borderbasser

Delw, Will it discolor the plastic if it is just added to the bag? Are there any other scents out there than can be added to the plastic that won't cause the plastic to discolor? What about procure? It seems to be popular with many of the guys on this site. Thanks for the help Delw. TJ

OK, another newbie question. I noticed yesterday, that my motor oil worms that I poured about 10 days ago have started to fade from a greenish color to more of a faded brownish green, but I don't think it is an issue with the coloring. It is a mixture of LC and Del motor oil with some LC signal grn in Cal. plastic. I am also adding about 6-8 drops of Kickn' Bass per 4 oz. hot plastic, as well as a few drops of KB and a shot of Pam to the bag. I also spray Pam in the mold for each pour to make them shinny. I don't see an immediate discoloration in the plastic. It does change after a period of time though. I know a lot of people use the KB and the Pam, and I have heard that some have a problem with it once it is reheated, but these are not reheats. The only other thing that I can think of is, I am storing these baits in regular zip-lock bags. I have some anise on order, and I plan to replace the Pam with the anise to see if that is my problem. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! TJ

I'm pretty new at this too, but I've got just enough experience now to give you a little advice. The mold you are referring to is probably a two piece mold. IMO,2 piece molds are just slightly more difficult to pour than a 1piece, but the senko mold is probably about as easy as it comes. The alum. molds are superior, but if you look in the tutorials, you can find out how to make a 2 piece mold from plaster. I made a 5 cavity senko mold using the technique mentioned in the tutorial and it was a success! And real cheap! Hope this helps. TJ

OOOPS! What I meant to say, is that it may seem that the colors are somewhat opaque, but they are very translucent, to the extend that the colors actually almost blend into one. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! TJ

Sorry it took me a while to get the pics posted. I finaly got back to town this week! I know the TJ

Thanks Woodsac. I kinda figured the shrinkage might be a problem with the resin. Do you think I'll need a release agent like Vaseline on the master with the plaster? If so, will it affect the detail of the mold or leave an undesirable finish? Would you recommend a different release agent? Thanks for the quick response! TJ

I just made a sassy shad type bait with a split belly like a Zoom Fluke out of wood and I need to mold it just like a one piece fluke mold. What should I use...plaster or resin? Also, depending on which method, should I seal the master with some acrylic? The tail section of the bait is somewhat fragile and I was also concerned with demolding the wooden master without breaking it so I can use it again. Should I use some sort of release agent, and if so, what kind, and can it be used on resin or plaster? Thanks for all you guys help! TJ

submitted by: Borderbasser 4 oz. plastic 9 drops LC motor oil 4 drops Del motor oil 4 drops LC signal grn. med. or sm. red flake to taste I had over 2 limits on this bait yesterday, one limit over 20lbs.! (10in. worm)

GB, Thanks for the offer. I'm gonna be on the water the next couple of days, but I'll try to send you a couple ASAP. I haven't checked yet, but if your shipping address is not on your .com, you can e-mail me at wiskeyunit167@yahoo.com. I'll also post a few pics, but I think it is gonna be tough. It is a laminated bait, but it is very difficult to see the two different colors without holding it up to a light. I wasn't even sure it was a laminated bait until just the other day through closer examination. Thanks a million for the help! TJ

Alright guys, I don't have much hair in my head left(or plastic) after trying to duplicate this one. Is any one familiar with this color? If so, I would greatly appreciate ANY help. I would post a picture, but I dont think the pic would give an accurate representation of the color. If any of you "superpourers" would be interested, I'll send you a few production baits in the mail, along with a little cash for your troubles, plastic, etc. if you would like to take a stab at it. I'm pretty desperate, since this color is the reason I started pouring my own baits in the first place. In the meantime I'll keep trying. As always, thanks in advance!

My bad Brad. I didn't realize it was "poorboy" and not "pourboy". Sorry for the confusion. By the way Brad, I looked at YOUR site the other day. Awesome Beavers!

I placed an order with LC about two weeks ago. The man I talked to said he had just bought the business. He said that he was the same guy who has PourBoyPlastics. It took about a week and a half to get my order shiped due to their moving of the business, but he seemed like a friendly guy to do business with.

I appreciate the help Del. Just wanted to say I think (from what I can tell on your site) your products are top notch. I should be getting my AL mold in the next few days. I can't wait to try it out! TJ

I know a lot of people say that the smell of Kickin' Bass will cook out if you add it to the hot plastic. Is that prior to heating, after heating, or does it matter? Also, has anyone tried to brush it into the molds like a release agent? Will it absorb into the plastic without cooking off much of the scent? I would do these tests myself, but I am new to pouring and I will not recieve my materials until this weekend. I have experimented with melting down some old zoom worms, but I wanted to wait and try the scents with the new plastic. Thanks in advance fellas. TJ JFI...I'm new to this whole pouring thing, but I can see this becoming the most addictive hobby I've ever had! I think I probably speak for all the rookies out there when I say thank you to all you guys who keep this forum so informative, and active :!:

I recently made a 2 piece copy of a 10in power worm out of plaster. I figured out that you have to pour the tail first and then put the mold together. However, when I tried this, I couldn't get the mold together fast enough to get the body to fuse to the tail very well. This method sure seems like a big pain in the A#$. Is there another way? I have read the thread about using a bucket and a shop vac to create a vac cum chamber, but that seems like an even bigger pain. Has anyone experimented with creating a positive pressure environment in the mold..ie pressurizing the mold to force the plastic into the tail. Here is my idea. Drill a tiny hole near the tip of the tail and scribe a fine line from the tip to the hole to allow the air to escape. Then, pour enough plastic in the mold, that in theory, when the plastic is forced up in the tail the static height of the plastic in the body will be above that of the tip of the tail (if you don't do this, when you remove the source of the pressure, the plastic will U-tube back down until the height is equalized between the body and tail). Once the plastic has been forced into the tail, finish pouring the bait. The only question is what is the source of pressure? I'm sure it would only have to be a few pounds and very little volume. I thought that one of those things that parents use to suck the buggers out of a baby's nose(nose bulb) might work. Just stick it inside the tapered pour hole until it makes a pretty good seal, and squeeze. The only problem I can foresee, is a flashing problem, but I think if you seal the edges of the mold with tape, this might remedy that problem. Anyway, what do you guys think? Anyone ever tried this or something similar with any success? Thanks fellas. PS: I have only posted a few times, but would just like to say that this is the best, most informative, and friendly forum I have ever been on. Thanks for all the help!

I am fixing to place and order for some materials. I think I'm gonna to buy Calhoun plastic, but not sure what brand to buy as far as colors. I have heard a lot of dislike for LC, but they do have a good selection. I fish primarily with grn. pump, pump, watermelon, rootbeer, motor oil(Berkley),....pretty much all the browns and greens, but sometimes the occasional blue fleck or junebug. I've heard there are a lot of variances in color from one company to another. Can anyone with a lot of experience with LC turn me on to the colors I would need to accomodate my colors prefrences. Also, if there is anyone with a lot of experience with any of the other companies colors, your in put would be appreciated. Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm kinda on a budget and I don't want to waste a lot of money on crap. Thanks fellas!

I feel your pain! I'm lookin' for it too. There are a lot of "camo" colors out there, but only one berkley camo. If you find it, let me know, and I'll do the same. Also looking for Berkley Crawdad Candy.

Thanks for the help. I got anxious and already put it back together with devcon..seems to work out allright. I just poured my first worm with it but I can't get it to flow up into the tip of the tail. Finally, I poured the tail first, and then put the mold together and poured the rest of the bait, but it didn't fuse 100%, almost though.

I made a 2 cavity, 2 piece mold of a 10in worm last night out of Wel-Cote water putty (no durhams in my area). I mixed it pretty thick like cake batter and both halves about 3/4in thick. The mold turned out great, but one problem....the top half broke prying it apart. Prior to prying it apart, I let the mold set until you could hardly dent it with your fingernail. I even brushed the bottom half with vaseline before pouring the top half. Anybody have any tips for me that might aleviate this problem in the furture. Also it was a pretty clean break and I was wondering if anyone knew of an epoxy I could use to repair the mold. I tried searching this topic, but no luck. Thanks.

I am new to this site and new to worm making. In fact, I don't have any molds or materials yet, but I would like to start. Anyway, I would like to know if anyone has a color formula for Berkley Crawdad Candy and for Zoom Scumpernog, and Castaic Choice. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any experience using 2 piece molds made of plaster or similar material. I read a site explaing how to make one, but tips and pointers from other people would be appreciated. I was planning on replicating 10in and 12in power worms, large zipper style worms, along with other baits, and was wondering if the detail and quality was as good as aluminum molds. Thanks fellers.