Muskiefool

I use 3-5 in talking with one premier bait maker he applies and wet sands 20 + coats

It looks like your coating a bigger bait, what I do is add a small amount of denatured alcohol to the epoxy after its mixed just enough to thin it a touch, the epoxy is setting up on you faster than the bubbles can escape, I had fits with this for some time, now I have no problems at all and it I do have a problem spot where the epoxy is uneven or has a few bubbles before it hardens hold a blow dryer on low or med to it and it'll flow together nice but you need to breath on or use a propane torch at the same time, Ive in the past set a Buddy heater next to my rotisserie in lieu of a propane torch, for bubbles and imperfections it works pretty good, also for sealing all my wood I cut Devcon 2T with denatured Alc 50/50 and it will soak in 1/16 to 1/8 inch depending on the wood and harden like a rock I have a Muskiemagnet that I did a few years ago and treated like this the hook rash has yet to get through the devcon sealer(wish I had used Devcon coating the bait), one note if you use Denatured Alc be careful its extremely flammable

I have done some where I go heavy on the paint and then hit with the blow dryer it tends to leave a slight wrinkle look

The dimmer could overheat at low speeds, you can get controllers for your lights and fan on the same device that would work nice at any Home or Lumber yard for ceiling fans here is a link to some examples, good luck, I'm gonna start one soon myself I really need one. http://www.ceilingfan.com/Emerson_ceiling_fan_remotes.htm http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/13-37-fan-control-switches/rotary-variable-speed-fan-control-626424.aspx?iorb=4764 PS Fluorescents will not work on a dimmer

Looks good fingers just remember to use a switch to control fan speed that is motor rated lighting dimmers will be cheaper but will likely give you problems

Heres what I have

That is last years fish carving champion I forgot to mention in my original post

if breathing on it won't work due to the curing process being too advanced try a blow dryer then breath on it or I set my buddy heater under the wheel and that creates enough CO2 to take out bubbles along with the blow dryer.

I find this, WOW http://www.taxidermy.net/wtc/Blackshaw_2005.jpg' rel="external nofollow">

.051 S/S and .059 also

I found this stuff it's pretty good I mix it with my Clear on the second coat http://www.misterart.com/store/view/003/group_id/8210/Art-Institute-Ultrafine-Opaque-Glitter.htm

as soon as it's clear without gobs floating around in the cup, the cure time is about the same irregardless if it's cut or not.

You want it runny so it soaks into the wood, about the consistency of water(50/50 or so) I mix it in clear cups it's easier to see that the epoxy is fully incorporated, just keep applying it till it wont soak up any more, and remember Denatured Alcohol is extremely flammable, then hang to dry this stuff holds bonding primer great, hope this helps.

The only reason to cut Devcon is if it's used as a wood sealer or if you are covering huge baits, if you cover large 15+ inch baits without cutting it your not gonna be happy, it only takes a small amount of denatured alcohol to make it manageable(no lines ,bubbles or open areas), devcon is the best thing I've found, another thing I noticed with this product I had the wheel stop one time and the baits had some small runs, so I panicked, LOL, got the wifes Blow dryer and held it on the bait(still tacky, if its hard your done) and the runs flowed right out, got them back on the wheel and they dried allot faster than the usual time with no bad results, I don't make anything smaller than 6 inches or bigger than 20 inch, allot of this does not apply to small bass plugs where it's not necessary to cut this product, unless its for wood sealing where it will penetrate up to a 1/16th of a inch with ceder, less on oak or maple. Good Luck

Thanks guys, everyone that sees it says Brass Knuckles, LOL, the action if fished with 10-12 inches or a bit more of slack and snapped(like fishing a WTD top-water) is about 180 on its own axis, you can almost suspend it, but with gentle pulls it will glide 20 inches or so, on the straight retrieve it wonders back and forth 6-8 inches off each side, on a dead fall it has a slight wobble, also it put my Personal best in the boat last summer, I'm just starting to get some ready for this season and hope to have some for sale soon, Muskie Magnet told me to envision the action you want in a bait then just build it, and there was allot of thinking into this one, from the refraction of light, to the angle of the sides, the finish, weighting, has all come from information on this board and the help of a few friends.

Well Jed I was inspired by your Beer Belly, and I feel that your bait is the benchmark for glides, your bait broke a year long slump for that I'm indebted .

I just finished this for a buddy figured I'd give you guys a peek before he gets it

I tried allot of different things and what works best for me is sanding from 220 down to 800 then a quick touch with the buffing wheel on the dremle tool with some rouge they really shine nice

with this one I used 5-6 coats of fast-Mask and drew it out with a sharpie and cut with a exacto worked great but made my head hurt http://www.muskiefool.com/images2/muskiepic/MB%20ZEBRA.jpg

Hey Buddy what the heck are you doing to yourself LOL get better soon the rain forest is depending on you

Thats a real shame Jerry I hope things get back for you soon this is a great site and owe any success in making my baits swim to these guys here.