gat0r

The main jigs I make are 1/2 and 3/4. Anyone else find it odd that do-it released two new molds with those two sizes on seperate molds. And the 3/4, 1 and 1 1/2 ounce mold does not accept the flat eye only the 1/8 to 1/2 mold does. Bladesandbaits helped me immensley to get the old football jig mold modded to accept the flat eye. We jb welded the old hookeye placement then blades cut out the eye holes. The key is to do a little at a time and check. You want to be sure you are able to close the mold snug and not see any cracks of light down through it. Mine works great. If I get around to it, I'll photograph it and show you what the custom version looks like. We also modded the weedguard to put a 1/8-inch weedguard in there and use a modified base pin (with cap cut off) in its place. Make small corrections and keep tweaking it.

I've found it at Hobby Lobby but also at hardware stores and they usually come in nifty containers that have a clipper built onto them to cut the wire off. One spool goes a long way.

Good to know about the new mustad hook Tim.

Hey Chuy, Glad you liked the article I wrote. I lurk here a bit and can speak specifically about this head and mold and hook. Unfortunately there is only a place or two to buy these heads with this hook. The problem right now is that is a special order hook and you have to buy them in some astronomical quantities (100,000). Staminainc has them but I've also found them at www.castind.com. I have them made for me by the folks at Cast to sell locally around Kentucky Lake and to my fishing friends. There are some new molds just released by Do-It (http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=28) that feature the flateye 60-degree mustad or vmc hooks. I believe Gamakatsu now makes a hook for them as well due in large part to the national shortage of the original mustad hooks. I'm using the VMC hooks now in an altered do-it mold and am very happy with them on both my football heads and my roundball finesse heads. Not sure this is the answer you were looking for. You might be able to get a custom mold made but I wouldn't do that until you figure out if Gamakatsu will sell you that hook in a quantity you can afford. Most of us buy hooks in quantities of 1,000 or 10,000. 100,000 is a bit steep for a lowly editor like me! :-) I started using these heads for the exact reason you described. It makes my trailers flare like a crawfish on guard. But I've found that I miss a lot of bites on them that I think are smallmouths so I've been experimenting with flateye round bend vmc hook for better hookups.

Okay. Do any of you make big spoons similar to big salmon trolling spoons. There was an Ultimate Match Fishing episode where Kelly Jordon ripped his opponents casting an ounce and 1/2 spoon (flat chrome) that was about 5 inches long. He would cast it out on a river ledge and flutter it up and let it fall back. He stroked them. Well we found the guy that makes them in Texas and his spoons are $7 or $8 each. If I going to spend that kind of money it might be cheaper to just get the materials and start making them myself. Any thoughts. The spoon is from Weedless Lures in texas and it's called a Big Joe.

This might be a real dumb question. Where do you get the PVC or Cardboard tubes from? A friend is starting up a business and said the product he intends to ship would fit perfect in the tubes rods are shipped in. It's unrelated to fishing but he's a fish head that thought it would work for him. I guess he's looking for a low cost supplier of the tubes themselves since he expects a large volume. Didn't know if some of you had been down that path already. Thanks.

I've done a couple pieces now with TU members (bladesandbaits, skeeter, maddoxbay and others). You're well within your rights to request writing samples and request what publication and anticipated print date he has for your baits, etc. I get called all the time from manufacturers and bait makers wanting to verify a writer is doing a story for our magazine. He should be glad to help out and be sure you send him your mailing address and request copies of the article when it goes to print. I'm sure he's a freelance writer doing a story that he's either been assigned or that he wants to "shop" to a few publications. A google search on him, yielded nothing so he's not done anything recently with any big name pubs. gat0r aka editor FLW Outdoors magazine

Ha! So you're the one... I went there too. All they have is 5/0. Haha. He told me someone just bought a 1,000.

Welcome to the national shortage man. I found 100 at Bass Pro passing through Nashville and bought them up. You might get lucky and find them in a retailer that doesn't sell a lot of those. "The not making them because a new machine is being put in" is not the real reason either. They've been running out for more than 4 months. And it's not just this hook. Several of their hooks are out of stock.

IT's the Evolution Jig. It's at http://www.evolutionlures.com/ and it won best of show last year for hardbaits at ICAST. However I think they are like $10 for a 2 pack.

Like I said it was probably me. . . I ripped open the package thru the package out.. .then several days later did the gluing. Go figure all I needed to know was on the package I thru out! Might give it another whirl. And use Devcon when I'm in a hurry.

Like I said it was probably me. . . I ripped open the package thru the package out.. .then several days later did the gluing. Go figure all I needed to know was on the package I thru out! Might give it another whirl. And use Devcon when I'm in a hurry.

I tried Goop mostly based on prompting from this website. I hated it. Half of the 50 jigs I did I was able to pull the weedguard out the next day (about 12 hours of curing time). I've been using Devcon epoxy but the two part mixing is a chore sometimes and a blob will dry up pretty quick on you. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong with the GOOP (garage too cold, not using enough - although using too much gets glue on the jighead, etc), but I was not impressed on my first use. I'd like to know how some of the devcon guys apply your glue and the same with GOOP. Also this might be a real stupid question. Once you get the tip full of Goop on the first use, how do you use the tip (applicator) the next time? Mine was full of Goop that hardened that I couldn't rinse out the night before. My Devcon process is like this: I squeeze two parts into a cup, mix it with a toothpick. Dip the end of the weedguard in the epoxy mix and jam it in the jig. Cures fast, is stuck there for life, but it takes a few mixes to do 50 jigs because it hardens up so fast. Looking for a "better way" from some of you guys that have this down to a science.

I can tell you that Dion Hibdon uses a football shaky head jig but it's not a stand up variety. I too agree that a shaky head and a stand up head are two different things. However, then you throw the Buckeye Lures Spot Remover into the mix and I can tell you a lot of co-anglers have won a lot of money on that little head on the FLW Tour shaking a little worm. It really depends on how you fish a shaky head. Some people like to hop it down ledges where I can see a stand up head really excelling. Others like to just shake it one place, move it a little and shake it some more. And some of the other more traditional shakey heads seem more suited to that task. FLW Outdoors magazine will be covering this topic in several articles this year and show off some of the various heads "custom" and otherwise that the pros are using.

I prefer the screw lock because you get the worm secured to the head without bulging the worm or causing it to tear at the head when you catch one fish.

Can someone post their step by step process for tying a skirt to a jig with wire. I've seen lots of posts about using fly tying twine but I'm looking for an explanation on tying with copper wire or craft wire. I've tinkered with it for doing some living rubber skirts for my own personal use but so far I've been pretty flustered trying to get the copper wire to tie off correctly. I basically lay the skirt pads on the jig wrap twice with the copper wire then twist and cut, but then I have a 1/4 inch tag end that is a pain to bend down or out of the way and make the collar look professional. Any tips would be appreciated.

Hi guys... I'm the guy who worked with John on the article (Jason). I've got to clear a few avenues to allow the article to be posted on another website. Let me do that next week when I'm in the office and get back to you. Redg8r I sent you a PM. I'm glad you guys liked the article. I hope this is just scratching the surface on custom work and maybe shedding a little more light on the fact that there is a lot more talent than anglers realize out there custom building and painting baits. As to the problems getting the magazine on newstands I'll have to explain. Up until 2007 the magazine has been offered as a "member's benefit" with a few copies going to Wal-Mart stores that sell a lot of fishing magazines. This year we aim to change all that... You'll start finding this magazine in a lot more outlets, Wal-Mart stores, grocery stores, etc. We plan to build this into the biggest and best publication in the business and I welcome your feedback on the magazine (good and bad) because I want you to know that I want to make a magazine that you want to read. Thanks again fellas. I love this site and the talented people here. It was my pleasure to work with John and others for the information. I hope I did you guys justice. Thanks, Jason "gat0r" Sealock

thanks

The hook we're talking about is a Gamakatsu. It's a black nickle, 60 degree FLAT eye hook. Similar to the Mustad you mentioned but it's got a flat eye as opposed to the straight eye. I ordered some of those Mustad football jigs from Castind to check out anyway.

Ain't that the truth Mr. B. Guys really like that flat-eye football jig. And I've speculated that it's just because it's different. I bet I could throw the old 60 degree widegap straight eye and they'd never notice. LOL! But I'm just getting into pouring my own heads (mainly to bring my costs down). But I also want to change the head a little too. So we'll see. Good information again guys. Thanks.

Man great information guys. Thanks for all your help. Got a few days without the wife and kid to play around with some painting. I see a fluid bed in my very near future! Thanks again fellas!

yeah was thinking about a fluid bed to ease the pain of inconsistencies in my jig painting process. I want a nice easy workflow if you know what I mean. So I can process a lot without much thought. I was careful to keep these jigs away from the heat source, I might try the foil method as well. And possibly look into fluid beds more seriously. Where did you pick up your fluid bed. Is any one brand better than another that you know of?

Well I found this on CSI's website Will longer mean stronger paint jobs? Any variances with color (ie black -vs- white)? Anyone perfected the curing times for colors?

Because I'm "cooking/curing" jigs with weedguards I need to use low heat. I'm cooking around 200-225 with Teflon guards and had good results last night. But I've not verified if it really "baked" the paint on. Does anyone have a low heat cooking times sheet for Pro Tech Powder Paints on leadheads? Just curious if such an animal existed. I apologize if this has been asked before. Still playing and learning as I go. Thanks for your help. Merry Christmas! gat0r