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fatfingers

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Everything posted by fatfingers

  1. Thanks, Longball. The shaft fits into the motor coupler. (The motor has a coupler which is female). So I tried drilling the female coupler on the motor and threading in a set screw to lock down the shaft and remove the "play" in it as it turns. Because the coupler is cheap, soft metal, the set screw eventually strips and you're back to square one.
  2. Vman, it isn't that the motor fails; its the linkage. There is a bar that is inserted and it comes from the factory with a rather sloppy fit. Thus, the bar "slips" a bit every time the wheel rotates. You can balance the wheel with lure placement and other weights, but the problem is only diminished not eliminated. I've also tried shimming the area where the center axis bar is inserted into the motor (that's where the sloppy fit is located). It is at best a temporary fit. I've also dismantled the motor and tried to make adjustments to the fit by way of a set screw. Because of the cheap metals used on that particular portion of the linkage between the motor and the center axis bar, it is also only a temporary fix. It is not really a function of the motor's lack of capacity to handle the weight of the lures, nor does the motor burn up and stop functioning.
  3. fatfingers

    Rocket Shad

    Enamels, mostly pearls. About 6 inches long, unweighted, cut from poplar.
  4. fatfingers

    Rocket Shad

    Enamels, mostly pearls. About 6 inches long, unweighted, cut from poplar.
  5. fatfingers

    Rocket Shad

    Createx acrylic irridescents, cut from poplar, about 6 inches long, unweighted.
  6. fatfingers

    Rocket Shads

    Firetiger with British metallic green over aluma yellow pearl. Done in enamels, slightly forward weighted. About 6 inches long; from poplar
  7. fatfingers

    Rocket Shad

    Can be cast or trolled. Dark firetiger, cut from poplar. Tail-weighted.
  8. I also sand between coats only when I have an flaw of some type that I wish to remove by sanding. I also apply the second and third coats within 24 hours, usually within 8 or 9.
  9. fatfingers

    7" trout glider

    At a glance, you can see how much work is in that lure. Fine bait!
  10. fatfingers

    big cranks

    Great work, Mangeboy. I like the middle one the best. It would get destroyed by the muskies on my waters.
  11. I'll second the notion of jigging spoons. I think they are one of the most underused and effective baits out there. I've used them for walleye and smallmouth bass (from a boat) and had a blast with them. I also use them while ice fishing. Once you figure out how the fish wanted them jigged, you can usually get some quick action. I like silver or gold Hopkins Spoons, but I have some others too.
  12. fatfingers

    Copper "Gyro Shad"

    Amazing as always, Tig.
  13. fatfingers

    Sexy Shad

    You do great work, collin.
  14. Nice looking bait and apparently the fish agree with me.
  15. First off, your bait is really beautiful. Your choice of colors and the fades are great. As to the way it runs, it is probably the way the lip was applied. It may be canted to one side or the other or it may be that the line tie is too far forward. We all have failures from time to time so you are not alone. That you would be afraid to throw one of your baits for fear of losing it after all the work is also something we all share. Make a bunch more and you'll find the baits you're looking for. Good luck and keep up the good work.
  16. Welcome aboard. Great site with large numbers of great people.
  17. You and my buddy, Vodkaman, are going to get along great! You two are into all this high tech engineering stuff. I think your baits are beautiful. All I know how to do is chop wood and sling paint, but I used to make wire baits with skirts. There is a material called Flashabou and another called Crystal Flash that might look good as a skirt material for those baits. Perhaps you're familiar with it already.
  18. Poplar provides a good choice overall and pine can be good if you choose a piece with smoother grain and no knots. I've used both for musky and they're hard to beat.
  19. Unweighted deep-diver with a basic Tennesse shad color pattern. I tested this yesterday (30th of June 2007) and it ran excellent; I was surprised that it didn't even need any "tuning." This was my first attempt at this body-style and I was lucky to get the lip right on the first try. :)Its about 8 inches long and will troll very well even at high speeds. It "hunts" slightly also.
  20. Unweighted deep-diver with a basic Tennesse shad color pattern. I tested this yesterday (30th of June 2007) and it ran excellent; I was surprised that it didn't even need any "tuning." This was my first attempt at this body-style and I was lucky to get the lip right on the first try. :)Its about 8 inches long and will troll very well even at high speeds. It "hunts" slightly also.
  21. 8 1/2 inches long, weighted to run about 3 to 4 feet down. I wanted this one to have a lot of white pearl on the sides and belly. Purple/blue flip-flop. No black was used although the flip-flop purple also gives the appearance of black from certain angles.
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