cranker

Sorry guys,If I had known this stuff was going to suddenly start disappearing from these stores I would not have brought it up.I am wandering why all the sudden people are not carrying it! The stuff works like a charm and after using it I am convinced it is the exact same formula as the Drop Out spray.I will check back locally today and see if I can find more of it and if so I will let you know.

I picked mine up at a Home Depot store but you can find it online just do a search and you will find several sources to get it.The jigaloo web site also list stores that carry it ,maybe find one close to you and have them order you some if you want to pick it up locally.

I definately will.

Thanks for the info on Zeiners,I was not really aware of them until now and I was about to order two new molds myself this weekend.Looks like with their pricing I will definately be ordering mine from them from now on.I can buy the molds with shipping for about what everyone else gets just for the molds!

I did the same modification on a do-it 3/8 oz roundhead jig by drilling a small hole thru the center of the head on each side of the mold then put very small screws thru and put lockwashers and nut on the threaded part of the screw on the outside of the mold.I used jb weld to fill in the screwdriver slot on the screwheads.It has worked great so far over several hundred pours. With that being said be very sure you really want the recessed eye sockets for good because once you put a hole thru your mold its there for good! I have since decided its not really worth adding eyesockets because now you just about have to use the stick on eyes for the jig to look rite and the eyes really has'nt made a difference other than it looks good.I catch the same fish on my jigs without the eye.Just something to think about.

Cadman,I bought mine at Home Depot but according to the jig a loo website there are several popular stores that carry it.Their website is jigaloo.com and the product is called Graphite Extreme. I really think it is about the same exact formula as drop out,it looks the same,smells the same and works the same.I coated the old mold with it this morning and it dried in just a couple of minutes and I started pouring and was amazed at what happened,the mold poured out better than ever and I think better than with drop out! I paid $ 1.49 for the 6oz. can. Hopes this helps and I think you will be impressed at the results.I am also all for cheaper and all for buying something local instead of ordering and paying outrageous shipping costs!

I wanted to inform everyone I ran across a product today called (Jig-a-loo Graphite Extreme) which is a graphite aerosol spray! I have been using drop out like most everyone else here uses but wanted to try this stuff because for me shipping alone is more than the can of drop out. Label says for high temp applications up to 985 deg. and sprays on black and dries very quickly and works like a charm.I tested this stuff on a older do-it mold I had which had been modified and was very hard to get complete pours in,and it worked like a charm! Costed me $1.49 for a 6oz. can at a local hardware store but I also found it online after I started looking into this stuff. Maybe this is something some of you may want to look into trying.This may be something others have already talked about here but I was excited to find a cheaper alternative that actually works and can be easily gotten.

Thanks guys ,I am going to try the ones janns netcraft sells.They look close in the pictures so maybe they will work for me,I normally buy my skirt material from skirts unlimited but they dont even sell a motor oil! I also ran across the company called Hagens online and have ordered a catalog from them because it looks like they have a few good colors that are hard to find also.

I have searched high and low looking for true motor oil colored silicone skirt material like the zoom motor oil color worms.Does anyone have a clue as to who may have this.I have checked with all the skirt material dealers and some have a color they are calling motor oil but its not even close to the zoom motor oil color.any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys, I did think about using jb weld because I have used it before to modify molds but in this case it wont work because filling in where the flat spot should be would block the fill hole.I just went to harbor freight and picked up the 3" mini bench grinder with a fine grit wheel so maybe it will do the trick.I will let you know how it turns out.

I have recently purchased a do it mold # SRH-6M-SLA ,round head shaky jig mold. I am trying to figure out a way to modify the mold to have the flat stand up head to keep from snipping and grinding each head to achieve this.Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this and if not I would love to hear from someone else who may have already been doing this as to what you are using to trim the jig head and such,I done a test pour to have a few heads to experiment with and used side snip pliers to cut the flat spot but doing this leaves a ridge across the middle that still needs to be ground.I just dont see a way to modify the mold for this and need some advice.Thanks

Read my post about permanent mold cavity filling here.JB weld works great and is perfect for projects like you are talking about.Just let it set for 10 to 15 minuted or so after you mix the two parts to allow it to start setting up or when you make your new cavity with the jig head it will want to stick and pull out some of the JB when you remove the jig you are using to form the new cavity shape.

O.K. guys,I used the JB Weld to fill the unwanted cavitys in my mold and wanted to report the results to maybe help some of you out.Bottom line is it worked perfectly! I mixed the two parts real good and let it set for maybe 10 minutes or so to let it get kind of gummy then applied into the unwanted areas of my mold cavity by dabbing it in with a toothpick.The toothpick allowed me to get a small gob at a time into the cavity without having allot of extra to clean out,it went in well and stayed where I built it up without any running or sagging.I then let it set up for about 24 hours which made it very hard which allowed me to gently sand it smooth so the mold would close properly and sanding was really easy as well.I have made several pours with no problems at all,the jb stayed in and seems to be holding very well.Also after reading the packaging it states that the cured product will withstand up to 600 deg. which is plenty for pouring hot lead without breaking down the weld.For mold repair and cavity filling this is the stuff to use but I dont know how well it would hold up for those wanting to do a major mold overhaul with it,it sets up great but is by no means truly as hard as steel like they state.It sands very easily but looks like it would be very brittle if you really went to doing serious machining on it.I do think after using the stuff and seeing how it reacts that one could actually use it to build a custom mold which may be my next project to try! People talk about making lead molds with plaster of paris and JB is much harder and more stable than plaster.Thanks for all the help with this and maybe my input on the actual results will help some of you out with similar needs.

Thanks Cadman,I will give that a try and let you know how it works.JB just may do the trick,I did'nt think about trying that.

I have a couple of do-it jig molds that came with the barb bait keeper molded into the mold.I do not like the barb style they use so I modified my molds and put my own style barb cavity in.The mold works fine and the mold modification worked like a charm so I would like to some way permanantly fill the factory barb cavity to prevent having to snip off the barb after pouring.Does anyone know of anything to use to patch out the barb cavity that would stay in the mold.The molds are aluminum of course but I am unaware of any products that one could use as a permanent fill and hold up to the heat of pouring hot lead. I know it could require sanding or filing to keep the mold closing smoothly,anyone know of any products for this or have any ideas?

Does anyone here have a or know of a good source for Hole in One skirts ? I found the Accent web site which makes the skirts but they show them not available for some reason.I know they are available somewhere!!!!!!!!I have been hand tying all my skirts but after seeing some jigs with those on them I am considering trying them but cant find a source for them.

O.K. guys,I appreciate all the help.I had a venting problem in my mold! Today I filed small vent channels at the new barb in my mold as Cadman brought up and that did the trick,I poured 100 jigs tonight with all 100 coming out perfect,they were flawless.Thanks for all the help.

I am using the hook Do-It reccomends for the mold ,it is the light wire mustad so I am good there.The barb I added does point upward and some of my pours are just perfect with the barb filling out fine.I will try venting the barb also and that may help some.My ladle does have the little pouring notch in it and that is where I have allot of problems with the dross trying to build up and thats why I thought maybe a bottom pour would help.I also did not know that the dross should not be building up like mine does!I have to scale the top off every time I go to dip my ladle,I have a large spoon I use for that but I have that problem even using the virgin lead from roto meatals which is I think 96% lead and 4% tin.Does it have a negative affect to have your lead too hot ? Reason I ask is because I am heating to about 850.Think I will vent my mold for the barb,try a different ladle and see what happens.I had rather buy a new ladle than the bottom pour pot but will get it if I have to to get the consistent pours.I also may just be too darn picky,I like for my jigs to come out perfect and rite now I guess about 75% are and the other 25% are being melted back down.

I am using soft lead,a combination of stick on wheel weight and soft lead from roto-metals.I am using the cheaper version Lee Ladle and pouring in a Do-It round head weedless jig mold with a 60 deg. mustad 32798 flateye. My mold has been modified,this mold has the ring and barb but the barb on a do it mold is useless because it does not hold the plastic trailer at all so I modified mine and put the barb on the opposite side of the jighead and made it more of a point.My incomplete pours are coming from this setup and biggest problem is not filling in the barb cavitys,neither the new one or the factory molded one.I tried to pour some today and tried heating up the ladle good and it did help but still had a few bad ones.I am really starting to wonder if this is just a not so good ladle because the first few pours were really good but after about 10 or 12 jigs the problem started again.I have tried my lead around 750 to around 900 deg. and it really dont make a difference.Its really getting frustrating,I am fluxing good and skim the surface between every jig pour.Its almost like the ladle gets the least bit of slag or dross on it and it just wont pour a good steady solid stream.

I am using soft lead,a combination of stick on wheel weight and soft lead from roto-metals.I am using the cheaper version Lee Ladle and pouring in a Do-It round head weedless jig mold with a 60 deg. mustad 32798 flateye. My mold has been modified,this mold has the ring and barb but the barb on a do it mold is useless because it does not hold the plastic trailer at all so I modified mine and put the barb on the opposite side of the jighead and made it more of a point.My incomplete pours are coming from this setup and biggest problem is not filling in the barb cavitys,neither the new one or the factory molded one.I tried to pour some today and tried heating up the ladle good and it did help but still had a few bad ones.I am really starting to wonder if this is just a not so good ladle because the first few pours were really good but after about 10 or 12 jigs the problem started again.I have tried my lead around 750 to around 900 deg. and it really dont make a difference.Its really getting frustrating,I am fluxing good and skim the surface between every jig pour.Its almost like the ladle gets the least bit of slag or dross on it and it just wont pour a good steady solid stream.

I am using soft lead,a combination of stick on wheel weight and soft lead from roto-metals.I am using the cheaper version Lee Ladle and pouring in a Do-It round head weedless jig mold with a 60 deg. mustad 32798 flateye. My mold has been modified,this mold has the ring and barb but the barb on a do it mold is useless because it does not hold the plastic trailer at all so I modified mine and put the barb on the opposite side of the jighead and made it more of a point.My incomplete pours are coming from this setup and biggest problem is not filling in the barb cavitys,neither the new one or the factory molded one.I tried to pour some today and tried heating up the ladle good and it did help but still had a few bad ones.I am really starting to wonder if this is just a not so good ladle because the first few pours were really good but after about 10 or 12 jigs the problem started again.I have tried my lead around 750 to around 900 deg. and it really dont make a difference.Its really getting frustrating,I am fluxing good and skim the surface between every jig pour.Its almost like the ladle gets the least bit of slag or dross on it and it just wont pour a good steady solid stream.

I am using soft lead,a combination of stick on wheel weight and soft lead from roto-metals.I am using the cheaper version Lee Ladle and pouring in a Do-It round head weedless jig mold with a 60 deg. mustad 32798 flateye. My mold has been modified,this mold has the ring and barb but the barb on a do it mold is useless because it does not hold the plastic trailer at all so I modified mine and put the barb on the opposite side of the jighead and made it more of a point.My incomplete pours are coming from this setup and biggest problem is not filling in the barb cavitys,neither the new one or the factory molded one.I tried to pour some today and tried heating up the ladle good and it did help but still had a few bad ones.I am really starting to wonder if this is just a not so good ladle because the first few pours were really good but after about 10 or 12 jigs the problem started again.I have tried my lead around 750 to around 900 deg. and it really dont make a difference.Its really getting frustrating,I am fluxing good and skim the surface between every jig pour.Its almost like the ladle gets the least bit of slag or dross on it and it just wont pour a good steady solid stream.

I am using soft lead,a combination of stick on wheel weight and soft lead from roto-metals.I am using the cheaper version Lee Ladle and pouring in a Do-It round head weedless jig mold with a 60 deg. mustad 32798 flateye. My mold has been modified,this mold has the ring and barb but the barb on a do it mold is useless because it does not hold the plastic trailer at all so I modified mine and put the barb on the opposite side of the jighead and made it more of a point.My incomplete pours are coming from this setup and biggest problem is not filling in the barb cavitys,neither the new one or the factory molded one.I tried to pour some today and tried heating up the ladle good and it did help but still had a few bad ones.I am really starting to wonder if this is just a not so good ladle because the first few pours were really good but after about 10 or 12 jigs the problem started again.I have tried my lead around 750 to around 900 deg. and it really dont make a difference.Its really getting frustrating,I am fluxing good and skim the surface between every jig pour.Its almost like the ladle gets the least bit of slag or dross on it and it just wont pour a good steady solid stream.

Thanks guys,I will try it keeping my ladel hotter and see if that helps.I do always flux my lead with candle wax and constantly skimming the top for sloss,seems like I have to skim after every scoop! Maybe I have not been keeping my ladle hot enough.I enjoy ladel pouring and had actually rather keep doing it that way but I have to cut out so many incomplete pours,that gets so frustrating I usually just cut off the pot and walk away from it for a while.

Hello all, I have been melting my lead in a Lee melter then using a ladel to fill my jig molds.The problem I have is the ladel gets dirtied up with lead and the pours are inconsistent which usually messes up several heads each time I pour because it sometimes causes incomplete pours especially in one particular mold that has been modified to have a small keeper barb.I have considered buying the small Lee production pot the bottom pour type thinking this will hive me more consistent pours but not sure.Can anyone chime in with whether or not the bottom pour type is any better or if it really makes a difference with pours? I am pouring jigs which are up to 1/2 oz. and really nothing larger.I know it sounds crazy but I really think the ladel is causing problems because once I have poured a few and start to get a little lead buildup and splatter on my ladle the problems start,I know some will say "just clean the ladel" but its hard to stop pouring every 2 or 3 minutes to clean a very hot ladel.Incomplete pours are killing me rite now on hooks!