Richard Prager

Why don't you just give Kim a call at Lurecraft? She'll tell you

You might have some luck with this guy...He worked/learned from Ron E Bee for 10 years http://www.bradwiegmann.com/lures/hand-crafted/229-flat-sided-balsa-wood-custom-crankbaits.html

It's what the 1.5DD is to the 1.5

I misted the Createx Sunrise Yellow as well over the silver foil on the top. With the bottom bait, I misted Polytranspar Medium Green Bass over Createx Pearl Pineapple over the same silver foil....the top was misted over white stripes and the bottom has the black stripes over the misting. You can see how different colors under, over and the overspray as well can give different looks. Even the amount misted. I don't think you can make any two exactly alike if you tried. I have never yellow like BobP used but if he says it works....it works! There seems to be an endless way to achieve the same or similar results and variations of by layering colors...

They were the only vendor that ever carried them.

Dudley hasn't restocked in a couple of years really...He's making swim baits

MTG76OEMBN KVD MTL POINT, 2X-SHORT SHANK, 1X-STRONG TREBLE BLACK NICKEL I've been using size 2 on 1.5 and larger....size 4 on smaller blanks from Dinger and other vendors for a few years without any complaints... https://www.captainhookswarehouse.com/index.cfm?page=products&manid=2&catid=12&sizeid=0&view=1&offset=11

Are these for retail store display or shipping? Ever think about putting a business card and the crank in a worm bag? Thick enough so the hooks don't poke through and the card they could stick in their wallet. Or a magnetic card? When I buy a crank, I open it up and toss the clamshell along with your info because it just doesn't fit anywhere....Clam shells are best for display.. Just a thought

None necessary...I didn't look at it that way at all....but I thank you for your concern. The only tourneys I fish is my monthly club tourneys...we average 1/2 dozen boats or so. That's about the max amount of people that are willing to tolerate me!

Just because it has no or little odor doesn't mean it's ok to to breathe it in. Nobody is more stubborn than me. I poured plastics for years without proper ventilation and designed ,made and polished jewelry breathing in gold and silver dust with the same mindset. Even with the fresh air system, I tend not to walk over and flip the switch just for one or two quick colors. I also have a paint booth with exhaust, but when you're coating a dozen lures in Createx White, the particles are just floating around and being breathed in. Well, I'm not painting this week because I'm sitting here with the oxygen on 24/7 since last Tuesday evening and needless to say I did not fish the Saturday night club tourney. I do use it as much as possible and always when clear coating because my kids need a father. For the first time in my life, if someone asked me if I could do it all over, would I do anything different....I would say yes! Smoking for 40 years gave me the Emphysema..so much for being bullet proof. I have nobody to blame but myself and do what I can to protect what lung capacity (30+total%) but still fall short. Not looking for feedback or any sympathy but passing along the knowledge I've acquired from first hand experience as well as recommendation from those that came before me...

I've been using the BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy for about 6 years. I love it! I first tried the 20 minute Finish Cure and like Ayetti states you do get more working time maybe 6 baits than the 30 minute slow cure, but I find it requires 2 coats. It's very forgiving as far as mixing as Musky Glenn said. I squeeze a 5 count of each in a plastic medicinal cup. Hit it for 10-15 seconds with a drill using a wire from a spinnerbait with the end bent at 90 degrees. I dip the epoxy brush in DA poured into a glass shot glass type of thing. Mix it AFTER mixing the 2 parts and all bubbles disperse immediately. I do 2-3 baits per batch but never dip the brush in the DA after the first bait. I found that dipping it in the DA with epoxy on the brush contaminates it and I would end up with little bits of epoxy that look like bubbles in the finished bait. The DA does not compromise the integrity of the finish at all. The only reason I use it is to disperse the bubbles. I also find that humidity is key. When I cleared out side in the garage I had about 75% success rate. Inside 99.9%. I warm the bottles with the heat gun to about room temp, I guess just to get it to flow better out of the bottle. The RC guys have been using this for like 10K years....One plus over D2T is that if you are doing any lipless with sharp corners, I also remove the tape from the bills before clearing. I will do them as baits 2 and 3 once the BSI starts to thicken. It will enable you to do sharp edges without it pulling away. Also, whatever I'm clearing, I will hit with some color shift paint or top coat prior to clear coating...anything really to cover any oils that would normally cause the epoxy not to cover from contamination. I'm sure there are other clears like dipping KBS or whatever, but because of lung issues I find this allows me to keep breathing....I also use the Breathe Cool Fresh Air System which pumps air from another room into my mask Hope this helps....because of health issues I have found this to work best for me. It doesn't peel, crack or flake and takes a beating!

You'll never have to buy another brush...watch the tip size. Like BobP says .035 I have seen some with .03 which might be more work in having to thin a bunch of colors.....parts are readily accessible which is just another plus!

I had the same problem with 5 guns. Called Iwata and he told me to put just a little oil on it. That didn't work. This is the guy that does the repairs along with another woman. I ended up sending them to him. My brushes ranged in age from 6 months to 6 years. They normally charge $25 plus any parts.....He sent back all 5 and didn't charge a penny. I've only used one of the 5 he cleaned and after an hour it did the same thing. I haven't tried the others as long as the one I'm using works fine.......He also said not to use Createx Restorer at all and not the soak the gun. He has a demo on You Tube and uses Q-tips and acetone. I was always told never to use anything that can cause fibers to get in there. I do use the dental picks and they work well. He seems to be a little......I can't think of a word to describe him...very nice guy. I'm almost afraid to try the other 4 airbrushes he repaired. Kirk is the head honcho over at Iwata. You be the judge.

I remember reading a while back that dipping does not make for an evenly spread coat. I use a .050 tip when base coating my baits.