cadman

Mark, I saw this as well. It is a good deal, however he wants to sell it as a lot. I can use some things but not everything.

You can also use it to tie skirts on jigs or spinnerbaits. If it's the soft stainless.

I haven't used a lot of it until recently. I only put in dry craws, worms and lizards. I don't know if that matters or not, but I've don't have a problem with it. I keep my bottle in my plastics bag, and that sits in the sun, but the bottle is never exposed to the sun. So I can't say. Best to call the manufacturer as stated above.

Clean your molds with mineral spirits or paint thinner. I will PM you with where to buy it and the best prices and shipping.

Here is my input on powder painting and fluid beds. First a couple of questions #1 are you only trying to apply 1 color? #2 in your fluid bed is the powder in there 1 color or did you mix two colors. #3 are you applying one complete color to the jig and then going back and putting your jig in a second fluid bed with a different color? I'm asking these questions because there are several processes here that might help. #1 if you are just using 1 color in your fluid bed, let's say white, and that is the only color on your jig, then you should not have a problem getting even and good coverage if your jig is hot. #2 If you want to do a two color jig, let's say the bottom is white and the top is ylw chart. I would not advise to do the second color in a fluid bed, because the jig won't be hot enough to grab the paint. So this is what I would do. These are only suggestions, so don't shoot the messenger. Others on this site have their way of making mutli-color jigs and whatever works for them that's all that matters. #1 heat your jig, and then dip the entire jig into the fluid bed that has the white. Make sure you get good coverage, and the jig glosses over. #2 take your hot jig, and re-heat it (don't burn the paint). Now sprinkle on your second color over the white, wherever you want. Do this until you get the desired results you want. Reheat the jig, and you will see the colors will melt (blend, fuse) together, making everything look smooth. This is what you want. You're done with one jig, repeat this process for the next 500. LOL Now back to your question.You did mention that the bottom of the jig did not get covered. The first thing that comes to mind, is that you were not rotating your jig to get even heat coverage. When you heat your jig, rotate it all around with your forceps, and count out the number of seconds, so you know what to do on the next jig. Each jig the bigger it is the more time it will need in the heat to get good paint coverage or adhesion. This is really all about practicing and finding the correct heat and time ratio before you swirl your jig in the powder paint. BTW, unless you have bad paint (which I doubt), I use paint from 20 to 30 different manufacturers, and they all work . Some are more troublesome than others, but you have to play with them to find what works.

As mentioned, there are many variables here. I think (don't quote me) but almost every mold Do-It sells, has "use soft lead". So although this does help on some hard to pour molds, this is not the only solution. I am a firm believer in first and foremost, is to clean your mold and spray drop out. This has solved many problems for me in the years past. Secondly, everything has to be hot and I mean really hot. Lastly, when these variables are met, I feel the final problem, many guys have is trapped air. If you are pouring too fast this will happen. However to solve this problem you will have to put in the time to see what each mold does. None of this is magic, but every mold that I have, has its quirks on each day. Now if you use the hooks stated, you can get air pockets, if you are using hooks thinner then stated, the problem usually corrects itself. With this said, I disagree with just pouring pure lead. Now this is my opinion, so take it for what it's worth. I usually pour 70-75% hard and 30-25% soft. I like this ratio, however this is not for everyone. I like all my jigs on the harder side. I only have one mold that will not pour my lead mix, and that is the Ultra Minnow spinnerbait. I think it is a mold issue, but since the soft lead works, I move on. The key to a lot of this is to write down what each of your mold quirks are. For example mold xxx, tilt forward at 20 degrees and stick sprue hole of mold onto pot spout in 1/8 oz cavity. This may seem like a lot of work, but it is your starting point for the next time you pour, as you know it worked well like this last time. This will keep you from constantly doing trial and error. In the end it's all about trying everything when you pour. There are days, when nothing goes right for me, and I shut it down and start fresh the next day. It usually solves my dilemma. Happy Pouring.

On, soldering hooks, yes you can do that, but it won't work. If you weld them that is a different story, but you will change the temper of the hook, maybe making it too brittle. Now the reason the soldering won't work, is anything you solder together, as soon as you pour the lead in will melt into the lead. So soldering will work for positioning the hook in your mold, but once the hot lead pours in the mold with the soldered hooks they will melt into each other. On the flip side, this might work, if you have a hook and eye that will not pull out. Now on the eye that I was going to recommend as a separate entity, see pic below. This eyelet will never pull out. Any eye that has the tag ends bent at 90 degrees will work. Also depending on how much work you want to do, you can make your own hook and eyelet and then cut them into your mold. However this is rather tedious. I will post an example here either tomorrow or Monday on how to do that.

As far as I know, those hooks are not available. I checked with Shorty's, and they said that those are a custom run. I'm sure you don't need 10,000 hooks, as they will run it for you on a custom basis. However, you can modify your mold to use an offset worm hook, and then buy a eyelet and incorporate that in your mold and then pour.

Custom made CNC mold. I don't know of any others. Or you can take a std. Do-It mold bell sinker and modify the part at the top , so instead of putting in an eyelet or barrel swivel, you can put in the drop-shot line grip swivel or(pineapple). I know of several guys that did this and it works just fine.

Mark, I can always count on you to make me laugh. You are just too funny.

For all of you that know me and know of the situation when it happened, I do not wish to make this public on this forum. At the time I have told a few close members on here, what transpired. With that said, I do not want to rehash this all over again and stir up trouble. So for those that know please do not post here, for those that don't, I am not going to go in detail, so don't ask. What happened , is already done, please respect my wishes and let's move on. Thanks

I remember speaking about this idea with a former TU member. He brought it to my attention, and I thought it was a great idea. I tried it, really liked it and I heavily promoted it here to all the members on TU. At the time I was selling them as well. Several weeks later I remember selling them to a woman I did not know, and I found out later who she was working for. Then the company started to sell them. A very sore subject with me, but life moves on. I will not promote their business. I guess most guys, would only like the acknowledgement or someone to say, hey you have a great idea, I would like to sell these. But it doesn't work like that in the real business world.

I use, a 3" piece of coated seven strand, fold it in half and stick it in the weedguard hole and glue it in with epoxy. You can also use heavy monofilament or fluro-carbon line. That will do the same trick.

Yes, it will take Mustad 32786,Eagle Claw L111BP EWG and Owner 5304 Deep throat, plus a few others others

PM sent

I totally agree with you. I was just curious. Like I mentioned I don't condone anyone to do this as I wouldn't want this done to me.

Curt, I think this would be pretty hard to prove in court if you were called on this. Let's say you charge $10.99 shipping and the bait is free. I believe as long as you have your orders and receipts marked as such to the customer, who can say what your intentions are. There is always speculation, but that is all just speculation. Also at that price point or whatever you charge for shipping, are you going to give away a lot of baits? Don't know. Disclaimer: I am writing this just as a matter of fact. I don't want anyone on here to use my post as a "He said". Do not do this as it is not legal to sell other people's copied products as your own idea. I also would like to get someone's input on this as well. I'm sure no one in their right mind will give legal advice here. I just curios as well.

As strange as this sound, there is your loophole.

Yes, I do the entire jig head. Don't do the collar or the double collar. I saw your PM, I will e-mail the info to you later tonight.

I paint and clearcoat thousands of jigs with eyes standing them up as previously shown and it is the fastest way to do jigs. I rarely have any runs. D2T when mixed is thick, as it sits it gets thicker to the point of where you can't brush it any more. You will only be able to do maybe 10 jigs at a time before you can't brush the D2T. The way you mentioned to lay it down and do one side at a time, is not a good idea. Do the entire jig and let it dry. Less handling, means less fish eyes on the epoxy.

Yes, apply the D2T with a brush. it is self leveling. Do not put on too much as it will drip. The picture below shows how I apply my epoxy and let it dry. Picture does not show applied 3d eye or epoxy. If you don't apply too much it will never run. If it does, it will run down the hook shank. The finish once it is done is just simply beautiful. If you want to see some pics, PM me your e-mail, I don't want to post pics here, as I have a business and don't want anyone to think I am advertising on here.

I buy Worth bearings as well and never had a bad bearing. Plus you can buy direct from them as well.

Hey psv, Long time no talk. Those are simply, fantastically beautiful .Job well done.

Mark, You can't sell the 6 sided coffin blades anymore. They are trademarked or something like that by "Z" man. You can have them custom made though and have seen a lot of different and custom sizes for all applications.

Like BassBull mentioned, "O" rings are not a good choice for a permanent solution. If you want to use "O" rings to h0old the tabs in place while you hand tie, then that is an ideal application, as you can easily roll them off once you are done tying.