Elken

med 0.021" heavy 0.023/0.024"

They are decent. The molded base goes into weedguard holes easier and saves time. Some of the earlier weedguards were packed too tight in shrink wrap packages and were curved; one batch had a rim around the bases like they had been cut with a hot knife, kept them from going into weedguard holes until i used a file on them. I buy these weedguards in regular colors, but still buy the multi-color weedguards from Kayser.

If you contact Fishingskirts.com directly you can buy 1000 packs of their weedguards at bulk prices. He doesn't have that option on the website.

I might be interested in a couple so that I can retire the drill bit wrapped in tape.

I use a cake cooling rack custom bent to give clearance to the jigheads and fit in the ovens rack slots. With 3 jigheads per section of wire it holds 54 jigheads.

Gamikatsu 594 I believe

I pretty much gave upon the smaller fiber weedgaurds and have been putting nylon coated cable weedguards in the 1/8 oz. PT jigheads. When I did have to use the 5/64" fiber weedguards, I have been using the drill bit with a little bit of tape on it to hold it in the mold, same as Ted.

I have gold, silver, red and chartreuse; silver and gold are the most requested with red coming in third. I only use the chartreuse eyes occasionally.

Cabela's has them; Northland brand Roach Walker Sinkers. I haven't seen any molds to make them... Forum won't let me post the picture... http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/Terminal-Tackle/Weights|/pc/104793480/c/104779980/sc/104685480/Northland-Roach-Walker-Sinkers/1208846.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ffishing-terminal-tackle-weights%2F_%2FN-1100373%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104685480%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104793480%253Bcat104779980&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104793480%3Bcat104779980%3Bcat104685480

I measured one and it looks like a hair under 3-1/8" from front of hook eye to back of bend.

VMC Barbarians are 90 degrees, sharp and strong; they are a little longer than most 90 degree hooks. They may not fit in the mold without some modification.

I bought some reclaimed shot off e-bay a few years ago to try and melt it down for jighead lead. I was still using a Hot pot then; I had a hard time getting it to melt and it seems like it had a lot of oxidation on it. If I used a bigger cast iron pot and tried fluxing it I might have better luck. Other than the little bit I tried to melt, the box of shot is still sitting out in the shop somewhere....

Did you look at the skip-cut silicon? It is continuous with uncut sections every 5.5". You can tie or band at an uncut section, cut the strands at the next uncut sections above and below and have a skirt 10" - 11" long.

I bought some of the Roadkill paint. It isn't very close to Roadkill color; too much black, not enough green. A little spendy, but it is nice paint and works fine. I have been using it as "Black Gold" paint on jigheads used with dark black and/or gold skirts.

I use Threadmaster too; I used to use U40 LS Supreme and I like the Threadmaster better.

Both molds are sold; thanks

You can buy replacement inserts from Hilts/Dolphin, at least you could 3 or 4 years ago. Hilts Website If anyone is interested, I have two of the Hilts bullet sinker molds that I would sell: LMBULLET Mold: 1/8 oz., 1/4 oz., 3/8 oz., and 1/2 oz. cavities; has one wire that needs replaced; $17.50 + $4.95 shipping LMBL-M Mold: 1/8 oz., 3/16 oz., 1/4 oz., and 5/16 oz. cavities; $20.20 + $4.95 shipping If interested, Email me

The round bend are heavier hooks than the wide gaps, but you can get smaller sizes into the mold without mods. If you could pour up to 5/0 wide gap in the 3/8 oz. cavity, with the round bend you can get 4/0. I did put a RB hook in one cavity and when it wouldn't quite close tight, I tapped it with a hammer to let the hook eye open up the hook eye area of the mold the little bit it needed.

Cutting a slot for the weedguards will work:

Here is a Poison Tail jighead with the Mustad 32886bln:

Here is a website that converts almost any measurements: Online Conversion Program

I put a set of Recoil spinning guides on a dropshot rod a couple years ago. The bottom guide developed a tendency to rotate left or right under the thread wraps, so I figured that I must not have wrapped the thread tight enough. I cut the epoxy and thread off and found that the wire had broke at the very end of the "toe" of the guide foot; I had filed it down to make a nice smooth ramp for the thread and evidently filed it too thin. If I clamp the two halves together, the guide does not rotate; if I try to wrap them as is, they twist and allow the guide to rotate. My question is: Can I silver solder the nickel-titanium guide material? Or is there a better way to re-connect the two halves of the guide foot before I re-wrap it? I can buy a new guide, but the larger Recoils aren't cheap and I am on a budget...

Other than the 28 degree Mustad 91768 hooks, the Mustad 38108 and Mustad 38109 are probably as close as you are going to get. They are 45 degree hooks, but will fit in 60 degree molds; they are also flat eye design, so they won't fit in regular eye 60 degree molds without modification.

This one? GLCFishing.com - Adding innovation, value, and quality to the sportfishing industry

Check to see if the cap that holds the pawl against the worm drive is loose. It sounds like the pawl is only making intermittant contact with the worm drive. It is the small black cap under the front part of the reel; the piece it sits on moves over the worm gear. If it isn't loose, you might look inside to see if the pawl is damaged or the spacers missinng. I have had the pawls wear down and act like this, but it was on a steelhead reel that had lots of use. I added some shim stock to help the pawl make contact until I could buy a new pawl. Your reel is way too new to have a worn out pawl.