longball

overspray should never get out of a 2 foot area. Not a mess at all unless you throw something.

Thanks for the tease Mike. I was waiting for the answer myself. Those are some great looking dive bills.

are you positive its an 1/8 th of an inch? That seem thick for stainless steel.

You have to read the articles. Last time I looked at the pictures I got Carpel tunnel syndrome.

playboy!

It doesn't get better than TU! The best minds in the world are here and we are not trying to sell a product.

rhahn, it must have been down for a little while. That is how I found 10 results. Anyhow, I'll try to help with your first post. 1) I was wondering what the differences were among air brushes? Single and double action. Single action is like a spray can, double action you can alter your air and paint intake for fades and stuff like that. 2) Also, what air brush do you really need to paint lures and what are the best ones to buy? I have used a Badger 150 since college, 20 years ago. Perfect and durable. Once you get further into what you want you can get an illustrators gun or stay put with the Badger.

a search of airbrushes on this site will bring you 10 threads that will answer your question.

At present there are 118 views and only 8 posts on this thread. I wonder how many views were old men misreading the title?

This thread is hilarious! First on my list would be having to go to work with not enough time to make baits. OR testing a new lure, wear out the fish with it, then hang it up and can't get it back when you havn't written down any information about it. That sucks.

Roll the fillets in cornmeal and deep fry for 8 minutes. Sorry, it was there for the taking.

for me I prefer the bigger thread bite of a hand made hook hanger. The commercial screw eyes don't seem to have enough to grab with inside the lure. Making your own also gives you the freedom to custom sizes and the option to make it a complete through wire bait. There used to be a tutorial concerning making your own hangers. I use a small hook like the ones used to hang plants with and put it in my drill, cut a length of wire and loop over the hook. I hold the two tag ends with a pair of pliers and run the drill on low speed till it twists up. Its easier than I made it sound.

Dean, you should be a motivational speaker. You are always positive, and that is a great help.

to spray a thicker paint like white back out the needle a little. I use a badger and it has two adjustments in the back under the handle. If I remember correctly the Paache has two also. One tightens in the needle and the other one will back it out a little. Make sure the needle is snug and then back the tension out a half turn or more. It is hard to explain without showing you.

yeah, now we can't direct new guys to the search button. Since the article and TU referance in the magazine this month we will get a ton of "How do I make a crankbait?" questions and nowhere to send them. I had some good info in my personal messages that I lost too. Maybe the Vodkaman got lost too!

Tally, I think the tutorials got lost when the other service shut TU down. I can't find them.

Here is an addendum to Coley's message. Don't look at your angle settings on your scroll saw. I set up a new scroll saw, leveled it out to zero degrees and cut 12 crankbaits with the lip 4 degrees off. 12 baits to the garbage. Be sure to measure the blade to a triangle to find square. Doing it manually is the only way to find true square.

Where are the tutorials? Without that someone will have to start a thread of "How do you guys make lures?". Are the pic threads gone also?

If you can get to it before it dries you can use Denatured Alcohol for Devcon. It should be the same for etex.

If you are using the bottles with the plastic straw in it look and see if the straw is too long. The syphon could be sticking it to the bottom of the bottle. I use a Badger 150. I have had it since college and still works great for 13 years.

After you check your air supply and inline filter run a cup of Laquer thinner through your brush. I always have, it will take off the paint that water and cleaner miss. But the pulsating you are having sounds like a bad air supply.

It is usually the ones that have the best paint job that turn out to be wrong somehow. The belly weight is low in the body, it is wrapped around the hook eye. On the coffin bill bait you can see some of it sticking out. I use a one piece pvc blank to make the lure and use the line / hook tie method from the tutorial. The lips are now 1/16" Lexan. Devcon cleared. I took one out this weekend and did not use any weight in it and it just needed tuned. I think I had too much weight in the ones pictured. I make a larger model that has to have 1/8oz weight on the hook eye. I just thought I could get one a few feet deeper by adding weight in the smaller ones. Didn't work, which stinks because the paint jobs on those are pretty cool. I made 8 on top of that so I have 8 that are on the way to the garbage. All I need is to better understand the physics of a crankbait to make a more perfect bait. If I make 12 lures I have to go to the lake and tune each one. That shouldn't have to happen should it?

After all I have learned and applied from Tackleunderground the cranks that I finally post a pic of are two that run like they are drunk. I hope they post I made the file small.

The bait is 2-1/2" long and the line tie is in the nose. the lip is a round one 1-1/4" long and seated 1/2" inside the lure. It is made of pvc board with a 1/8oz weight attached to the bottom hook hanger. It runs great without hooks eventhough that won't catch many fish. Visually the lip looks seated correctly. When I get back I will post a pic of the offenders.

I have tested my crankbaits and every once in a while I get a bait that will start good then take a hard right or left and start making a big loop. Just wondered why. They don't seem to be out of line visually. I wondered if it could be excess weight, bill too small, or just operator error. Thanks.