Rollo
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Everything posted by Rollo
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I watched a couple of YouTube videos on how guys made their own hover jigs. I simply put a hook in my vise and wrapped in a lead nail weight followed by a drop of super glue. It held fine. The issue is in rigging it. I trashed a few soft plastics trying to get them rigged straight and true.
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For me, finesse and teardrop tied for first place. I like the feel of the teardrop better, but the finesse comes through the snaggy stuff and weeds really well. Can't go too far wrong with either.
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11 crankbaits, 5 propbaits, 2 bass poppers and a rattlebait. All primed and ready for color. 9 spinnerbait heads and 60 freshly cast poison tail jigheads which need to be prepped for powder coating. Oh yeah, and an old quarter full bottle of Sam Adams Boston Lager with some grey fuzzy stuff growing on the surface.
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I know an excellent muskie lure builder who keeps a mask, snorkel and swim fins in his boat for those special encounters with logs and stumps.
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unc ross- If you want to learn about glide baits, search for RiverMan's posts on the subject. I've built some really nice baits based on what I've learned from him on this site. He's the man! Also check his web site (Bikini Bait Co.) He can also paint!!!
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Dick Moore goes on vacation in February and March. you can't blame him for escaping the cold N. Wisconsin winter for awhile.Don't give up on him though! He has stuff nobody else has, and is a great guy to deal with.
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Look at the very top thread titled "Hard Bait Cookbook" the very first recipe is for rootbeer. Good luck!
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Fisheye- You can buy screweyes which have an open eye. Just pinch them closed with pliers. Try Stamina, Jann's or Moore's Lures.
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I like Dick Nite's lure coat for this application. Check the compatibility with the paint you're using before coating a killer paint job.
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I've used Titebond liquid hide wood glue. Brush on a coat and let it dry over night. The trick is to spray on a WET coat of paint over the Titebond. (I use Createx) As I understand it, the Titebond absorbs the moisture from the paint at a rapid rate causing the paint to shrink and crack. You'll probably want to experiment with the thickness of the Titebond coat, the paint viscosity and application technique to achieve the results you're looking for. Good luck and have fun!
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I've had very good results with DN. The only problem I encountered was when I got the coating in the can groove which very effectively welded the lid to the can. That is amazingly strong stuff! Once I finally pried the lid off, I transferred the DN to a glass jar with a metal screw on lid. I now use a cheapo turkey baster to transfer the DN to smaller containers. No more stuck lids.
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Hi Swizzle- Coot's lures makes a rattling crawler harness. You can see a photo of it on their website.(www.cootslures.com) I find components at Stamina, Inc, Jann's Netcraft, Barlow's Tackle Shop, and Moore's Lures. The fluorocarbon line I've been using is Berkley Vanish. Oh, by the way, welcome to our addiction!
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Hi Swizzle- I've been tying my snells with 10 Lb. test fluorocarbon. Less stretch than mono and much less visible under water. I like fluorescent chartreuse and fluorescent orange blades in sizes 1-4 for walleye rigs, but that's just my own preference.
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RiverMan- Rollie & Helen's Musky Shop catalog lists replacement tails for some of the swimbaits they sell.
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Thanks, guys. Those are great suggestions. I was thinking those bodies would end up as key chain fobs, Christmas tree ornaments, light switch chain knobs or lovely dangle ear rings for my wife. With your advice, I just may be able to salvage them after all. You're right, Terry. Never again!
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Like many of you, I usually build crankbaits starting with nice square stock, thus ensuring nice square slot lips. However, in a moment of weakness, I bought a bunch of pre shaped balsa bodies. Trying to align and cut square slot lips on them is an absolute bear! Does anyone have a good method of accomplishing this task? Thanks!
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I've been using Createx fluorescent colors for a couple of years. You'll like 'em. Just make sure you have a good solid white base coat down to paint over and you're good to go.
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Sorry- That should be www.jannsnetcraft.com
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Groby- Try w They have many unpainted lure bodies.
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Thanks, La Pala! You're the man!! As usual, your knowledge, expertise and computer skills are helping to make all this information more accessible to the TU community.
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Stamina sells PB & J. I ordered rootbeer from Jann's & got a different color. It was brown but didn't have the purple sheen. (Maybe their order picker grabbed the wrong color.)
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Hi Muskyslayer- I just miked the wire diameter on some commercially made bucktails. Blue Fox Vibrax was .030, Mepps Giant Killer .039, Hirsch's Ghostail .045, and Both VooDoo Tail and Wendel's Musky Harasser were .051. I usually use .045 or .051 on my bucktails and .063 for throughwire surface Baits. You can get shafts in various diameters and lengths from Jann's or Stamina or buy it by the foot from Moore's Lures.Try using the search feature in the wire baits forum for more ideas and info. Good Luck!
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pouring problem on Do-it darter 1/16th oz molds
Rollo replied to Predator Bass Baits's topic in Wire Baits
Thanks very much, Cadman. That was a very helpful explanation. I'll follow your advice and try tilting before I haul out the Dreml! Regards, Rollo