Richard Prager

That "for personal use" or "only needs a 10% change" are both myths. The trademark appplies no matter how the mold/baits are used. There are almost as many threads on it as there are for salt!

That should do the trick. You also might want to roll the needle on a flat surface to make sure it isn't bent.

If you get caught, tell her it was a backordered item from a previous order. Gotta be creative but you can't use that one very often. You can always get a PO Box.....it's cheaper that a Divorce Lawyer

I use moslty white and some black. Some colors show up better over white and some black. For scales, different types of netting. Whether it be fabric, from the produce dept. or those bath thingys. The best two suggestions I can give you is to #1 start playing around with your new toy. #2 put your reading glasses on and read every thread in the hard baits section and b. start using the search feature. There is a wealth of information there and the answers to all of your questions at your disposal. I have read every thread in every section here a couple of times. If I have a question, I usually just go to the search feature and try a couple of key words. I don't have the patience to ask a question and just sit back and wait for an answer. Don't get me wrong, I'm not telling not to ask questions. This is just what works for me. Welcome, have fun and start painting!

link #1 is done with practice link# 2 is a stencil www.lurelayouts.com I also know the you tube video you are referring to but I think it was removed. Have fun with it and just play around and try different things. Read old threads and use the search engine here

Maybe a piece of plastic tubing over the shaft of the hook?

There's a bunch of stuff on this in the archives. Use the search feature. Type in DINP

My bad.......my eyes saw Rage but my mind thought Paca.

I used Mortens Pickling Salt right out of the box for years. I prefer not to grind it because I like a more transparent/translucent bait. The baits will to tear easier with the larger crystals compared to flouring but I figure it's a trade off. When hand pouring sticks, it is necessary to stir every 2 sticks to make for uniform baits and keep the salt suspended. I find it is not necessary to flour the salt if you stir between sticks. People have been hand pouring sticks this way for years. If you do this and your salt sinks, then your plastic is too hot. If you don't like the way floured salt makes your stick look, then make or buy one of Bear's presto pots w/stirring systems. You can use the salt right out of the box and every single stick will come out the same with little or no waste. You can also make a batch as little as one cup of plastic in with this sytem. This is just worked for me when hand pouring sticks.

www.basstackle.com

e-bay

I would show up with a couple of jigs or whatever you plan on making and offer a couple. Give them a reason to give the lead to you.........offer to sweep up or something. Nobody gets something for nothing! IMO

I bought one of the 50 pack of trap seconds. Great deal and all you have to is take a little fine steel wool to them and the existing paint comes right off.

It shoudn't make a difference. That is what the turner/dryer does..........enables the clear coat to to flow, level out and keep from dripping.

basstackle has what you're looking for. The mold requires a hand injector.

I had used D2T. The problem ocurred on the belly where there wasn't any paint. The painted surfaces were unaffected. Although the surface felt smooth, it gave an appearance of wrinkling. This was about a year ago and I don't remember how I prepped the surface if I did at all. It's no good to get old

They are the same and come from the same place as Fishingcomfort's which is also http://www.reelpowerhandles.com/ I don't know about anybody else but I had some issues with my clear coat reacting with the plated blanks.

Shooting auto clear with the garage door open with a fan behind is suicide on the installment plan. I hope you are not recommending that others do this.

There are several people that buy from Worth, break up into smaller quantities and sell on e-bay. Blades, bearings, etc are all available there. I found this to be the best source for 100 cts.

I used the flexible shaft Foredom for several years making jewelry. What I like about it, is the variable speed pedal. Also, there are many, many different types of bits that are available to use/modify for your dremel. Just do a search for jewelry supplies.

I received mine a few days ago. A few cool looking hand crafted shark looking crank. I've never seen anything like this before! Very unique. I hope to pool test it tomorrow to see what type of crank it actually is and then it goes on display. I don't know the name that goes with the username, but thank you, JS! I will post a pic shortly. Richard

I have the same one and use it for the exact same thing. I think it was 7.99. It is good for that but in my opinion not much more. The rpm's are very fast. I also have something similar to this flex shaft that I used when I had my jewelry business. I found this style much easier to control than the "Dremel" tool. http://www.jewelerstoystore.com/Economy_Flex_Shaft_p/f530.htm

I got mine at the pharmacy at a CVS........expensive there though at $11 for a pint. I guess they saw me coming! Why don't you just use a 50/50 wash of Elmer's glue and water. Flood the cavities and let sit for 30-45 seconds, pour out excess and repeat 3 times. Make sure the pop is "bone" dry before you do this.

+1

I have yet to find the tile floor version. I have been using the one for wood floors. I guess it has the same common ingrediants that make it work but sure would like to try the one recommended