Snax

I brush it on but you can probably dip it if you wish. I prefer brushing as it's not cheap and I want to use it wisely. You'll notice that it soaks in and covers really well. It's not meant to flow out and give you a smooth finish. That is what a regular epoxy is for. This is purely to penetrate and protect the wood.

I usually will let the treated wood sit for a minimum of 3 days just to be on the safe side. So far so good.

I figure this will be ideal for the guys needing to seal the hinge pin holes in their swimbaits. It also acts as a great primer/adhesion promotor for whatever top coats you use. If you let the wood dry fully after treating it then just apply a very thin coat of the CPES again and let it tack up before painting your colors. It supposedly will glue your top coats to the wood! Even without re-coating it gives very good adhesion.

Here's a link to the CPES tests... Rot Doctor-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot

It absolutely must be used in a well ventilated area as the solvents that carry the epoxy resins are highly toxic and reek strongly! It supposedly carries deeper into wood than any other product like it and it doesn't cure like a rock but retains a wood-like flexibility which is what you want in a lure. I've only had the chance to apply it to a few lures so far but I'm really impressed with it.

Very nice John!!!

Check out the thread I just added on wood sealer. This stuff is the perfect product for us lure makers!

Hey everyone, Check out this product if you want to seal your wood baits before priming and painting. It's called CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) and is specially formulated to penetrate deeply into the wood. Here's the link to their website... CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot. I've used it and love it!!! (And NO I don't sell it and they are not a sponsor of mine)

What I've done is to first build the swimbait with the closed screw eyes in one section and holes pre drilled into the opposite section. Once the lure is clear coated and ready to assemble I squeeze the open eye screws close onto the ones in the first section then I melt in some industrial hot glue into the pre drilled holes in the other body section. Immediately I insert the now squeezed shut eye screws into those holes with the fresh hot glue and push the screws into the holes while being careful not to get the glue onto the area where they are inked together. It's really tricky to do just right and is a complete pain in the ass...but it works if you have the bodies notched in a V as I do. It's really strong too as I have done extensive testing and snapped a downrigger cable I used to hold the lure to a tree while I reefed violently on the lure with my fishing rod and reel. The lure remained fine! My line was a 100lb test super braid too and I wasn't able to even budge the glued in screw eyes. Hope this helps!

You're more than welcome luretrekker. Seriously wicked baits and your website is really well done too!

Fortunately there will always be the customers who do appreciate all our hard work and will pay what you ask for your products. I've never been shy about my prices and the folks that can't afford it simply aren't the market I make my products for. Always sell for what you feel your lures are worth guys. It's a big world out there and lots of great customers who will pay you what you're really worth. So many of you sell your lures for too little in my opinion and that only hurts you in the long run.

You KNOW I'm loving this beauty John! Awesome!!!

Luretrekker, Just wanted to let you know how impressed I am with your lures, especially your swimbaits. I just checked out your website and I think you do really, really nice work! Keep it up!!!

I do think it's a perfect method of mixing smaller amounts of epoxy Mark and I'll likely use the method myself when doing small touchups. I also will think of a wonderful person when using the syringes... my younger brother Steven passed away a few years ago from Diabetes and he was also insulin dependent. His passing is the reason I decided to pursue my dream of creating a name for myself in the fishing lure industry. We only live once and this is the life I want to lead, all struggles included.

That's a great idea! What I use are dollar store plastic shot glasses. Cheap,disposable and easy to use. If I only need to mix a smaller amount than one entire shot glass I make a line on the side with marker and fill each component to the line before pouring them into a separate mixing cup. I also use dollar store plastic cups for the actual mixing. I then pour my mixed epoxy onto a tray lined with wax paper so it can spread out and de-gass faster. I use dollar store disposable brushes to apply the epoxy. Gotta love those dollar stores! lol

My pleasure, that's why we're here my friend.

Epoxies that we use do not "dry" but cure as a result of a chemical reaction between the resin and the hardener. you can pour the epoxy two inches thick and it will cure fully as long as you mixed it thoroughly and had the correct mix ratio. Thinning it to spray will in no way make it cure harder, or be any better if you have to do many coats as opposed to one thick one. I know this information from speaking directly with the manufacturers of the Nu-Lustre 55 products. In fact if you allow the thin coats to cure fully before respraying, you will not have as secure a bond as with one thick coat because the layers will not chemically bond, only mechanically.

Creek Monster, I'm curious to know how the coats hold up to fish teeth and hook rash compared to unreduced epoxy. Also does thinning it for spraying effect the open time (Time before it begins to be unworkable).

My concern is that the epoxy will no longer retain its qualities and the finish may not hold up over time. Epoxies aren't meant to be sprayed as they are fairly thick. Reducing it with the appropriate solvent (acetone most likely) will change its ability to protect and it may not even be any more durable then the paint it's covering. If you want durability a brushed on epoxy like Nu-Lustre 55 with uv protection is the way to go.

If you are going to spray on your clear coat you would be better off using automotive urethanes. To spray epoxy you will need to thin it to the point that they will not be any where near as tough as it should be. As for the ventilation, if you are spraying anything that requires solvents to thin it you should be wearing a dual cartridge respirator also. Just looking out for you!

I suggest brushing it on. Unless you know what you are doing you will not only destroy the airbrush but you'll do serious bodily harm! Solvents are not things to mess around with.

I use mylar also and love it. I've also used tape ,paper, cardboard, my own fingers etc when I need a quick freehand mask.

The Nu-Lustre fully cures in 24 hours.