cadman

Ben do we have to give our mailing address? It looks like it won't submit unless you do?

I personally like these as they are strong hooks, also now I can have an EWG hook that will fit in all the 60 degree regular eye molds. I've sold quite a few and have never had any complaints. The guys were really surprised that these were Eagle Claw.

I signed one last time and I will sign it again. Ben where do you sign on this petition, I don't see it or I must be blind as a bat. Thanks

I'm with Jig Man, I would like to see them fuller as well, just my opinion.

Softworm, Yes Mustads are made in China if I recall they closed their U.S facility, so they could make them more affordable. I too have heard a lot of negative comments about their quality. I have bought Mustads in the past with no complaints, however as of late, I am concerned about ordering their hooks. We all shall see how this comes out. Go.......................Eagle Claw. Maybe Eagle Claw will regain its #1 spot again.

Smalljaw, I too have been waiting for over 4 months for the 4/0 as well. Probably the most common hook used. BTW, "I think it has a quiet following among jig makers," Pssst don't tell anyone it will be our little secret.

Hey Fuzzy, I kind of like that name (it has a nice ring to it), maybe I should change my avatar and screen name. Only thing is no-one would know who "Hook Hog" is. Guess I'll stick with "Cadman"

Fuzzy, The reason there aren't any of those hooks is because I bought them all. I have a box of 1000 of each size The only ones that are out of stock are the 4/0, and I am on there 1st come 1st serve list as soon as they come in, so I will be set for awhile.

Mark for years when I made the Snootie jig I used Eagle Claw hooks as I din't know any better at the time. I've caught a lot of bass on those old Eagle Claws and I found them to be sharp, but those bronze hooks rusted very easily. That's why I believe Mustad got such a good rap because with there black nickle hooks you never had any rusting issues. With Eagle Claw now re-tooling I think you will see a switch and change in things. This makes it always good as there will be more of a selection, especially when one company is out of hooks.

Smalljaw, You and I and about a handful of people are starting to use these hooks. I have been using the EL111BP hooks for about 2 months, and all I can say is that they are super sharp. I myself have been a die hard Mustad user. However I also look for good quality hooks and good prices. With that said. I am very impressed with the Eagle Claw needle point black pearl hooks. I would have never believed it until I started using them. I know that Eagle Claw wasn't a mainstay for jig makers, and they got a bad rap because as you know all of their jig hooks at one time were bronze coated, and the bronze hooks rusted if you didn't dry them out well. So I have to give accolades to Eagle Claw for changing their manufacturing process and making better hooks available to us jig makers. Keep up the good work, and I believe that their sales will increase if they keep giving guys good product. I will be the first one to promote their hooks from my end if their quality and variety increase. So guys don't think this is your grandfathers old Eagle Claw hooks. Give them a try and I'm sure you will be happy with what you get.

archeryrob, To add to what smalljaw said, there are so many variables in lead pouring. From lead composition to also using a mold release agent, tilting molds (left, right, front and back), heating hooks( as you mentioned), to finally just good old trial and error. There is nothing magical about pouring lead. It does take a lot of trial and error, and once you find what works for that mold write it down so you don't start the process all over again next time. Each mold is it's own animal, and they all have their own personalities, so it's impossible to tell you what to do for each mold, because I have found that two same model numbered molds don't pour the same either. With that said, the only way to get consistency is to write down what worked for you once you find a solution and keep a log. Now some things that I do that may help you. #1. In the winter I keep my hooks in a black old skillet next to my pouring pot with a 100 watt lightbulb over the hooks.I adjust the bulb close enough to keep the hooks hot as to where I can pick them up with my fingers. If you are using wire forms you can toss those in the small skillet as well. The black on the inside helps keep the hooks reakky hot. #2. Making your lead hotter, doesn't make it flow better in my opinion. If you use really hard lead, cranking it up to 10 isn't going to solve your bad pours. Find what the problem is, I keep my pot at around 7 to 7.5 that's it even in winter. #3. Always keep the molds hot. If you walk away from your station, put the mold on the pot to keep it hot. #4. I have found that the Ulta-Minnow mold was the hardest to pour for me. So with that said, I finally started using a mold release agent and it has solved many problems for me that I have had in the past. If you are going to continue pouring, you should use this. It will save a lot of frustrating days. I also pour with a ladle on my spinnerbait. Sometimes you have to use unorthodox methods to get things to work. You do what you have to do. Finally, again it takes a lot of practice and there is a learning curve, and some days if I can't get things to work I just walk away and start on it the next day. So hope some of this helps. Let us know how it goes down the raod.

Congratulations Nathan on your new grandson.

Marv1, Just what FishAction said. I fish jigs in rivers, and they get pretty badly beat up. With that said, I don't sweat the paint job, and just take enough jigs with me to compensate for river fishing. When I come home I melt my damaged jigs and reuse them. That's what is so nice about pouring your own. You can make as many as you want and never run out.

PSV, Everytime I see your work, I just love the quality, color and the care you take in making your spinnerbaits. Job well done. Advice goes out to all that ask of me on this forum, hopefully it helps some out, down the road. BTW Smalljaw, I didn't want to hijack your thread.

BLT, It doesn't say what size on the thread. It comes in black, white beige and brown. It's Coats and Clark, 150 yards (137m), Upholstery, Coats extra Strong, 100% Nylon. Thant's all it says on the label. It will not fit a std bobbin as the spool is pretty big. If you want I can send you a pic, pm me your e-mail.

For Bucktail and rabbit, I get it all from Bass Pro Shops. I personally like an EWG hook or an Owner Deep Throat hook for this application. I use powder paint for all my jigs, no mess no fuss easy to use. Heat gun heats the lead head, dip in powder , rack it and put in toaster oven to cure. On hair jigs I use Coats and Clark upholstery thread. You will never break it and you can tie it nice and tight.

Smalljaw, join the club, I have been very unhappy with the glitter in the powder paints. You are right it is hit and miss and majority of the times it's a miss. I too get too much glitter on one side and not enough on the other. So, this is what I decided to do. I have had for the longest time fine powder glitter called Herbie's Magic Dust. This glitter suspends more than the bigger glitter. I have been using that as it covers very well and evenly. However you do not get the really bold color of glitter. I actually like the subdued glitter effect. I have yet to find something that can be put on as a powder swished through and be done. There are some paints that have glitter efffect in them, also I believe that the illusion paints are like that. Finally I also believe that some crankbait guys spray their glitter on from an aerosol can. Don't know all of the colors available and if you have to put a topcoat on. I feel your need for something better, but I too haven't found it. I just deal with it and try my best. Sorry I'm of no help, but maybe others will have answers to our dilemma.

I have to agree with everone here. All the molds that have double collars or barbs do not need a wire keeper. Now on the ball collars, that is a different story. I have the Snootie jig as well, and I love that jig the most out of all the molds I have. I have never had problems with tying skirts on ball collared jigs, but if you want to tie on a skirt and then put on a trailer, well at that point , yes you will need to make some modifications to the mold. I have done this on the bullet bass jig mold. It is a round collared mold as well. I had the mold custom cut, and it works fine, but you have to be very precise on where to put the cuts on both halves, as there is not a lot of room for error, because the ball collar is not that big, and if you cut it wrong the trailer keeper will show on the jig shank and the ball collar. Also think of using something like .030 or .025 wire diameter. Don't go too thick because again you will have problems. You should use stainless steel of course and bends on both ends of the wire in opposite directions, so the wire doesn't pull out of the mold. I hand bend my wires and it's not really that big a deal especially if you are using thinner wire. Anyway good luck and let us know how it goes.

x2

205pro welcome to TU. I have tried hot glue and it does not work. After the glue dried and hardened, I put a jig in a glass of water, for 24 hours took the jig out yanked on the weedguards and they came out. That was the end of that experiment. I use two things currently for gluing in my weedguards. When I don't epoxy my jigs I use Loc-Tite gel super glue. When I epoxy my jigs I use (Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute) for my weedguards and for my jigs. I only epoxy jigs when I use 2d and 3d eyes, or when requested by my customers. The D2T does give the paint a really deep color. You will get other answers here as well to help you decide.

Yes, that was a thread I started and yes it is a time saver for sure.

Welcome to Tackle Underground and your 1st thread. I've been doing this a long time and if you are using powder paint, then your option #1 definitely, no matter what jig you pour with any weedguard. I have never had any luck with option #2 as I don't believe you can get a good paint job on the jig that way, and definitley not when you are trying to do multi-color powder painting. You will get other replies here as well. Good Luck

PM me your e-mail and I will send you fluid bed plans, which you can make yourself. It is easy to do.

X3 on the ball bearing swivels if you use them on your spinnerbaits.

MuskyGary, If I understand you correctly that should work. The only thing you have to make sure is that the gap you have for the wire of the crane swivel is only big enough for the crane swivel to fit in. If you make it too loose, the lead will seep out of the cavity and fill your crane swivel making it useless.