cadman

Musky Gary, Everyone who tries to copy other designs and molds has to be careful so they don't infringe on any patents and so on. That is why all the molds you see that we pour are either very different or very basic. You will not see any spot remover molds, Eakin molds and so on. You have to be very careful on what you make and/or get the permission of the company to use and make their molds and their hooks.

I agree with you on the flat bottom jigs. Do-it and others stop making them because they don't work. I'm with you also on this. I won't buy any of those molds either because for #1 You know they will charge more for the mold because it is fit specially for a Trokar hook and #2. No-one I know fishes Trokars as they are way overpriced. With that said since I sell jigs, I would have to charge guys to buy the mold so that I could pour jigs for them. Plus charge them for the hooks and the jig. This is a no win situation for me because no-one would pay for all of this, and I don't see a big demand in selling jigs with Trokars, when there are better alternatives.

Yes this has saved many a bad days of pouring. Excellent advice and a cheap alternative for a $5.00 ladle.

Curtis, This is a very broad subject that can not be answered in one paragraph. I will start with a few things to try. #1. Try to stick the mold sprue hole right into the pot spout and then fill with lead. This kind of forces the lead into the mold. #2. If that doesn't work, gap the mold a little and try again with step #1 #3. The info mentioned above is very helpful, especially the mold release, if you don't use it you should as it will eliminate about half of the problems. Others will chime in with more info.

If I remember correctly, the new molds come out around late November and December, cause I always see new molds right after X-mas. It would definitelly be nice to see a Swarming Hornet copy. Wow Smalljaw, I don't know about you but making a mold for a Trokar is a really big gamble in my eyes. Those hooks are so expensive, that even if you got an order for some baits using Trokars it would probably be a a very seldom used mold, unless Do-It would make a multi hook cavity. Like an Eagle Claw and and a Trokar, or a Mustad and a Trokar. That way if it were a unique mold it would benefit a lot of others who don't want to pay for a Trokar hook. Just my opinion.

X3 on Worth for blades and definitely their BB swivels. I also have no experience with Lakeland products.

For wire tied skirts on jigs this is what I do. #1 Rubber collar already on the uncut tabbed skirt #2 Slide skirt with rubber collar over jig collar. #3 I put (3) wraps of wire over the skirt tightly while the rubbwer collar is still on. #4 Once I start to twist the wire I roll the rubber collar down to the hook shank and leave it there, just in case I brerak the wire, then I can just roll it up again and put another piece of wire on. #5 Once wire is twisted, cut tag ends of wire, fold into skirt, roll off rubber collar for later use, cut tab end to release strands. Make sure you check to see how the skirt lays on the jig and that the strands atre equal before you cut. For thread, the only difference is that I put a layer of thread wraps on the jig body, starting at the bottom and working toward the top of the head. Then start steps #1 and #2. #3 Take your thread at the top of the head, and make 4 or 5 tight wraps, then slide down your rubber collar onto hook shank. Finish the wraps going down tightly then go back up. #4 Once you are at the top again, I do (2) sets of (4) wraps of whip finish. Cover wraps with Sally Hansen's nail polish. #5 Let dry

I use the same tool you use for tabbed skirts. However when I put the skirts on my jigs, I either wire tie them on or use thread. I do not use the rubber collars as a permanent solution. If you do not use either of the options I mentioned and you use rubber collars over your jigs, then whatever you do do not use any oils, or Wd-40. Reason being is the oils will make the collar go on easier, however it will also let your skirt slide down as well. You can use a little liquid soap, soap when it dries, dries hard and will not let the skirt and collar slide down. Eventually the rubber collars will dry rot when sitting out in the sun. Just my 2 cents worth.

doublest, This is probably the hardest thing to paint if I am envisioning what you are trying to do. First of all the loop part on top you can cover with a small piece of aluminum foil. That will cover the top. On the bottom side where I believe the rivet is, the wire is usually loose in the sinker. Push the top loop as far as you can so the bottom rivet sticks ouit a bit. If you can wrap or stick some foil in there that would be ideal, however I don't believe you will have room there. Realistically it would be best to spray the sinkers with spray paint. Just my two cents worth.

Tony, You mentioned brushed off excess. What does that mean? Also your link doesn't seem to work can you post the link again. Thanks.

Tuna, This is my recommendation for the 1/8 oz Snootie Jig. 3mm (.169 dia.) for the 2d and 3mm (.186 dia) for the 3d eye. You can use the 2.5 it is just a little smaller. I like the biggest eye I can put on a jig especially on that jig because of the squared off type of body.

Hey Cranker, No need to appologize, I like guys that are willing to share info. I will still keep looking for it. It is a good deal for the price. I will let you guys know if I find it anywhere.

Tuna, Here are my answers to your questions. I'm sure others will chime in. Also hope Smalljaw posts, because he like myself loves this jig. 2d and 3d eyes: The 2.5 is the diameter (in millimeters) of the eye that is supposed to fit in the jig after it is poured. I personally feel that, that eye is too small. Also when you get into the bigger Snootie jigs, the 2.5 mm is definitely too small. I have a chart that I made that shows which 2d and 3d eyes fit which jigs. It is not finished, but PM me your e-mail and I will send it to you. My data is based on eyes bought from WTP. Also 2D eyes are different diameter than 3D eyes of the same size, as I have measuerd them and checked them. Hooks: If you want a lighter hook, you can easily take an aberdeen hook and bend the hook eye shank and it will work. You can try it with the bronze hooks like the EC #570 or go to the Mustad brand and use a 32729 which should be a perfect fit. I can't vouch for the Mustad one because I never use light hooks for this mold. Weedguard: If you want a wire weedguard in the mold instead of the stranded, fill the spot where the weedguard is supposed to go with high temp silicone. Make sure to keep silicone off the face of both mold halves. Once it cures, you can then position a wire weedguard in the mold where you want it, and then close the mold halves. The mold halves with the silicone inside will keep the wire weedguard from falling out. If you want to go back to the old weedguard , just pull out the silicone filler you put in. Others will have more info. But this is a start.

#1 I use gate shears to cut the sprue and then I file the remainder smooth. #2 You can use long nose pliers as well. It is much faster to use some sort of plier versus a wire bender for the end loop. If you use a wire bender, you still have to use some sort of plier to close the loop tight, so might as well use the plier and skip the additional step. #3 You can go to fishingskirts.com for a wider selection. I personally like to use round skirt material for spinnerbaits like silicote skirt material or starflash skirts. To me they seem to work better on a spinnerbait.. JMO

You can add me to the list today. I went to Lowe's, Home Depot and Menards. Home Depot and Menards used to carry it and they stopped for some reason. I too am going to go to Ace Hardware or True Value to see if they have it. If not I'll buy it on-line. Cranker, if they still have some you better buy it, because they will probably stop carrying it. It looks like a really good deal. Thanks for sharing.

Tell them you heard about them on Tackle Underground.

Very cool. So the million dollar question. Are you a cad guy and did you draw that? Just curious.

I don't have that mold, can you take a pic of the inside so we can see what it looks like. I'm sure once you post a pic everyone will give you good feedback and lots of ideas.

Yep, They have the best prices around anywhere. I only order my molds from them now. Other places don't compare to their price and service. Pus I have a personal vendetta against one of the places I used to buy my molds from, and I won't buy from them anymore.

Hey Cranker, I'm all for something cheaper that works. Thanks for the info. Do you have a link where you saw this on the werb???

Tim, Thanks for the info.

Hey Tim, I at some point was looking for those as well along with the black rattles that go into there. I have not been able to locate the company that makes either of these in bulk. If anyone knows please inform me as well.

I would like to hear on how you would prepare it otherwise. Maybe some of your tips would benefit others. All I do is oil the hinge pins, and spray mold release in the cavities. I do not smoke the molds, as I find it doesn't do anything other than leave a film residue on the jigs. Now mold release definitely works and definitely helps 100%. This is just my opinion.

Hey M-D, Welcome to TU and I'm glad the admin. got everything straightened out for you. I am of the different belief, as I fill the hole nearly to the top. Some jigs have really deep weedguard holes while others are more shallow. I have found from my experience that when I used a lot less, the glue settled at the bottom of the hole and didn't glue in all the strands properly. They would then fall out. This is just my opinion. Experiment with it and let us know what you find. Like mentioned 50 jigs doesn't sound bad at all. One other trick I found which will get you more weedguards glued in is this. Turn your super glue bottle upside down. Take a pair of small channel locks and when your ready to glue, squeeze the handles on the tube (where normally your fingers would go) with the channel locks. Believe it or not you will get a lot more glue out of that bottle. When you're done, cap the tube and leave it turned upside down. When you're ready do the same next time until you will eventually run out. I would say you could do another 10 jigs with this little trick. Believe it or not those bottles are not full. The bottle is about twice the size or more of what liquid is in the bottle. Unfortunately, they do not fill by volume, but by ounces marked on the bottle.