cadman

smalljaw, The 38108 hooks do not fit in that mold, as the hook eyes are too big and the mold won't close without physically modifying the mold. The 38109 hooks will fit as I use those all the time. Here are the weight oz jigs and the 38109 hooks that fit those cavities. 1/8 oz. will take and fit a 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 and 5/0 38109 hook with no problem and no mods. 1/4 oz will take and fit a 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 and 5/0 38109 hook with no problem and no mods. 3/8 oz will take and fit a 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 and 5/0 38109 hook with no problem and no mods. 1/2 oz will take and fit a 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 and 5/0 38109 hook with no problem and no mods. The hooks are springy enough to fit as mentioned.

smalljaw, I have the mold and the hooks you mentioned. I have to go out for about 4 hours, however I will have an answer for you tonight for sure. Talk to you later.

Steve here are some links The first two is the one I recommend. Notice the 1623CR hooks in the first one. The erie jig works well also. I have all the others, however they do not stand up in my opinion like they should. Just my opinion. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Stand-Up-Jig-Molds-P207.aspx links http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Stand-Up-HD-Jig-Molds-P244.aspx http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Tip-Up-Jig-Mold-P211.aspx http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Erie-Jig-Molds-P182.aspx http://www.barlowstackle.com/-Do-It-Hidden-Eye-Brush-Weedless-Jig-Molds-P263C56.aspx

Mark, I only coat the side that has the decal on it. Also I lay it flat on a raised block, so your blade doesn't stick to anything along the edges. I have tried to do both sides one at a time. Coat one side let it fulll dry and then coat the other side. The problem is that on the convex side the etex will want to run to the middle and pool there. I have tried to put it on really thin and it still pools. So I stopped coating the inside of the blades.

Steve, PM sent

Steve, I have the Do-It SUS-5-A mold. It definitely stands up better than the Brush Jig. However couple of things to think about. #1 You will have to use the #1623 hook which is more of an aberdeen hook, unless you modify the mold. #2 If you use the #1623 hook, make sure you get #1623CR. The CR stands for crimped hook. What this is, is a off set in the hook shank, to keep the hook from spinning in the mold when you pour the lead. Do not buy this mold if you are not going to buy the #1623CR hooks. I believe the hooks are only available from Do-It and in 1/0 and 3/0. #3 Do-It also makes a heavy duy stand up jig which uses a heavier hook. I do not have this mold so I can't give you any info on it. This is probably a better choice. PM me if you need more info on hooks and cavity sizes.

Dave, thanks for finding the link and posting?

Yes, there is a gap, and believe me I never had a problem selling jigs this way I have sold literally thousands with this method. It's not a secret it's just the way that I sell my jigs. RR316 is correct if you use epoxy it will fill the hole. I use loctite gel super glue, and I put in a little extra and the fibers do not come out. Even if you see a little hole, it doesn't hurt anything. Also I center my weedguard around the hole so it looks even.

Wooly, First of all on all of my jigs I use the .018 diameter weedguard. If I want it stiffer I put on more starnds if I want it more pliable I use less. All of my regular jigs with the 1/8" weedguard hole I use 15 strands. I do not like stiff weedguards. If you have any of these weedguards at home, you don't have to buy any, just remove the strands you want. On an 1/8" weedguard, there are 31 (.018) diameter strands. This is the way I do it, I'm not saying I'm right. As far as weedguards go it all depends on what you like to fish with. Hope this helps.

Clearcoat the entire head with Devcon 30 minute epoxy or Envirotex Lite. Will definitely make it harder and seal the paint.

First of all depends on what mold you want to use. If you want to use a mold that has a weedguard hole in it, then you don't have to machine anything, just put the smaller screw lock in the mold and pour. If you want to use a Do-It mold that uses the big screw loc, then I would weld it and then machine it. I have tried JB Weld and it will not machine well, as it will crack once you try to machine it and the JB weld will pull out. This is just my opinion. Do as you will.

Let me know when you're ready. They work great.

I'm not telling anyone not to use him. I'm just stating the things that have happened and still do. I just wish his business etiquette was better as far as contacting people and keeping promises. Like I said his work is phenominal. So you have to decide for yourself if it's worth the aggravation. I forgot to post this, but Crazy Angler (Robert) will make a custom mold. I have never had any molds done by him but I heard his work is very good and reasonable. Look him up on the i-net he has a website.

Paul, Everything is good. Welcome to TU. You will find a lot of guys with a vast knowledge of everything in lure making here. E-mail....................sent. If you need further help just ask.

If my jigs don't have 3d or 2d eyes I use Loc-tite gel super glue. If they have eyes then I use D2T (Devcon 2 ton). You can use either one. The gel super glue will be ready in 24 hours to go fishing, the epoxy takes a good 2 days to dry and cure hard. Just my opinion. As far as gluing in the weedguards, after painting, just make sure you don't have any paint in the weedguard hole and you'll be fine. I use nylon pull pins when I paint my jigs with weedguard holes this way no paint gets into the hole. Once the jigs are cured in the oven, and cool just start gluing in the wedguards. Let dry thoroughly and go fishing. I'm sure there will be other comments as well. I'm in the process of trying another glue, mentioned by a member here on TU. I haven't gotten a chance to test it. I will give an update in a couple of weeks.

I have used many Dopunt powder paints and they are very high quality and excellent to use for jigs. You should have no problem with it. I have not used the Allesta brand but I have used many of the others. You will be very happy with it. Personaly I use very little Pro-Tec powder paints do to the extreme cost, which in my opinion is unwarranted. But then again that is my opinion. I have posted here a list of other powder companies out there that are excellent for jigs and cost less than 1/2 of Protec. To each his own.

Yes, you can use an 1/8" drill bit if that is the correct size in the mold. Some molds have holes for 5/32 weedguards and some molds have holes for an .080 drill. With that said, the ideal drill bit to buy is several (.000) thousands bigger, because if the base hole pin cavity should be an 1/8"(.125) and the cavity is .128, if you buy a 1/8" drill bit, the drill bit will fall out when you turn it over when you start to pour. If at all possible take the mold with you to the store and fit the drill bit in the weedguard cavity, so when you close the mold it will trap the drill bit. However if this is not possible, you can add tape to the spiral side of the bit until it is high enough, so when you close the mold the two mold halves will do the same thing. Hope this makes sense. If not PM me your e-mail and I will send you some pics.

This topic comes upat least once a year and there is a lot wriiten up about this. This is a worn out song that keeps on playing over and over again .This is my persoanl opinion, so for those of you that do not agree don't jump all over me everyone has a right to their opinion. I feel simply this way, if a person selling a product can not call or contact someone in 2-3 days by whatever means, then they shouldn' be in business. Awhile back guys were waiting 6 moths to a year to get response or product. Some orders were not completed for 2 years and the customer was going to take him to court. That is just outrageous. I will never order a mold from him. I will never wait for someone who will not answer my calls and make a product for me in a timely fashion. You're either in the business to supply a service or not. If you can't keep up with demands then hire help, if you don't want to hire help then close your buiness. Don't string people along. Yes I know he makes an excellent product, however how long are you willing to wait to get it. No-one is that good that I have to bank my customers' business on someone elses bad business practice. However, guys still go back to him and still wait and complain. We are our own worst enemy. If we didn't keep ordering and waiting and then complaining, then he would eventually get them mesage if he didn't have any work. I have heard so many stories about him why things didn't or couldn't get done. When I first started about 6 years ago, it was the same old s&&t, things still haven't changed. I am not blaming anyone new for trying to get a mold made as he does phenominal work. However be forwarned that this business practice hasn't changed and unfortunately won't anytime soon. Sorry for the ranting and raving as I do feel sorry for you guys, however type in his name in the google search and you will get a lot of negative comments among favorable ones and then you have to decide if you want to deal with this.............................Your choice.

All of the jigs I make or sell use a 15 strand .018 or .021 weedguard. Many guys by us like the weedguard very flexible, myself included. I used to use a full weedguard and found later on that my hookup percentages were much better with a more flexible weedguard. However I've seen many guys use full stiff weedguards as well. I guess it depends on what you are used to fishing. There is really no right or wrong way, personal preferance I guess.

Yes, I have spoken many times with Benjamin and he does have good product and very good to deal with. Definitely a class act.

I just came home and saw your post. Yes it was me that posted about nylon pins that I use for pouring and painting. Muti-purpose and this makes it so much easier than using metal pins. Soooooooo if you want more info on this I have them. PM me your e-mail and I will get you all the info on how to use them effectively.

That is very counter productive as you will waste too much time and then making a mess. People have posted in the past on this and they found it to be very slow and ineffective.

Steve, When I say dirty, I have about 50 pins I use only for pouring and 50 pins I only use for sticking in my jig weedguard holes. The reason I say dirty is because from all the pouring I do, and hadling lead being out in the garage, the pins get dusty and gray. So instead of bringing them into the house and using them I just leave them in the garage. Yes you can clean the pins from grime with naphta or alcohol, as they are chemical resistant, but to me it's a waste of time because they will get dirty again. On the pins I use in the house when there is paint stuck on them, I just take the pins and bend them a little and the paint cracks off, pins are then good to go. I assume you are pre-heating your jigs in an oven and then swishing them through the powder paint? That is fine my only concern is that by the time you stick a pin in a hot jig (if you can without burning your fingers), the jig will start cooling off and won't grip the paint. If the jigs are too hot, then you won't be able to stick the pins in them without burning your fingers. Yes the pins do absorb heat and if you try to take them out with your fingers you will burn your fingers. I use hemostats to take them out of the jig. As far as keeping your paint pins clean, don't sweat the details, all the pins will attract paint, and like I mentioned when the pins cool, you can just bend them and re-use them. I hope this helps explain some things. If not let me know.

Tony, E-mail sent

Steve, If you pour your jigs with the nylon pins, then what I would do is, once you start to paint your jigs. put clean pins in the weedguard holes before you heat the jigs. Then heat your jig and swish in the paint.