cadman

There was a write up I did regarding this. Bob La Londe is correct. You have to get permission from any school official and or Major League team to use their logo. Now if you are just going to make them for yourself or "Give" a few away to your friends that is not a problem. You "CANNOT " sell them. Any logo that is not exclusively yours is simply" Not Yours". I made some Chicago sports team logos on some spinnerbaits awhile ago, which I gave away as gifts. Like mentioned here, decal paper a printer, fixative and an image is all you need to do this.

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x2 to what Jig Man said. I always tell anyone that has problem with pouring any mold. That is forget smoking molds, talc and everything else and apply Drop-Out to your mold. It really works and you won't be sorry. Lasts for several 100 pours.

Yes, that is correct. There are a lot of ways people do weedguards for themselves. I have yet to see good looking jigs that are powder painted and baked with the weedguards poured in place. It also depends on how you want your jigs to look. Since I sell my jigs (I only use powder paint) I take a lot of pride in my work, I will not make sloppy looking jigs. But this is just me. The fish really don't care. On your second question. I am assuming you are referring to skirt strands? If so, I myself find it easier to put rubber collars on my skirt tabs and then slide them on the jig. Once on the jig, I arrange the strands so they look equal. Once I like what I see I wrap the skirt with wire. When that is all tight and done, I roll off the rubber collar to use again for another time.

I take a couple of strands off. Also I find it easier to put the weedguard in the weedguard hole loose strands first. Reason being, the fused end is flared out and many times doesn't want to slide in as easily. If you put it in loose strands first, the strands are all nice and straight. Once the weedguards are fully dry, take some side cutters and cut the fused part off. This is the way I do it and it works for me.

I get a lot of ziplock bags from Hobby Lobby, Michaels or Jo Ann Fabrics. You can buy them in bulk and they are very reasonable. If you watch the sales, you can get 40 - 50 % off per week. Sizes, I know for sure there are at least 6 sizes. I don't know the sizes off hand.

Anglinarcher, Talking to a chemist, you can not put bright nickel in powder paint. The color is always subdued. Now you can get them chrome plated, but the cost is very expensive. I will never say never, but currently I have not found the perfect chromed in powder paint, So your only choice is plating.

Wow, those are very nice. I like the clean paint job and smooth transitions. You take a lot of pride in your work?

Pete, If you are looking for chrome like a car bumper, than you only have (2) options. Get it bright nickel plated or just clear coat over your newly poured shiny lead head. If you want a glossy silvery color, Pro-Tec silver looks pretty good or Caswell's Extreme Chrome. But the last two mentioned are glossy silver and do not look like real chrome.

Your pot is probably a Lyman. When I start having problems with cavities not filling, I always start with gapping the mold and work from there. Thanks for the compliment on my jigs.

Welcome to TU. Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) and Envirotex Lite (E-tex) are both epoxies. That means that there is two parts to mix. Both need to be mixed in equal parts. Devcon is thicker and starts to cure faster, however you only have to put on one coat. E-tex is more runny and needs to have several coats put on. Both need at least 24 hours to fully cure and harden, maybe longer

What kind of bottom pour pot do you have? I have a couple of Lee IV's and a RCBS, and on occasion the Lee gives me headaches sometimes. I also have (2) hot pots, and they always pour consistently, reason being is they heat a lot hotter than the bottom pours. The only problem I have with a hot pot is the weight of it and it is a little dangerous if you over pour especially if you are going to use this to pour all day long. You really have to pay attention to what you're doing if you use the hot pot. I am betting that your lead is not hot enough, just a guess. You know what you are doing, so this is not your first time. Also I will bet since you are not getting lead down to the collar, either the lead is cooling too fast, or you have air trapped. Definitely try putting a piece of tape or a business card between the mold halves, close and pour. See if that helps.

Sonoman, You seem like you have poured in the past, so this is not a new venture for you. What is not completely pouring? Head, collar? Also you mention the word warm. The lead and the mold should be hot to very hot so you can't touch the mold. Here are some of my thoughts on some things to try. Do not take this as a personal attack on you. These are just ideas to try to solve your problem. #1 I don't know why guys continue to smoke molds when there is a 100% better solution. Try Drop-Out it is to mold pouring like a teflon pan is to non-stick eggs. I've never had any good luck with a smoked mold, plus it's messy with all the soot on the mold. #2 Gap that mold until you get complete pours, then back off until you get no flash. If you are getting better pours, then you need to put air vents in the mold. #3 Hot lead, hot mold and warm to hot jigs. Not warm but hot. #4 Try pouring with the mold sprue hole shoved up against the pot pouring spout if you have a bottom pour. #5 Finally pour it with a ladle to see if that works. Maybe your pot flow rate is too slow or too fast and you are getting air pockets. Everything else seems in order. I have both of these molds and they pour flawlessly. Start again with some of these suggestions. There are sooooo many more variables, I can't write them all down.

I twist it until it is tight, then cut the tag ends to about 1/8" long and then just bend it towards the hook shank. That's it.

Yes I use the vice for tying with thread. At one time I tied all my bass jigs with thread. Then as time went on I experimented with tying with wire and found it held silicone skirting material just as well as thread, and also it was a lot faster. Time is money for me. Also there is a tutorial I put out on TU on how I hand tie with wire. If you can't fine it PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you. You also have a PM from me.

I have the same vice smalljaw has, the Griffen Oddysey. If you are going to tie with thread then you need a vice, if you are wire tying a bass jig with copper wire and a silicone skirt, you can tie all of that in your hand. No need for a vice.

Depends on the jig if I'm doing jigs with 2D or 3D eyes than it is D2T if jigs with no eyes gel super glue like Gon2long

Walleyetracker, Yes the r stands for red. Also if you want to go to a really sharp and strong hook, Try the Matzuo Sickle bend hooks, they come in red as well. I have heard very good things about those hooks. Also remember that the red doesn't stay on forever. It will turn eventually gold as it wears off.

walleyetracker, PM me your e-mail address. It is easier to send you a chart than to explain all of this.

walleyetracker, I have the Do-It live bait mold LBS-6-A. This one does have the loop for the stinger hook. If you are going to buy one then buy this one. Because you can also pour it without the loop. This will give you a dual purpose mold. Also you do not have to use the hook recommended. You can use a 570 hook which is a standard Aberdeen longer shank jig hook. I always fished this two ways when I fished for walleye on the river. One rod in my hand had the jig with a fathead minnow on and the stinger hook, and the other rod just had the jig with a fathead. I then determined on the river which one to use all day. If the walleye were striking it short, than I would use the stinger, if not I would use it without a stinger. I will tell you that if you use a stinger hook and live fathead minnows, it did hamper the lively action of the minnow. The best decision on which one to use was let the fish tell you what is happening. One other thing also, was that I always like the longer hook with the live bait. The hook it calls for to me was too short.

walleye tracker I have this mold at home. I will check it out later tonight for you. If you have any exact questions ask and I will post answer later for you. I used to be a walleye fisherman and this was my go to jig.

The wire will be copper colored wire. Usually 24 Ga. or 22 Ga. No it will not rust. You'll lose the jig before the wire rusts.

Go to Michaels, Hobby Lobby or Jo Ann fabrics. You can get almost any color and a wide variety of gauges also the price is very reasonable.

Shorty's hooks usually has the best prices on those hooks in bulk. However check out LPO. You get free shipping with orders over $150.00 and their shipping is super fast.

I use the McMaster Carr stainless steel Spring Steel wire. It works really well. The current Do-It wire is (.0115 to .012). So if you want a less springy weedguard wire go up several wire diameters. I might have some different diameters at work, that I could send you as a sample to see what you want to buy. It will have to wait till Monday though. PM me your mailing info if you are interested.