of your jig and spinnerbait questions in the Wirebait Section. This way you will get quicker responses, and you'll get to meet all the guys there.

Whether it is a closed loop or an open "R" std size is (.040) based on many manufacturers.

Wow now it works today. I am going to go through some of the Firefox settings to see if AI can solve this. If I do I will let you know.

Those look custom made. If you have the Do-It mold, than Do-It sells them or you can get them at Zeiners. BTW welcome to TU

Kayser Lure sells them in bulk by the 1000 count. They are located in Ursa ,IL. You will have to e-mail them to see if they will send to Mexico. That I don't know for sure. Here is their link. http://www.kayserlure.com/products.html

Why is it that I cannot quote or multi-quote anyone's posts? This is really annoying to me. I am running windows 7 (64 bit). I am using Firefox as my browser. I only have this problem on this site. There are on occasions, that I will be able to do it once maybe twice a month and it's sporadic. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

huntermiwi, You can make that mold work fine and flash if any will be minimal. I've yet to find a mold that I cannot make some small modification to make a hook fit with-in reason. As for your question about the mold and the hooks you want to use. File out the hook eye post on 1/2 of the mold. What this will do is position the hook on 1/2 of the mold, and when you close the mold, the other mold half with the post still intact will hold the hook eye in place. Now if it is still too loose, you can build up the hook eye opening with gold permatex silicone. It is the high temp. By doing this, it will also hold the hook in place. As far as flash goes, if you get flash below the jig collar, it is a matter of taking some side cutters and gently squeeze and rotate them, and the flash will fall off. If you are worried about lead filling in by the hook eye, you can fill both side with permatex high temp, let it cure, trim off any excess, and then start pouring. The nice thing about the permatex, is that you can easily peel it off when you're done. Many of us on here that sell jigs have to improvise, and there are a lot of guys on here that do that to make things happen. This small modification can be done by anyone this is not really complicated. The only negative thing I see about the hook in the end cavity, is that the hook is really too small for that cavity. The hook bend is too close to the jig collar. However on another note, there are guys that like it that close, as this makes the fish grab the jig further up, thus hooking it better. There are all kind of options.

Anglinarcher beat me to it. BTW Archer excellent info. I will tell you this Black_Blade I totally agree with AArcher about the stupidity of the lead ban. I don't want to get into a heated argument here, But I totally disagree with the banning of lead. Here in IL, it came up for vote on banning lead 4 times already, and a petition was sent out to all parties to sign, so we could send to congress or whom ever to stop it. So far we are fortunate that every time it went for vote it failed. So hopefully our signed petitions made a difference, I know you have no choice now, but when things like this come up, people need to get involved.

You can pour bismuth or bismuth and tin mix. They pour very well and make excellent quality jigs or weights without any bad pours. It has a lower melting point than lead, however the jigs are extremely hard, and if you have any flash, it is very sharp. I have been pouring bismuth jigs for the guys on the east coast. You can buy bismuth mix from Roto-Metals. Bismuth is about $20/ pound, so it will cost you. I also believe that Bismuth is 1/4 lighter than lead, so you will have to make bigger jigs to compensate for the smaller lead ones. One other thing and that is painting. If you powder paint, you will have to reduce your heating temp and increase your heating time, otherwise you will melt your jigs. There's a guy on here by the name of Hawn Jigs, he will hopefully chime in, as he has been doing this for a long time and knows his lead-free stuff as well. http://www.rotometals.com/Bismuth-s/4.htm Also see their alloy page as this will explain a lot of things to you.

1/8 oz = 2.0 mey (3d)........1.5 ey (2d) 1/4 oz = 2.0 mey (3d)........2.0 ey (2d) 3/8 oz = 2.5 mey (3d)........2.0 ey (2d) 1/2 oz = 2.5 mey (3d)........2.0 ey (2d) 3/4 oz = 2.5 mey (3d)........2.5 ey (2d)

This is hard to explain. The best way to visualize this is going on You Tube and look at some videos on tying flies. The way I start is like this: You will need thread and a bobbin. A bobbin is a tool that holds the spool of thread on snugly, which then you thread the thread through the neck of the bobbin out the other end. Before this you should have your skirt tabs banded with a skirt band collar, makes it easier to put on and stay in place. Also if you want to cut the tab ends, it will make it easier as well. #1 All your tying is going to be on the neck of the jig. Jigs with round ball collars work best for tying thread, as there are no obstructions of the deep double collars in the way. #2 Lay your thread, tag end at the head of the jig, with the bobbin holding the thread at the end by the ball. Hold the thread in place with your finger. As you start making your first wrap, overwrap the thread along the collar and start wrapping the thread working up the collar to the head. You should now have nice tight wraps. You can go down and up again but that is up to you. #3 Now take your banded skirt tabs, and slide them over the hook point and close to the jig collar. Make sure you skirt strands are even. If you like the way they look on your hook shank, slide the entire skirt with the band over the jig collar. At this point you should have your threaded bobbin hanging at the head of your jig, and your skirt also snug up against the head of your jig. #4 Adjust you skirt accordingly, and then take your bobbin with your thread, and fish it through the strands, and then make 4 or 5 tight wraps over the skirt strands holding your bobbin tight. This will keep the strands from moving, slowly roll your rubber skirt collar down past the jig collar but not off of the hook shank. This will keep your skirt strands held in place, in case you screw it up and have to roll the skirt back up onto to jig collar. #5 Now just continue to make even tight wraps going down the jig collar towards the bottom. #6 Now continue to wrap going back up. #7 Now you can add your flash,by wrapping it up and down. You're done. #8 I like to finish at the top of the jig with my thread, so I can tie it off at the top. #9 I like to use 2 sets of 3 whip finishes( see You Tube and type in whip finish or Materelli whip finish tool) to tie off and lock my thread wraps in place. #10 When done, I trim the thread off of my bobbin close to my jig, I also trim off my original tag end I started with. It should look good. Then I take some head cement, and apply it over all the thread wraps to keep it from coming undone. #11 Let dry then fish There is a lot to take in here, it is best you look at some videos, as it will be easier to understand. This will definitely take a lot of practice, so don't worry if you screw it up. Practice makes perfect. Also remember this is the way I do it. There are a million ways to tie, and everyone has their own way, so don't get hung up doing it my way. Some guys like to put the tinsel on first or vice versa, depends on what look you want. That is up to you. Your creations will be endless This is just a start. Also a fly tying vice will be a necessity here, as sometimes it looks like you will need 3 hands and 15 fingers. Good Luck. Others will hopefully chime in and add more info, which will make you more confused. It all takes a lot of practice.

I am not at home right now so I can't measure them. I have a chart at home. PM me your e-mail and I will send you the chart. Note: The sizes I have are eyes made by WTP. These are the only ones I use since they are the only ones that I have found that stick really well without moving, when I apply epoxy.

One other thing, and that on the pic on my mold, you will see a milled out groove at the nose of the first four cavities, this was custom cut for me and is not on the original mold when bought new.

The Owner 5304 hooks will fit in that mold except the 2 smallest cavities, where the hook shank touches the cavity wall. Heat the hook and put a kink in the shank and it will fit fine. Pic below shows 5/0-1/0 hooks in mold consecutively from biggest to smallest. Mold halves close on all hooks in mold. 2/0 hook will not fit in the 1/8 oz cavity but a 1/0 will. Also if you look around you will find better mold and hook prices along with some reasonable shipping costs.

Tim if the 1st picture and statement is correct above, you can kink the hook shank near the leg by the eye, and the hook shank will pull away from the wall of the mold and collar, which will make it fit fine and pour perfectly. The only thing is you might be trapping air with the larger hook shank in the mold, so I would suggest filing out a little more space, where the hook shank sits by the mold collar.