Richard Prager

It seems that the You-Tube video is no longer there. The original formula is 50% Createx paint 30% Pledge w/Future Shine and 20% water. I find that in most cases Createx/Auto Air does not need that much thinning if any at all unless you really need to turn down the air and get very close. What has been working for me is about 60-40 Pledge to water and then thinning to my liking. Others might have different ways but this is what works for me. Clean and backwash real good in between colors as the Pledge will account for quicker clogging.

I haven't experienced that issue, Bob

I've tried it and compared it to the concoction RayburnGuy mentioned. The reducer using the Pledge with Future does work considerably better. I believe the reason being there are less variables with humidity and amount of Glycerin to use. I have 60% Future and 40% distilled water in a spray bottle and thin as/if necessary. I have actually found that the more experience I gain from painting, the less I'm needing to thin.

I don't have experience with auto clear but I do with those blanks. With D2T, BSI 20 Minute Finish Cure, or BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy and #5 2x strong Eagle Claw hooks the 95 or 110 blanks will rise very slowly. #6 triple grips slightly faster but I think those hooks are a bit small. Try one with the D2T. I think you will be pleasantly surpised!

Congratulations and God bless!

My old Pioneer still works!

......and you still listen to CCR and The Band on 8-track Montana....thanks for sharing all that info. Very clever and nice to see stuff like this back up on TU......It has been a while and don't blame people for not posting. Good luck with it all. It gets those creative (what's left of them) juices flowing again!

How tall and comfortable was your previous area? Spend a couple of bucks on the best lighting and a comfortable, adjustable chair. Both are quite important and less expensive than a divorce attorney!IMHO

Very cool the way you put that video together. Thanks for taking the time out to do it.

I think you meant to put this in the soft plastics forum since you used the term "colorants" Crayon, pastels and color blocks for candlemaking work well. They might not be as consistant as colorants as far as reproducing colors but they should work just fine. The candle blocks are available on e-bay for a about $1 each.

You are most probably introducing the bubbles yourself. Things that might help: salt first to remove moisture stir don't whip use a metal butter knife as oppsed to wood. before pouring let bubbles rise to top, skim off or wave a flame over to pop them. Have patience you'll figure it out.

You might try using the bottom of a round, metal cylnder shaped container

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21416-skirt-maker-and-skirt-questions/page__p__159483__hl__skirtmaster__fromsearch__1#entry159483 There are a few threads on this. Here is one that I pulled off using the search engine. I like the skirtmaster.

I have only been painting a year, so I’m by no means an expert but being recently somewhat disabled, I seem to have the time to paint a few hours each day. This is what I’ve found out about Bob Smith Industries 20 Finish Cure and their 30 Minute Slow Cure. The 20 minute Finish Cure is much thinner than the 30 Minute Slow Cure and much easier to brush on. They are two completely different products by BSI. The 30M SC is similar to D2T and will allow you to do 3 baits. One coat comes out great. The 20M FC allows you to do about 6 baits. One coat is sufficient for complete coverage, however 2 coats gives a deeper finish and has a much better appearance. The 30M SC has a little bit harder finish. If you want a thinner coat I would use the 20M FC. I have done well over 500 baits with the 20M FC and recently tried the 30M Slow Cure Epoxy. Even though I think both products are great...........I find that 1 coat of 30M SC looks better than 2 coats of 20M FC. Both are ready for hooks in 8 hours (but a little longer is better) and both have great flow properties Just my findings......oh, and NO bubbles with either one! At this time, I have probably equaled close to 500 baits with the 30 minute slow cure. I have settled on doing 2 baits per batch (no thinning) at my leisure. When I try to do three baits ………well I think I’m about to have an Anxiety Attack! LOL. I find the warmer the weather the easier it is to apply. I give both parts a little shot of the hea tgun(when it is below 70 degrees) before mixing and that helps. BSI claims that their 20 FC is water resistant and the 30 SC is waterproof. I’ve had baits cleared in both with one coat submerged for 24 hours with no ill effects. There isn’t any odor with either which is what I need because the lungs I have now are shot. Maybe when I get my new ones, I’ll use auto clear………..not! These are just my findings and what seems to me working for me right now. Hope I didn’t hijack this thread too much. Richard

For the sticks I used Bears Presto w/stirrer. For unsalted jerkbaits I injected. I would imagine it would inject ok especially since you are using about 30% less salt.

It also makes for a more durable bait. Less salt means a more translucent stick with richer colors. Great stuff!

Two things I have learned: 1. you never have enough molds 2. you always have left over plastic

From what you describe, you are scorching your plastic. Try making smaller batches to where you can pour it all out at once or one re-heat.

You can get some really cool effects with that large black flake. Found that out by accident. Purple and red are notorious for bleeding. Wasted many many baits as I found out that those colors don't take kindly to reheats.

I thought "squeeze handle" was fairly simple

I have seen that one but it didn't really impress me. I bought the Skirtmaster and I'm very happy with it. http://www.skirtmaster.com/SkirtMasterKit.htm

You can get a used (rotissery) one on e-bay for about 10-12 w/shipping. I bought one and have used it almost daily for a year. You can also order one online from Ace Hardware for I believe $18 and have it shipped for free to your local store. Some guys use the motors from microwaves.

Yep, that's it! I don't do the LT thing because of fumes and I use water base paints but clean it the same way with acetone or plain water on the spot. I also run the needle through some fine steel wool to polish and put on a drop of silicone.

Great color! Nice job on that. You can get allot of variations if that by adding some small flake. One of my all time favorite colors!

SWEET!