rjbass

I bought a gallon of the Super Seal 30 which is supposed to be the best of the concrete sealers. Tried it on my cedar Musky baits that I have been making for years. Does not even come close to etex or ex74 as far as deep sheen finish or hardness. Will peel when marred by big fish, and never hardens so you can't put a fingernail mark in it. Might be ok for personal bass or walleye baits, but will NEVER stand up to the abuse of big, toothy fish. I am always looking for a better mouse trap, but I don't beleve this is the answer......MHO Rod

Just to set the record straight.....there are far more muskies caught today than 25-30 years ago. I don't know where you get your information, but it is not true. Just sayin... Rod

I use Red Cedar for Musky baits exclusively. I seal it with sanding sealer and then prime before paint and then top coat and have never had an issue. It will not soak up water like basswood. Basswood is like a sponge and if any water gets in it will expand and split your top coat. I have had big musky teeth puncture my top coat and nothing happens, the bait keeps on kicking.... Rod

I don't know if any of you guys remember but a few years ago there was a video out and I believe it was even on here of five crankbaits all the same but weighted differently and they were in a test tank with a laminar flow. You could see the different actions and depths they would run because of the different weighting. I had the video for a long time, but can't seem to find it. I know some of the old timers on here would remember. Anyway, that tank was the real deal..... Rod

I'm sure you have all seen the fly testing tanks that are around. Here is a link if you haven't seen one. http://www.tubeflytech.com/Tube_Fly_Tech/TFT_Swim_Tank.html I don't see why you couldn't use this concept for crankbaits and even swimbaits, just come up with a bigger tube, etc. There is a huge variety of pumps that would work, both impeller and prop type.... Rod

Here is the link....I built one exactly like this and have used it for years and spray everything in it no problems....http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3903621338367109945&hl=en#

Plenty of info on the seach section......try experimenting, trial and error, that's how you learn.

Couldn't have said it better myself Jed and also I know that people like Jed and myself who can't wait the 12 to 14 days for a cure because of customer demand, can't try something like this until proven better. If it won't hold up to these simple tests, how will it possibly hold up to Musky teeth???? Nothing against Dick, just stating facts. Rod

Jed, You hit the nail on the head with that post....I am sure that is why so many of the old regulars don't visit this site as much anymore, myself included. Rod

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1030590/0_airbrush/ Here you go.....This is what Tater uses.....

FYI....I can't believe that I am replying here since this subject has been covered over the years at least 10,000,000 times on this site (slight exageration)....and I know everyone wants to find the ultimate, one part, flexible but hard, dip type, top coat. but here goes.....I am a musky fisherman and have been for a long time. I have been making wooden musky baits for years as well as bass and walleye baits. I have posted many baits on this site so some of you know my work and some of you have used my baits. Over the years I have tried Flex coat old and new, Diamond II, Spar Varnishes, Pelucid, System 33 top coats, many automotive top coats, Dick Nite Lure Finish, as well as just about every other top coat out there in search of the perfect formula....For big fish with teeth (Musky, Pike or Blue fish) there are only a couple of real choices IMHO...Devcon, Etex, EX 74 and my favorite Nu-Lustre 55 with the UV formula which hits 8 of your 9 points, all except number 6, which does not exist at this point (that I know of) .......I have wasted many dollars and much time on just this issue, so, not trying to be a know it all or a smart ass, just trying to save some of you newer guys the agony...Now, keep in mind if you are strictly building baits for bass, or other species without the big teeth, or molding your baits from plastic or using PVC, your top coat choices are far greater because you don't have to worry about the puncture issue..... Now also even more importantly, if you are building out of wood, is what you do underneath. Even with a superior clear coat, your blank must be sealed and made as waterproof as possible before priming, painting and top coat. If the blank is not sealed properly and the topcoat gets punctured, the wood will soak up the water, swell and the paint and top coat will crack and peel off the bait. These big fish will eventually penetrate the clear coat and I have many baits with punctures, teeth marks, and hook rash right through to the wood but they still work great and do not abosrb water. On my website I have an entire explanation about wooden baits, the good and the bad and the expected if you care to read, www.muskymaniacs.com. Rod

Rustyman, I guess I could have clarified what sanding sealer. I use Minwax Sanding Sealer. It is the best stuff out there IMHO. Try it....Let your blanks soak in it for an hour or so, hang to dry and then prime, paint and topcoat. Now, as far as basswood...the nature of that wood is to swell if any water gets to it....I would stay far away from that for Musky or Pike baits. I have tried it and have had problems in the past. I use cedar because of its bouyant properties and it does not absorb water like some other woods. The sanding sealer works great on either Western or Eastern cedar (I use both) Works great for cranks and top water baits as well. I have many baits with exposed wood from teeth and they keep right on producing.... Rod

FYI I have been making Musky baits for years....I use mainly cedar and soak the blanks in sanding sealer and let dry before priming, painting and top coat. Toothy fish will puncture the bait, that is the nature of the beast, but if you properly treat the wood before hand, it will not crack or peel the paint and the wood will not swell. I use EX 74 for my top coat and it is flexible yet super tough....better than etex and has uv inhibitors. I have baits that are 10 years old, have caught many muskies and are still kicking.... Rod

Here is what I use....cheap and disposable.... save the handles and you can use them to mix your epoxy. http://www.countrykitchensa.com/catalog/product.aspx?T=1&productId=619473 Rod

it's called awesome....

Ask Oprah......

Good one Blades......

Muskiefool is right....I have posted this before, but for what it's worth, we "T" all our hooks, and use at least three coats of either devcon, etex or new lutstre 55 and trolling 5 to 7 MPH with big baits with big sharp hooks....guess what??? You are going to get hook rash that is a fact..... Rod

For what it's worth, if you troll big baits at 4 to 7 mph as alot of us musky fisherman do, you will get hook rash and it doesn't matter what kind of finish you use....that is a fact....we "T" all our hooks to lessen the effect and for better hook sets, but hook rash still happens, just the nature of the beast. Rod

How do you guys dip it if you can't let it drip back into the container??? Rod