cadman

Read the thread below in the wire bait forum "Snootie/problems and Questions", gives you lots of good info. I use stout hooks on these jigs and I fish them religiously. Owner 5304's and Mustad 32786's. I personally don't use any other hooks when I fish this jig. It fishes well with the hooks I use and I've caught a boatlod of fish on the smaller jig.

I have both snootie molds as well and pretty much all I fish. I also use the same hooks as smalljaw. I too only pour one cavity at a time as I find it easier for speed and accuracy. I think I know what you are trying to say and I think I know what's happening. Are you saying that you can load 3 different hooks in three different cavites on the same mold and then pour one cavity, then go on to the second and then the 3rd and they do not pour complete? If your answer is yes, then what is causing the problem is your Palmer Hot Pot. What is happening is this. You are trying to pour (3) cavities and when you get to the second and third one they don't fill. I have a hot pot and pour usually spinnerbaits with it on occasdion, and I don't like it for that reason. What's happening is you pour the first cavity fast and it fills and you have some overflow. You go to the second cavity which is in the middle and you have to pour slower so you don't get overflow in the last cavity. When you get to the last cavity it is either by your hands or by the hinge and believe it or not, subconsciously you are pouring slower yet because you don't want to over pour in the hinge area and if it's by your hands you don't want to overpour theer because you can burn your hands or fingers. Believe it or not I am much more cautious when I pour with a Palmer Hot Pot then with a bottom pour pot.So you have to pour too slow to get the stream into each separate cavity, and by the time you do that the lead is cooling off and it doesn't fill the other cavities. If you pour too fast to compensate for this it will over fill one cavity and then start to fill another. By the time you get to the other you can't pour into it because some lead from the first pour has seeped into this one. The only solution to this is pouring with a bottom pour pot, where you can load three cavities with 3 different hooks and then pour. Even with a bottom pour pot ,I have tried to load (3) cavities with hooks and pour each cavity and it does work. Like I mentioned I find it slow going, because you have to make sure the hooks are seated correctly along with the base hole pins and also you have the correct hooks in the correct cavities. I seemed to waste a lot of time doing it this way, because either one of the hooks moved or the basehole pin moved and I could not close the mold. What you can do if you want to pour this way, is to stick the sprue hole of the mold into the nozzle of the bottom pour pot. I hope this explains it a ltlle better.

Don, I e-mailed you the tutorial. BTW Welcome to Tackle Underground.

You can mix what ever colors you want to achieve secondary colors. The only thing about mixing two colors together is that it will never be a true pigment. What I mean by that is if you mix a blue and yellow to closely match a green you bought, it will never be exactly the same green you bought. The green that you bought prior is made from a colored pigment, the green you are mixing is from two colors. So in reality it's no big deal since we are making jigs, and the fish really don't care. Just make sure you right down your ratios once you find the grey you are looking for, so you can duplicate it again on some other day.

Oldschool, Wow with everybody going to Zeiner's, I should be a sales rep for them and get a commision. LOL Just kidding. I, like everyone else, is always looking to save money on a very addicting hobby. Glad all you guys were able to save a little pocket change. I look at it this way, as sad as it is, every $4-$5 I save buys me another gallon of gas.

Tony it's not that, I take all info from everyone and if I have some experience in a particular area, I try to help out. I just thought I would pass along some things that I have tried and have worked. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, because there are a lot of things I don't know either.

I have not tried it either. I have read on other forums, that there were mixed feelings and results.

Tony, On getting multiple colors on a jig, that has never been an issue for me, because I have been doing this for so long and when I started this years ago, I was determined to try to put as many colors of powder paint on a jig as possible to see if I could do it. As you can see it can be done, however it is more time consuming as you have to know what colors go over what, and there are always surprises. So if you are not sure always do a test piece and bake it to make sure you get what you want. Also another note is I have majority of my colors custom made. So I have never had problems with mixing paint manufacturers or problems with different heating times recommended by the paint manufacturer. When I eventually get all of my colors on, the different powder paints will all eventually cross-link in their properties when they are baked. So no need to worry about differnt oven cure temps as all of it works itself out in the end.

I can tell you what I know, as I have played with this as well, and again the stuff I tried was so time cosuming like you mentioned, stealing the idea is really not worth it. Anyway about 6 years ago I got really heavy into applying as many thin coats of powder paint as possible. What I came up with was 6 colors max, with a glitter coat and then a top coat. I achieved this and currently can do this regularly as you can see by my avatar. I then wanted to get the diamond scale effect on my jigs like the airbrush guys do. I do have an airbrush, however I didn't want to use two processes. So I thought I would try some things with powder paint. I have tried on and off doing this going on 8 years and have not gotten the results I want. So here's what I've tried. #1 Hot painted jig.....put on diamond tulle (veil material). It stuck to the jig and damaged the paint. Also damaged the tulle. #2 Hot un-painted jig.....put on diamond tulle over raw jig, sprinkled on powder paint over tulle and jig. Found out that tulle does not work well with heat and is very fragile. #3 Hot un-painted jig..... put on wire mesh over jig, sprinkled on powder paint over mesh and jig. Powder paint with un-even coverage, mesh has to be taken off carefully to keep paint from smearing. Then tried taking mesh off after paint has cooled. Mesh came off but it stuck to mesh and then some mesh chipped off as well. Didn't look very good. #4 Hot painted jig..... put on wire mesh over jig, very hard to work with and tried not to damage the finish. I did imbed the pattern onto a jig, but this was very tedious. Didn't look the best. Definitely not something I could sell. #5 Hot un-painted jig..... put on hi-temp tape that was cut in stencil form. Stuck it on a hot jig and then applied powder paint by sprinkling over stencil. Tape didn't stick to well to hot jig. #6 Cold un-painted jig..... put on hi-temp tape that was cut in stencil form. Stuck it on a cold jig and then applied powder paint by sprinkling over stencil. Heat jig and paint with heat gun, paint didn't stay on jig and tape started to burn. #7 Hot painted jig..... put on hi-temp tape that was cut in stencil form. Stuck it on a hot painted jig and then applied a second color of powder paint by sprinkling over stencil. Tape stuck to first coat of paint and damged entire paint job. Things that I have tried once imbedded powder was on, although did not look good. 1..........Baked painted jig, even with a thin coat, all the rough raw edges smoothed out from the heat. 2..........Put powder clear coat over imbedded jig, the clearcoat softened the edges and didn't get the effect I wanted. 3..........Put on epoxy over imbedded jig same results as above. 4.......... Any act of heating the jig to cure even at a lower temp softened all the edges and didn't get the clear defined edges of the diamond pattern. So, what would be the best solution if it was a perfect world. Stick on metal, bendable or formable diamond pattern mesh. With that, that is all I have currently tried. Let us know if you come across something different

I also have an idea of what you are talking about as I have tried many times to do things with powder paint and get creative. I also have not had any real success at it. With that siad pics would be helpful. I will warn you though if this is a secret you don't want to let out don't post any pics. There are a lot of guys other than members that read these forums and will steal your idea before you even perfect this. Don't ask how I know. BTW Welcome to Tackle Underground.

Painter, I am confused by the word wobble. If you and I are speaking about the same Wacky Jig mold by Do-It, the jig has a round head with a single strand weedguard and a small EWG hook. Maybe you are referring to some other jig or are you referring to how the worm wobbles when it falls in the water column?????????

Jason, The screw-locs at Captain Hooks, is the same wire diameter (.024) that Do-It, Barlow's, Jann's and Lure Parts On Line sell. The only difference with Captain Hooks screw-locs and the others is that Captain Hooks's screw-locs are a little longer on the shank. So if you're breaking the Do-It ones then these will break as well. Now you have no choice but to make your own.

brendan, This topic just came up on another forum. BTW I like that jig as well that you posted. I personally would stick with a round or a football jig. Reason being is that they just plainly work and do not tip over. Many people seem to think that all these stand-up jigs, spot removers and so on actually work the way they are shown in an aquarium. When in all actuality, the controlled aquarium atmosphere has flat gravel, and the person who let's the jig fall usually does it with a vertical jigging motion. How often do you do this. You are going to cast it out and then let it fall, and however it lands whether right side up or on its side that's what you will get. The you reel it in with the rod at a 60 or 30 degree angle. Also the lake bottom is not perfectly flat. I believe that the fish strikes out ouf reaction, curiosity or hunger. So I'm not a big fan of all of these exotic jigs, however some really are unique. JMO.

That mold is custom made, and you will pay several hundred dollars for it. If the jig is owned by a company like Strike King, you can not copy it and sell it, as you will get sued.

I can't give you any honest long term info on the UV blast as I tried it once and didn't like it. If I want glow in the dark jigs, I use the regular greenish glo powder paint. Others will definitely give you more info.

Chris, Clean you mold cavities with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to remove and oil or grease. Once dry, you can either spray both mold halves or just the cavities. I like to only spray the cavities, by taping everything else off. This is your choice. On areas you want to clean, I wouldn't use steel wool. Lacquer thinner or mineral spirits will take it off easily.

Yes, The best prices on most of Do-It molds is Zeiner's out of Wichita, Kansas. Call and speak in person to Jim Zeiner, he will take care of you.

David, I think this is the ladle Smalljaw is referrring to ( see link below). I use it as well, as it is small and light. I fire up my Lee IV pot and when I am having issues with some molds, I just leave my ladle in the pot and scoop the lead out of the Lee pot with my ladle. Check around for prices They vary. I think Graf & Sons in Mexico, MO has them as well. Don't know how far that is from you. Here is a pic http://www.barlowsta...elting-pots.pdf Stock # 453022

Jason, If you are referring to the FBB-6-SLA football mold and are also referring to the Mustad #38109 EWG 45° flat eye hook, then here is the list of what I use. 1/16 oz = 2/0 1/8 oz = 3/0 1/4 oz = 3/0 3/8 oz = 4/0 1/2 oz = 4/0 5/8 oz = 5/0 Now a 4/0 migh fit in a 1/4 oz jig. If you tell me specifically what hook you want to fit ibn what cavity. I will check it for you. On the screwlocks, I haven't seen anyone sell a heavier wire diameter screwlock. You can make them yourself, however make sure the outside diameter of your screw lock does not exceed you mold capacity, otherwise you will not get them in the mold to pour.

Smalljaw, I toatally agree with you. Everything works great in a controlled enviroment like an aquarium or a pool. However, how many lakes do you know that are perfectly flat and if you find a flat spot how do you know the jig will land on the drop on the flat end and not topple over on a little pebble. This whole stand-up concept is really a clever selling tactic especially on the lighter jigs. Even when I walleye fished with the erie jig, it too toppled over many times. You are better off like you mentioned, buy store bought or custom poured plastics that float. Much better action and it will always float tail up, because it wants to float to the top but the round head or football heads keeps it from doing that.

Smalljaw, You and I fish the same jigs and we both love the Snootie jig which is my go to bait every start of everyday of fishing, then I switch around if that jig doesn't produce As far as the weighted hook goes, I definitely would get the mold. I personally like the action of the way it goes through the water. You can't get that with a jig in my opinion The only suggestion I would make is this. If and when you buy this mold, I used to use the hitch hikers to keep the bait in place. However threading the nose end onto the hitch hiker is a royal P.I.T.A especially if you are in a hurry. Also everything is harder to do on the lake.Do your self a favor and buy the Owner style keepers with the centering pin. Push the centering pin in the nose of the bait and then screw it on. Much, much easier. PM sent.

I don't want to be rude, however since you have all the std molds and you want something different, you are going to have to have one custom made. It's just that plain and simple. Nothing custom made is going to be cheap. If you are looking to spend $100 -$200 dollars than you better modify what you have, because you won't find anything for that price. I am a designer and have custom designed aluminum molds that I have sent to machine shops, and it is very expensive. Design time unless you design it yourself and supply a cad file is about $30/hour. Machinist to cut the miold from a cad file is about the same. So find a mold from Collins and make some small chages, as that is still the cheapest route to go. Or you can make a mold out of Durhams water putty or bondo, this way you can make what you want.

e-mailm sent

Have added some new colors

Yes, you are correct it is Marty and I contacted him. He uses Flex Coat High build with UV. I believe this will make my white paint brighter as D2T makes it more yellow. BTW what is the reason for mixing white chalk in the high build for? Is that so you can eliminate a white basecoat and use this as a wood sealer and a white basecoat? One step instead of two?