cadman

Depends on what mold you get, but there are several of them that will accept both. So you will have the best of both worlds. I use both style of hooks. Both hooks styles work depends on how you set the hook and which one you are more comfortable fishing.

Smalljaw good info as well. There is so much technical stuff with powder paint, that I try not post too much. Most of the powder paint that is painted in the industry has very clear specs that have to be followed. We also made painted panels for the military and aerospace. Talk about anal. These guys checked everything from powder paint thickness to hardness with a 2H pencil, to gloss and sheen. If it didn't pass by the source inspector, then you had to fix it. If you kept failing, then you lost the contract. But that is the government. So we all do the best we can. After all only we're only making fishing jigs and this should be fun.

Me too. I see they raised some of their prices. All in all with their selection and prices, pretty hard to beat.

So Boy Wonder, I assume you Wonder what the answer is to your question.In sheet metal. The metal part is put on a table, rack, or hook where there is an electric charge, that transfers to the part. The electric charge then draws the powder paint usually from an air operated spray gun to the part which as you move the gun (like an air brush only lot bigger)until you cover the part with paint completely. There is a way to gauge how much paint must be put on the part and how much is on it , but I don't know how they do that. Once the part is painted it usually goes on a conveyor to a big walk in oven, which as it starts from one end, it is timed so that when it reaches the other end it has the correct baking time. The oven we had was 9 feet tall, 9 feet wide and 20 feet long. It is pretty cool to watch. Anyway as it exits the oven it cools and then they take the part off, exam it, inspect it and then pack it. So no need to wonder anymore Boy Wonder. Holy Powder Paint Boy Wonder I think I've answered the riddle

I can't tell you for sure without calling them up, as I don't remember. However attached is a sheet from Dupont on some of the types of powder paint out there and their applications. Mind you this powder like all other is really supposed to be applied electrostatically. Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf Dupont Technical_Guide.pdf

Wow I thought I'm the only one that went to extremes with powder paint. I totally agree with everything you said. I also work with powder paints and steel. I, like you, have to make sure that the powder paint adheres to our product. You are correct in stating that "almost" all powder paint is applied electrostatically. The only exception is guys like us that put it on our jigs because lets face it, it is durable and better than any other alternative. We get spec sheets for every paint color and from every manufacturer on the ideal time and temp for the correct hardness. However there are different powder blends for different applications, and some epoxies, hybrids or TGIC's are better for some things and are not as good for others. Your testing of jigs is beyond compare, however most guys probably won't invest in the testing time. I too have gone your route of testing, however my dilemma is that I have several colors on my jigs from different manufacturers, so I came up with the numbers I posted. Not possible to come up with an exact time with all those colors. With that said even if guys are off a little, and there jigs aren't as hard as they could be per specs, most fish wouldn't care, and we would lose them before too long. Thank god we aren't making jigs for the military, because they would all fail without doing a thorough test on them. I really like your write-up.

Timbass, Welcome to TU and your first thread. You might want to post what heat temp are you using, duration of how long your jig is in the heat and what color. This would help all get an idea of what you are doing, and give guys that use Pro-tec some insight. I see that dlaery posted a cure temp chart for Pro-tec paints, that is a good place to start. However I do not follow that chart at all. Reason being is that I rarely use Pro-tec ( cost is very high) because I use many other different powder paint brands, along with that I do multi-color jigs (like in my avatar) so what temp do I use? Well I came up with my own temp and it works for all the powder paint I put on my jigs. 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes. There are many variables as well. I found candy paints have a tendency to run if heated too long. Some powders need more heat to cross link the polymers. Anyway your powder should not be dull if it is a gloss powder. Maybe your toaster oven is too hot and burning the powder. You should check the output temp your toaster is putting out with an accurate thermometer. This is the only way you will know for sure. JMO

Felix, Welcome to TU. Are you the same guy I spoke to on BR? Anyway I use Fire Fox at work and have not had any problems so far. I see they have a new webpage layout.

Dutchman, Weedless Casting Jig in some catalogs is known as a Grass Jig. I make these for my nephew he fishes these exclusively he loves them and does really well. I have fished these as well and like them. However I still like my Snootie 1st, tied for 2nd or 3rd would be a Poison Tail or the Grass (Casting jig) You have a PM from me.

Painter, The more you pour the more you will find that there isn't one answer to every problem. I can pour the same mold three days in a row, and many times I have to do something different each day. I am a strong believer that humidity plays a big part in lead pouring as well. It's nice to have a forum where you can get so many various answers to your questions, with so many people having different solutions . On another day of pouring you may have to do something else to get good pours. Unfortunately that's the nature of the beast. Even two identical molds pour differently as I have had that experience as well. Anyway glad it all worked out for you and Happy Pouring.

Are we talking flat eye or regular eye? What size head and what style? Need a little bit more info to get you a correct answer.

Mark, You are absolutely correct. Definitely some probs with the Gen 1 Revo Supremes. I bought them at the time for $100 each. I will have to look into the new Revos.

Wow, I'm late to the ballgame, and new nothing about this until I started searching forums on this site today. A couple of weeks back I saw a picture of Curt-RI on this forum, and I thought to myself who is this guy that Jerry brought in. Unfortunately I did not read under his description that he was TU Admin. So now I get it, man am I months too late. So first off I want to welcome Curt. I among many others have been long time members here and wish you the best. When I was younger, I hated change especially at my job. I was an engineer that did drawings on the board. Then computers came a long and I fought it so hard that I didn't want to change. One of my colleagues told me that if I don't embrace it I will not be working in this field as things change whether you like it or not. As a couple of years went on I struggled with designing as I loved drawing on the board and was very good at my job. However thanks to that colleague, I did embrace drawing on the computer and to this day that is all I do and I love doing it and would never go back drawing on the board. To make a long story short change is inevitable and whether we like it or not it will happen. Let's embrace it and see how everything turns out. Curt I'm glad you're on board, and looking forward to some changes on this site. I will say that I used to be a die hard customer of Stamina back in the day, and then things slowly fell apart. I do like the way LPO is handling things and now I buy all my Owner #5304 hooks from you guys among other items. To Jerry, Although you and I have never met at any of the TU meets in Clinton, MO, we have spoken several times via e-mail. I wish you and your family the best, and hope everything is Ok with you. Thanks for running this site for such a long time. I met a lot of good people here, which I still keep in touch with. Take Care Jerry and don't be a stranger.

On the lips, if you have a profile, send me the drawing, and I can have a friend of mine get you a price. Also need quantities. I can't help you with the bait bodies.

Thanks I got what I wanted.

BJBarron, Are you looking for design work, or someone to cut parts for you. I may know someone to design polycarb and cut it for you, however to make it economical, it would have to be in big quantities.

lbslures I have found this method the easiest for me, without the weedguard strands all flared out.

I have (3) gen 1 Revo Supremes, and I love them as well. The first one I bought had some problems with it, but I returned it and since then bought 2 more.

If you don't use your fluid bed daily, I would take the powder out of the cups and put them in a closed container. Powder paint will absorb moisture. Do not leave powder paint in your cups for an extended time.

As far as fluid bed media goes, you can use all kinds. I have found that over the years one media does not work for all colors. You can use lunch bags, computer paper , vacuum cleaner bags, allergy pillow cases , Tyvek bags from the Post Office and finally you can buy the media from CSI. All will work at some point and time. You will have to experiment to see which one works for your specific color(s). All powder paint does not have the same density as some are heavier than others, the same holds true for different powder paint brands.

Pro-Tec is not the only powder paint out there. There are many companies however you will have to buy them buy the pound. However if you buy them by the pound, you will save money and you will also have enough powder if you choose to use a fluid bed, which will make one color application go really fast A couple come to mind are , Columbia, Dupont, Sherwin Williams, Tiger Drylac, IVC and many more. I also sent you a PM.

If it's a Lee bottom pour, then as far as I know they all drip when new. It seems as mine got older, it doesn't drip at all. Mine are about 7-8 years old. The easiest thing to do, is to put a small can under the nozzle to contain the drip while pouring. Others may have a better solution. The other thing you could do if you are right handed, is wear a glove on your left hand , the one that would hold the mold. Your right hand would operate the lever. This would also protect your left hand in case you over pour in the cavity closest to the mold handles.

I pour a football head for a customer in 3/8 oz and a 1/0 hook. He catches a boatload of fish on that jig. I don't know what you mean by the fish couldn't get the hook in their mouth. Can you explain. As far as color goes, I custom match all my special powder paints. Are you looking to buy powder paint or something else. "FS is unfortunately out" what is FS and what does this statement mean?

Shorty's has some left, depending on which ones you are looking for. Ones with the little clips or the ones that fit into a Do-It mold. Word has it that they were told to stop selling them and can not sell them. So it might be an issue with patents.

BlueBird, That is the whole purpose of Drop-Out or the other mold releases the guys mentioned here. Spray it on and you don't need to smoke the molds anymore. Just my opinion, but smoking the mold has never worked for me and it is very messy, getting all that black soot all over your hands and everything else you touch. Mold release in my opinion, is the only way to go in this day and age and it works 100's times better than smoking a mold ever did. Try it and you will never go back to smoking molds.