rjbass

Pete, If you can afford it. buy am Iwata airbrush. They are great brushes, easy to clean and adjust and you can get one that will spray anything you want. I have an Iwata Eclipse side gravity feed that I do all my major spraying with. It has a .035 needle and I spray water based acrylics all day long and it very rarely clogs. I also have an Iwata Custom Micron SB that I use for all my detail work which is IMO the best brush out there. They are expensive, but in this category, you get what you pay for. I have owned Badgers, Paasches and Thayer and Chandler brushes, but once I used an Iwata it was the difference between day and night. Try this website and give them a look, these are the best prices I have found also. http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Airbrush_Main.html Good luck Rod

Hello and welcome... Yes I use some of the Wildlife colors Taxidermy paint from Wasco http://www.taxidermy.com/ and it rocks. Shoots real smooth and does not need thinning. It is water based and cleans up easy. Real consistent paint. Rod

I have a Custom Micron SB. It is without a doubt the best airbrush for detail that I have seen and I have used many. It is a gravity feed with a side cup so you can see over the top of the brush easily. Simple to clean and adjust. Here is a site where you can see all the different ones at an expensive but good price for these brushes. http://www.jerrysartarama.com/art-supply-stores/online/4697 Rod

The way I do this is to use water slide decal paper. Print out your logo or company name or whatever on the decal paper after you have sized it in a photo shop type of program. Cut it out, soak in water and apply before clearcoat. The edges melt right into the clear coat and you have a seamless, perfect, professional looking logo. Below is the website where I get mine and they have instruction on how to do it. Simple, fast and looks good. Rod http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm

Best thing I can tell you right now is use the search feature on this website and type in any subject you have a question on and there will be hours of reading that will definitely get you going in the right direction. Rod

You are right Skeeter Jones...there are lots of ways to chrome plate plastic as well as other material but it is all expensive at least in the initial equipment purchase. The big manufacturers can do this because they sell in such large volume that is why they can sell lures for $2.99. If it was cheap and easy, everybody on this site would be using some type of chrome paint or plating. That is why most everyone uses foil for this effect.......FYI Rod

For those of you that do foiled baits, try this. Get some wire form mesh from any craft store, I got mine from Mister Art on line. http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/174/AMACO-WireForm-Metal-Mesh.htm It comes in different diamond patterns from 1/16" to 1/4". After you have foiled your bait, cut a piece of the mesh to the size you need and wrap it around the area you plan on detailing. Take a burnishing tool and rub the mesh pushing the pattern into the foil take your time and keep the mesh tight and you will produce a raised scale effect with a nice diamond pattern.

The only real chrome paint that works is from Alsa Corp. called "mirror Chrome". You can now get it in rattle cans and they are called "killer chrome",but you have to use thier undercoat to make it work and together the kit is $149 I believe. If you don't mind spending the money it works and it does not dull under epoxy. They have a video that shows how it works. Here is the link: http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/kc/killerchrome_prodinfo.htm Rod

Ken is right on about that foil. It is called BriteBak and it works really well. The gold really pops....Here is a crank I made using the gold. The picture really doesn't do it justice. Rod

Embroidery hoops are fine for flat sided baits but they don't work very well on rounded baits. I use clothes pins like BobP on all baits and never have had a problem. Just make sure your paint is dry before you put the netting over the bait. Rod

Bob is right, once it has cured it becomes part of the lexan. You have to make sure you get it all off before it is cured.

This is my favorite recent picture.... http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g225/rjbass/Fish-musky53incheslong26.jpg

Dan, I have an Iwata custom Micron sb. It is a great, great airbrush. I like the side gravity feed as it lets you see over the top of your work better, but that is just personal preferance. I don't know much about the hi-line series other than what I have read and they look good. I don't think you can go wrong with an Iwata brush for ease of cleaning, precise control and quality of product. Can't wait to see some of your work. Rod

Here is one more option for you... http://www.ahh.biz/products/nylon%20mesh%20fabric%20FHM006.htm Rod

For what its worth.....I tried the stuff and it looks good going on, but it does not hold up. Actually, I have tried every type of clear coat known to man to try and find the ultimate, easiest way to clear coat a bait, but I have found none better than Devcon. It cures harder and glossier and does not let the water in. End of story. Rod