fatfingers

I'll try to post a picture of how I'm doing the slots for both the 1/8 and the 1/16 lexan. It'll probably make it a lot easier to understand. I'm sure there are better, faster ways, but I'm using what few tools I have on hand and its working for me. I also have a tip for aligning the lip in the slot that I'd like to illustrate with the camera too. Gotta get a few things done first, but I'll try to get to it. I'm running like a mad man right now as usual. Seems like I always try to get 25 hours out of a day.

The table saw makes a perfect slot for the 1/8 stuff. For the 1/16 lexan (polycarbonate) lips I use the bandsaw. It requires two cuts just slightly separated, then you run the blank back through to cut the little bit left between the two cuts. Works out great, but you should practice on some scrap 4 or 5 times first till you get the feel for it. Its really easy though, just give it a try on your bandsaw. I use the 1/8 stuff for bigger baits, but sometimes I use the 1/16 stuff on bigger baits to get a really tight vibration. It can be tough at times because the thinner stuff has a tendency to flex a little bit when you make a bigger lip for a bigger bait...but when you get it right with the thinner lexan, the muskies will tear that monkey up. The vibration is incredible. Lots of strikes right at the boat.

Most of my baits start out with flat planks of wood. I cut the shape of the bait, then cut the lip slot on a bandsaw (for thinner lip slots) or on a table saw for 1/8 lip slots. That way the bait lays perfectly flat and the slot is perfectly square. I then put a small piece of scrap polycarbonate in the lip slot, but a small piece, only about as wide as the bait, so that when I paint it won't get in the way. Upon completion of the painting, I remove the scrap piece of polycarbonate from the slot and glue in the final lip. Hope that helps.

I see... I see crying children in your future. "Mom! Dad keeps gluing my toys together and he won't give them back!":eek:

Foil can be difficult to apply to round tapering baits. As to the application, when after you push it down in the middle with your thumb and begin to roll it over the round edges, try working from the nose to the tail of the lure body, very slightly stretching the foil as you go. But don't try to roll it all the way over the top (or bottom) of the bait all at once. Instead roll and stretch it from nose to tail, then go back from tail to nose, each time stretching it just a little bit.

Foiling with the furnace tape requires a little bit of practice but not much really. Peel the backing, then hold the ends and very slightly stretch the foil to remove the fine lines created when you remove the backing. Place the tape on the lure. Carefully smooth it using your thumb, starting in the middle of the tape out to the edges of the bait. Finally smooth it over the top and bottom of the bait and trim the excess right down the middle of the back and then the bottom using a razor knife. I use an Xacto knife, but any razor knife will do. Use the smooth side of a pencil or permanent marker to burnish any small wrinkles remaining on the top and bottom near the seams.

One thing you might consider trying is placing all those various lips on a scanner to store them as a jpeg file. After you scan them you can simply pull them back up and print them. That would preclude your having to trace them one at a time onto paper. Also once they are stored in a file you can pull them up and resize them very easily.

I don't know which one I like better, the shape of the lip or the shape of the bait. Can't wait to try them both. Do you seal inside the slot with wood sealer or clear coat material?

Go to the to right hand side of this page and type in "getting started" in the Search Forums box. You'll get 265 threads or so. This is the place for info. A great bunch of guys and TONS of information.

Count your blessings. At least you had a chance at salvage if the baits under clear at the time it hits the deck. Last summer, after spending about 6 hours painting, I was walking back from the garage to the house with 8 freshly painted baits hanging from a dowel rod. I tripped and they hit the concrete driveway. A cloud of profanity hangs over my driveway to this day.

Devcon is clearly superior to the finish applied to some of the most popular over-the-counter commercial bait makers out there. If Devcon fails, the entire bait would be destroyed using the materials that some of the big boys use.

For painting larger baits, a small pair of vice grips can be clamped onto one of the hook hangers. The vice grips handle is secure and allows you to turn the bait as you paint it. It allows you to sit down and move the bait or turn it over instead of standing over the bait as you paint. Walmart sells a very small pair of vice grips for $2.00. Check in the hardward department. The vice grips also work great for holding the bait by a hook hanger while applying the final clear coat of expoxy or envirotex.

Lol, I didn't have to think of anything, she was coming up with ideas on her own as we we're leaving the store and walking across the parking lot! Actually, for Valentines Day last year, I made her a heart-shaped key fob from lexan. I foiled it and etched her name into it, cleared it, and put an eyescrew into the top with a split ring and a key ring . She loved it.

Anyone that would put his baits is water is nuts. They're just waaaay too pretty to for that.

Vman, I just bought a bench grinder for making stainless steel lips. Don't ask me why, but I wanted to give them a try so I jumped up and bought the grinder this afternoon. Got a nice one on sale at Sear's and got another $15 bucks off for using their charge card...came out to $27. Yeeehaaww. Next on the list is a lathe for making jerkbaits and gliders. This stuff is nuts.

It all fun , no matter how you do it. I always joke with my friends about lure making...I tell them you can buy a musky bait for about $15 or you can make one yourself for about $25.

Skeeter, that sounds great. How 'bout a picture?

Ro, I understand what you're saying. My post was in keeping with what he said here: Also he did inquire about airbrushes which led me to believe he wants the things he needs to right out of the chute. If you're going to buy what you need, then...buy what you need.

Sounds like your sincerely interested, if you're willing to plan that far ahead. Its a great way to get through winter. This website is better than any dvd you'll ever find. It's all here. What will you need? The list is long but I'll get it started. I'm sure I'll forget a dozen or so essentials, but... Bandsaw Benchtop belt sander with 4 inch belt Tablesaw *not necessary but sure is nice for cutting lip slots Drill and/or drill press Airbrush...I'd go with Iwata right out of the gate Compressor with regulator Heat gun or propane torch Rulers in centimeters for accuracy Gram scale is nice for weighing weights accurately Drying wheel (search this, you can build one for a song) Dremel or other rotary tool and assorted bits Paint booth (search again) if you'll paint indoors Aside from that you'll need Xacto knife and a zillion blades so buy them in quantity. Screw eyes for hook hangers and line tie, polycarbonate sheets if you're going to cut your own lips, but you can order them from several sources Paint in a variety of colors. You'll want to clear with either Devcon 2 ton epoxy, which is available form Walmart, or envirotex which can be had in craft stores, like Michaels. Sandpaper in various grades. And that's just the begining. Run away while you stll can.

I bought a Record last year. One of the two best reels I've ever owned and I've owned a bunch.

Did you primer it before painting?