BruceKY

I have tied a hand full of inline spinner-baits with marabou. I used bloodquill feathers on a coil. I simply tied the base of the quill to the coil starting from the back of the coil and worked forward. Basically the same method you would use to tie buck tail. My problem is when the lure is wet the stems of the feathers stick out and don’t look natural. I have not had the luxury of dissecting a store bought lure. After watching some you-tube videos on tying marabou jigs I have seen a technique where the end of the feather is attached to the jig then wrapped around the hook shaft and secured with a few wraps of thread around the base of the quill. Will this technique work on a coil for large musky sized in-lines. I would give it a try but it is too cold in the garage where I work. I would think the wrapped coil would not give a large profile needed for the large musky spinner. What technique do you guys use? Thanks, Bruce

Most of those would sell for $10-$15 retail. The mantas might draw more.

Here is a short list Power tools: Band Saw, Belt sander, Drill press, Hand drill, Rotary tool, Router, Air compressor, Air Brush, Turning wheel, Hair dryer Hand tools: Sanding blocks, sand paper, scrapers, chisels, wire cutters, round nose pliers, lineman’s pliers, flat file, 6” scale, combination square, angle finder, C clamps, Hand screw clamps, exacto knife handles Most wanted that I do not have: Table saw Dont forget the computer, printer, and digital camera

DSV My set up is very similar to what Mark has and works fine at 1RPM. The key is to not put the epoxy on too thick. Bruce

Pete I personally feel that having lead in one, two, or more places does not inherently change the side to side action of a glide bait. I try to imagine how the balance of the lure is affected relative to the center of buoyancy. Kelly alluded to this talking about the X axis. The Z axis is important too. I am not concerned where the lead is end to end as long as the lure sinks level. I am more concerned with where the lead is top to bottom. I try to keep the lead up high in the body near the center so that it will pivot around the Z axis or wobble after the glide and while sinking. There is an argument to be made that if a glider is weighted in one central point the ends will be lighter and pivot more easily around center. This is true in many applications, but I do not think it is a factor in water at the relatively slow speeds we are talking about. I think the drag on the lure as it passes through the water is a much greater force. Look at a Manta for instance. It is weighted in one point and has a long sweeping glide. The tail has a lot to do with this but the symmetrical body also allows it to glide gracefully. In this case I think the drag of the water on the lure has the most impact. Conversely a short flat sided lure like a magic maker or a Cobb’s crazy shad pivot easily around the Z axis giving the lure a quick side to side “walk the dog” action. To answer your question I think it is easier to use a dual or multiple lead placement approach. The best part is when you are testing the lure it is very easy to remove lead with a drill from each end to fine tune the sink rate and keep it level. Bruce

Most of the time I use thinned epoxy to get down into the holes, strait epoxy to cover-up or fill holes, and I have used a filler material similar to bondo to fill big holes.

I went back to Michaels. They don't seem to carry the createx clear and the girls I talked to knew very little about it. I did pick up a can of Krylon "UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating". The can says it dries in 10-15 min and is "moisture-resistant". I will let everyone know how it works when it warms up enough to paint in the garage.

Thanks I looked at Michaels and didnt see it. I will have to ask next time.

What make of clear do some of you use between layers of water based createx. I would like to have something I could spray over layers of createx that will dry quickly and allow the next layer to be wiped off if I ever made a mistake. LOL I could use epoxy but that is too thick in most cases and takes too long to dry. Thanks in advance, Bruce

wavewalker2006 I do use them just like bull dawgs. They should hold up better though. Here is a picture of the wire coils. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=1909