cadman

The EC L2724 measures 2.032 long. I don't have the Mustad version so I can't measure it. You may have a custom hook someone had made.

My error. Smalljaw is 100% correct. I forgot about the 32724 hook. I just measured one and it is .046 wire diameter with a .665 hook bend. I believe it still is a 3/0, because I check the 4/0 and it was too long. The hook I mentioned 32886 is way too thick for what you have shown above.

The hook is a 30 degree hook. Either a 3/0 Mustad 32886 BLN or a 3/0 EC 3886. The Eagle Claw is an identical replacement for it, and the new Eagle Claws are sharp and cheaper in price. The hook I measured is an EC 3/0 with a .057 wire diameter. My hook at the bend .772, slightly over 3/4". The lengths were identical You mentioned .046 is that the wire diameter??

Rodney, Yes it is a Chompers, custom made for them.

If you can post a pic, we might be able to help you. Your question is pretty vague to me.

Hard to answer this question. Are the hooks bronze? If so and they have been sitting in damp conditions could be surface rust. Are you saying they change color when you bake the jig?????????

Just my guess is that it would make the inline spinner too stiff looking or maybe like mentioned if the hook is not inline perfectly it would throw off the vibration????? Finally just another wild guess, maybe with the hook dangling, when the fish hits the bait, it would have an easir chance of getting hooked with a flopping hook. These are all just brainstorming guesses. I really don't know.

Definitely x2.

Yes you could use heat shrink tubing. You can bridge the tubing over the shank of the treble hook and over the loop and onto the lure body shank. Then heat in horizontal position and wait for tubing to cool and harden. The thing I don't know is if this will affect the way the inline spinnerbait runs in the water. It may roll and not look natural. Try it and let us know.

DJR, A 3" diameter cup based on my plans holds about 4-6 ounces of powder give or take. As far as brands go, most guys use Pro-Tec (CSI) powder paint however they are very expensive especially if you are going to be using it for a fluid bed. 2 oz of Pro-Tec is about $6 - $7. You can use any brand of powder paint you can find. Some are better than others. Try to stay with an industrial powder as they are known for their quality. I personally use very little Pro-Tec paint again reason being cost. Soooo there are companiess like PPG, Sherwin Williams, Dupont and so on. As far as the lead-free jigs, anyone that pours them is going to be using bismuth or bismuth tin mix. Unfortunately, bismuth has a lower melting temp than lead. So on the 1/64 oz or smaller, I am going to say you should hand paint, air brush or spray paint with a can, and then clear coat the jig with an epoxy for durability.

I have borrowed some from a friend. They pour fine, only thing I don't like about them is the handles. Hard on the hands if you pour a lot of jigs with them.

I like cork hands down. I never liked the soft EVA foam(I think that's what it was) and the new hard foam to me feels cold in the hands.

EC cross over number for a Mustad 32786BLN is EL 2786. You can verify this with Cap'n Hooks and Shorty's

Barry, Here is a helpful read from some members trials (click link below). I was told that the paint stripper that I use "Parks" from Lowes or Home Depot is unavailable now. I have a gallon of it, so I am sure another strong paint stripper (remover) should work just as good. The one I had took about an hour for unbaked painted jig and 2-3 hours on baked painted jigs. If you have 20 or 30 jigs, put them in a glass bowl cover them with stripper and leave overnight. In the morning the paint will be gone. Then just take your raw jigs and clean them with soap and water and let dry thoroughly. http://www.tackleund...paint +stripper Barry if you can delete and post your vinyl paint pic in the for sale section please do, otherwise they will delete your post. All pics of baits and anything for sale or trade must be posted in the correct forums.

Barry, As far as beer or your favorite bourbon or 151 Rum, this alcohol is grain alcohol, and I do not believe it will take off the paint off of your painted jigs. The reason I said I'm not sure, because I've never tried it. Someone posted here awhile ago, that denatured alcohol does work, again I can't comment on that since I have never tried that either. I have used a liquid paint stripper, and that does work.

Joe, No problem glad to be of some help.

Attaced are the pics of the mold (WR-9-A) by Do-It that the Dutchman was referring to for those of you who are curious on what it looks like . I posted his pics for him.

Joe, I sent you a PM with my e-mail. If you can't get to post the pics. E-mail me a pic of the inside of the cavity and the pull pin, separate pics, and I will post them for you here, to show everyone what your questions are all about.

Joe, I see that mold is still available and just as I suspected it has a similar pull pin to the molds that I have. I am also going to guess that all of the worm weight cavities are horizontal or parallel to the length of the mold halves. With that said, you are pulling the pull pin through the mold and through the entire length of the molded worm weight. So yes it will be hard to pull, do only one cavity at a time, get a small ladle, try the steps up above, definitely use mold release, and you should be in business. This is not an easy mold to pour either. Please do post pics for others to see what you are up against, and if you need more help PM me or do post questions so others can learn from your experience. Glad to be of help and post your results as you get good pours. This way we all can see how you solved your problem and learn. I learn a lot from guys as well as you may find an easier way to do something. I'm all for easier as I have enough probelms at times pouring. Good luck.

Joe, This must be an older mold from Do-It or it is made by someone else as I don't see it listed anywhere. What I would like to see is the inside of the cavity and how they are laid out along with how the pull pin looks. What is the model number of the mold and who made it? Also if you can post a pic that would be easier for me to give you a correct answer, or e-mail me a pic. So without seeing the mold or the pull pin I can only give you this info. I have 4 Do-It molds that require a pull pin. I found out the hard way and by trial and error on how to pour these as there is no info on this anywhere. Here are my findings. #1 If you have multiple cavities per mold side, I found that if you pour all three per side, it is nearly impossible to pull the pull pin out. I struggled to do this the first time I poured and damaged my pull pin. So only do one cavity at a time. It's easier on the hands. #2 Yes even pouring with one cavity at a time it is hard to pull the pin out. So as soon as the cavity fills. Immediately yank that pull pin out when the bullet weight is still in the mold and hot. Pull the pull pin out when the weight is still in the mold, you will have more leverage that way. Do not take the weight out of the mold and then try to pull it off. You will damage the pull pin and the weight. Ask me how I know. #3 Do not use oil. I found that the oil does not work any better, and it gets all over the mold and the weights. Also now you have oil all over your weights and if you want to powder paint them or airbrush them, you will have to degrease them. A real P.I.T.A. #4 At first, I could not get full pours at all. More trial and error. You must use mold release in the molds. I found that it solved all of my problems on full pours on molds with pull pins. #5 I also found that I got better results pouring with a ladle. A cheap $4 ladle works just fine. The ladle works because it allows the lead to be poured faster with a smaller stream and let's the air escape. I also noticed that when pouring with a ladle I have a tendency not to over pour, thus letting the lead suck into the cavity.and giving complete pours. Try the ladle it does work. I have three bottom pour pots and I've tried tilting the mold all different ways till the month of Sunday, did not work. The ladle is your best shot for this. My mold has a deep sprue hole and it is hard to get it to work. Sometimes it is better to just fill the cavity until you have only enough lead to see it cover the cavity. Another words do not over fill it only causes problems. #6 These molds and pull pins have to be hot and I mean really hot. Especially the pull pin. #7 Gap the mold a little. This helps the air escape. You might get some flash, but it is still easier to trim off some flash then to pour for three hours and get all bad pours. I've been there and done that. Patience is a virtue with pouring these types of molds, trust me I know. Spent many hours trying to figure this out and cusssing. #8 Finally you can try this last step, until you get in the groove and start getting good pours. Spray your pull pin with mold release. It will at least for a half dozen pours get you good ones and get you going. The mold release will not last on the pull pin, because you have lead on the pull pin and the friction of pulling the pin out all the time will take off the mold release. This is it in a nutshell. I don't know how everyone else does this, but I have spent many hours trying to find a quick easy solution to these molds. There isn't one. All 4 of the molds I have are all a P.I.T.A. So what I do, is if I need a dozen or two dozen poured, and I finally get on a roll and they start pouring really well, I pour 4 or 5 dozen and put the rest in a plastic zip-lock bag, because I know the next time I pour these again, I will have problems all over again. These are not easy molds to pour and definitely not for the beginner. If you need more help PM me. Also post those pics. I would like to see the cavity set-up.

Barry and Jason, I sent you e-mails with the fluid bed tutorials.

What is your specific questions regarding this mold????????????

Guys I will e-mail the plans to you later on tonight, as I din't have them with me at work.

I am with smalljaw on this. I have had white spinnerbaits that have been easily sitting as samples on my desk going on 3-4 years and they have not yellowed thus far. Now I will tell you that D2T is not as clear as E-tex or flex coat. It does have a slight amber tint to it. I can see this as I put it on the white spinnerbait, however the finish has never turned yellow for me.

Barry, The only person I would recommend that makes and sells a good fluid bed right out of the box for a resonable price is TJ's Tackle. As far as his fluid bed having volcanoes, I can't answer that. Now if you are handy and want to make one I have plans I can send you. When you talk about the filters, these are attached to the bottom of the cups, so all you need to do is make several extra cups. Many guys use different filter media, because defferent media works better for different powder, with white powder being the heaviest. You will get more answers here shortly. As far as volcanoes go in your home made one, all you have to do is just swish the powder in the cup with a spoon and it will take care of the problem.