Camel1918

Hey guys I have to agree with Cranky Fish. I use the plastic body scrubs that you can find all over. They have a nice scale pattern and since they are a little stretchy you can make the scale pattern different even on the same bait by pulling tighter or looser and changing the diameter and shape of the holes. it works great.

I know that the guys that build the acrylic computer cases use a small torch and quickly run it over the edges. It is a practiced art not to hold it in one spot too long. I don't know it it would work on something as small as a lip though. I'll have to give it a try.

Tally great job! It's nice to see old dog can learn new tricks. Really, I guess that's what this site is all about. I'll be looking forward to seeing it painted up. It should be a killer bait. Camel1918

Cranky, Check out this compressor. I have this one and am very pleased. http://www.airbrushcity.com/2g12f.htm

Thanks Bob, Couldn't have said it better myself. I hope that helps. I also run Windex through it between paints and then back flush. What that does is blow the air backwards into the cup or jar. I use a cup to paint with grav fed but then use the jar for cleaning. Good luck

Ok.. this is what I've learned from roaming around the airbrush sites. To reduce the cheaper paints and even the better ones use Windex. The cheaper paints are coarser so what you do is go down to the paint store and pick up a paper screen filter. Sometimes they just give them away free. You want the one that has a screen in it. They also sell ones that are all screen and you can cut them up and place them on the top of your paint bottle and then screw the top back on. Then when you squeeze out your paint it is already filtered. Womens hose can also be used but I find it is too restricting of paint flow. The Windex evaporates much better than water and leaves a nice finish. Don't forget to back flow between colors to clean out brush. Hope this helps.

I do it like RiverMan explained. However sometimes with balsa I don't even Dremel out a channel, I just lay the wire in and then glue the two halves together using a vise with a little pressure. The balsa will conform to the wire and you don't even have to worry about the channel. Also you usually want the weight as low as possible so it usually doesn't bother the through wire. If so just do as others suggested, run it a little higher in the body. I've never found that it throws the weight off. Good luck

Jerry, Sorry about the mess. I was lost without the site. I had to check every day to see if it was back up. I was having withdrawals. I know that with all the great talent and individuals that are regulars here on the site it will be back to business as usual with even better material for those looking for help with our addiction. LOL Glad we are back up again. Missed you guys.

Castmaster, I just double side tape the two pieces together and cut it out and rough shape it. Then I can measure for the wire and lay it between the two halves, along with the weight if you prefer then epoxy. I usually add the weight after I've epoxied it. You have a nice center line around the bait so your sure to get it in the middle from side to side. I use one of those slip sinkers with the rubber band toothpicks to hold it on the line. They already have a hole through the center and are a great shape. I just bore out the hole that already runs through it a little to fit the belly wire through and insert it in the belly hole that I've drilled and epoxy. You don't have to worry about it ever coming out no matter how much you pull.

Yes I just had that problem with a bait. I had the bill too long and the tie to close to the nose. I solved the problem by just sanding down the nose of the bill some and made it into a coffin bill. Runs great now.

Same here. I use two halves and then just epoxy them together. I've never had a problem yet.

You guys using this link? http://home.insightbb.com/~hustlerlure3/index.html

:grin: I know this is an old thread but I just had to add my two cents worth. I generally am making bass cranks, usually out of balsa but lately out of PVC. The method I use makes finding the center effortless. I usually make my flat sides 1/2" wide on a 2 1/2" long lure. The thing is I use two pieces of 1/4" stock and glue them together. This makes finding the center line as simple as just looking at the bait. It also makes through wire baits a lot easier to make. Most of the time I simply double side tape the two pieces together to cut out the shape and then glue them together. I never have to worry about getting my loop holes centered or centering the weight because the line is perfect all the way around. Like someone else said it also makes sanding and shaping the bait easier because you have a center line to judge and eyeball. Like I said I know this was an old post but I hope maybe this helps some. Camel1918

Thanks, I've found that if I just use a fine sandpaper and make sure I scuff up all of the surface when I epoxy the two sides together that I have no problems. I found that I don't have to put on a thin layer first. It holds just fine. I ran off a batch of ten baits and glued them up just last night. I want to finish the one in the pic which by the way is not yellow as the picture shows but is a nice white color. Camel1918

Husky, Great read and thanks for the info on the other forum. I tried the photobucket site and so I'll try it again. Camel1918

Well, I can't upload the picture. Guess I'm doing something wrong here. Sorry

Here is a pick of the first one I did. The colors came out a little yellow, I think because of the lighting. Still have to figure out that out. I need to reread some post about it. Anyway here it is. Camel1918