cadman

Not a problem. I ordered 25. I will order several 1000 once I check them out. I figured I would let everyone know if they fit, so they don't go through all the trial and error. I will post pics as well, so you guys can see what they all look like. Maybe they will be in today.

Guys, Finally someone is selling these at a reasonable price now without us tackle makers getting ripped off. The spring clips are made in two wire diameters .020 and .024. These look similar to the spring clips used for all of the Do-It shakey molds. The Hitch Hiker Screw locks have the center post in them, which can be cut off to be used as a Hitch Hiker. These come in small and large. So who has these....................Shorty's Hooks and Captain Hooks. Shorty's sells these in 100 and 1000 count quantities. Captain Hooks sells them in 25, 50 and 100 count quantities. The price for any and all of these is far cheaper than anything on the web. 1000 quantities of the Spring Clips are priced at almost half of what you would pay on line. They are all stainless Steel, and the standard wire diameter which go in the Do-It mold is(.024 -.025), which is what the spring clips are. With that said I have some ordered and I will be getting the shortly. Once I get them I will try to see if they fit the Do-It molds and give you guys feedback. So give me about 3 or 4 days, and I should have them and give you all the info you need. If you want more info, feel free to PM me.

I've used these exclusively for fishing the IL and WI rivers and they do catch fish. However most of the fish in the stretch of river are walleye and sauger. I will agree with Smalljaw, that when you drag these on the bottom, the sediment it displaces makes the fish think that there is bait food on the bottom. I use it with a fathead minnow and do quite well with these. However in the rivers I fish there is so much debris on the bottom, that I lose quite a few, that's why I pour them, cheaper than buying. Also on rivers my philosophy is if you're not on the bottom you're not going to catch fish but that's just me. If I'm catching fish, I don't have a problem losing some jigs. Finally, try Zeiner's for the mold, their prices are usually cheaper than anyone on the web. Also call and ask for a price, don't go by what's posted on their website. They will usually give you a better price talking to them in person. Speak to Jim Zeiner.

I have this mold, and it is mainly for walleye. I have used it and have sold a lot of these jigs to walleye guys. It digs on the botttom and stays there. Works really well tipped with a fathead minnow.

You are absolutely correct, everyone of my Lee pots leak at some time . Just a minor inconvenience, that you figure out how to deal with. There customer service is outstanding.My element went out in my pot and I told them I want the same pot back just replace the element. They did as I requested and only charged me for the element. It doesn't get any better than that. They didn't try to sell me a whole pot.

Tony, You have read my feelings about this, and I still feel this way. However everything is worth a e-mail. Either he will or will not answer. If the latter happens, well then he has made the decision for you. If he replies, then you do have a decision to make and you will be at his mercy. If you pay him you will then have to deal with everything else that comes along unfortunately. Good luck and let us know how it all works out.

Outlaw, I have had limited to no success doing this. I have tried putting clear powder coat over 2D eyes, and since my eyes are screened over a foil type back it seemed to work OK as long as you don't bake it for more than 15 minutes. I have tried it on 3D eyes with no success. The heat melts and deforms the eyes. I have also tried clear nail polish as well, and some of the clear nail polish is fine on the eyes but reacts with the powder paint. Many of the clear nail polishes have acetone in them and that wrinkles the powder paint. This is my experience, if anyone has a better way or a solution I would like to know as well.

Yes it is a worm weight mold. There should have also been an insert with (4) pins sticking out of it . The insert goes into the bottom of the mold in your case where the (4) cavities are per side. You close the mold with the inseert inside and pour from the top (2) sprue holes. This mold has 2 sprue holes, there is one sprue hole that feeds two weights. So when you pour lead in one of the sprue holes ypou get (2) worm weights. What the insert does is keeps the lead from flowing out of the bottom and the pins in the insert keep a through hole from front to back so you can thread your fishing line through. Without the insert the mold is useless. I believe it is a one piece insert. I have seen this item before and I believe I am correct. They are a nice find and if complete make some good t-rig worm weights. Others may have more info.

Mark, You have the 3/8 oz production mold and I have the multi cavity mold. So I took the and measured the hook. The Mustad 32831BLN 2/0 hook is an 1/8" longer than your hook The 82831 hook fits no problem in the 3/8 oz mold . The wire diameter of both are .040". With that said it will fit your mold as well. See pic below

Hawn, The hook I have been using regularly and am happy with is the 60 degree EC L111BP. It is a Black Pearl finish, extra wide gap and the guys I've been selling them to are very happy with them. The hooks used to be lazer point and now have been switched over to needle point. So far so good and they fit my molds that take a 60 degree hook.

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Mark, What Do-It mold model # do you have and what size hook are you using in what cavity? It looks like a Mustad 82831 BLN will work. I have these hooks so I can check the fit and send you a pic showing the size difference.

Jigman, You are correct, they last forever. I have had one for several years, and the cost to fix them is minimal.

Redneck, Your hook of choice for that mold in a Mustad would be a 32786 BLN. They are pretty comparable.

Hawnjigs, As of late I have heard that Eagle Claw is changing all of their hooks over to needle points in black nickle. I have some of the numbers in stock and I'll tell you one thing they are sharp. I do not know however if they are going to change the entire line though. If what I have is a product of things to come, I will gladly use Eagle Claws with my Mustads. I also think that Eagle Claw if they do persue this, will give Mustad a run for the money. It's something to look into and keep in mind for the future.

black haze, I am a strong proponent of the Lee IV bottom pouring pot. I do not ladle pour except on very rare occasions, when nothing seems to work on a particular day. The Lee pot I believe is the easiest to use and the safest. I have (4) Lee IV pots, (2) Palmer hot pots and a big RCBS pot. They all suit a purpose for me, but my bread and butter ones are the Lee IV pots. You will not be disappointed if you buy one. There is a learning curve to all of this, so be patient, ask questions, read all the safety issues at the top of this forum, and most of all be aware of what you are doing when pouring. Lead is very hot and unforgiving. Wear safety glasses a face shield, long sleeve shirt, long pants and shoes, to keep yourself from being burned.

black haze, I'm going to give you my personal opinion on this so take it for what it's worth. As far as the use of Trokar hooks, for one I don't use them as I don't think they are worth the money. Mustad and the new Eagle Claw needle point hooks by far are as good as you will get for a quality hook at a reasonable price. Many people I have dealt with tell me that between Gamis and Trokars, it is very easy to roll the points on those very quickly, making the hooks pretty much useless, unless you sharpen them again, and then you won't get the same point. Now I will tell you that there are very few Gamis that fit Do-It molds without modifcation. Do-It has worked hand in hand mainly with Eagle Claw and Mustad, and if you look at all the Do-It molds majority of them design their molds around those two hook maunfacturers. So now comes the million dollar question. Can you modify a mold yourself. This all depends on how much work is involved, how handy you are and how accurate you want everything to look. I can do a lot of the work myself, however I choose not to because I sell my jigs to people, and I want the outcome of the modified jig to look professional. Unless you have machining skills and have the correct equipment, I find it very difficult to get good clean exact work with a file, drill press and a dremel. This however is a personal choice. If you want to enlarge an eyelet, you may be able to do it with a drill press. If you want to carve out a cavity, no matter how good you are, using a dremel will never be exact like using a milling machine.Finally if you plan on modifying a mold yourself, take your time, lay it out, and measure twice. If you make a mistake it is pretty hard to correct the problem. Just my two cents worth.

Mark, I don't have the mold, but my friend does, and there is not enough material on the outside face of the mold to do what you want. If you machine it out to be a football head you will go through the aluminum. With that said, why not use this mold ( http://do-itmolds.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=1_8_28 ), and modify it for the hook you want. If you tell me what hook you are looking for, I can tell you if it will fit the 3/8 oz cavity in this mold.

What mold does he have? Model number and manufacturer. I'll see if I can find a hook that will fit it.

Black haze, Here is my input on this. If you want one mold with (4) 1/2 oz cavities then you will have to go custom made, which is several hundred dollars. If It were me I would buy the mold that has the 3 different cavities. The reason is this. As long as I've been pouring, I found it is easier to load hooks and pour intio a single cavity, then try to load hooks into 4 cavities and then pour 4 cavities. I have gone down this road many times and it is still easier as I mentioned. If you try to pour four cavites with loaded hooks, they may not all fill, and you will be wasting a lot of time. If you load one cavity with a hook and pour you will figure out how to hold the mold and how to fill with lead, also you will get into a rythm and it will go much faster than the other way, and you will pour many more jigs quicker with no re-pours. This is from my personal experience. Also you will have the other cavities available if all of a sudden you want a smaller size jig. Just my persoanl opinion.

Rodney, I use the pins for pouring and painting. Once you use them you will never go back to using metal pins ever again.

I have the perfect solution for you. It is the snootie jig. I use it in the 1/8 and 3/16 oz size, painted and skirted and I just smoke the bass on my lake. The slow fall just makes it an ideal small bait jig and it works. Good Luck on it.

They may send it to you, all you have to do is call. Here is their phone number. 1-800-707-0208. their website is www.barlowstackle.com

Fatman, There isn't a separate page that lists them. How they do it is like this. If you look in their 2011 catalog page 40 and 41. These two pages give you all the aberdeen hooks that Barlow's sells. Sometimes under the caption, it will say that the Mustad 32756 hook is comparable to an Eagle Claw 570. Also all the hooks are grouped. So if you are looking for a 28-30 degree jig hook, all the ones Barlow's has is on the lower right hand corner of page 41. They don't however make a complete comparison hook for hook.

In Barlow's catalog, they have the best cross reference of hooks I have ever seen.