Richard Prager

I have CS4....edit - transform - warp

That might be so, but a dollar to a doughnut says he helps him get his gallon of plastic.

http://www.bassmagnetlures.com/

I wonder if at these prices the baits are poured, bagged and maybe even drop shipped. I wonder if this will drive the price of scraps up?

I would think at least .60-.70 each for that size sticks. Your sticks are probably better than any store bought stuff so don't sell yourself short. As far as how many in a bag depends on what molds and how many molds you have. Let's say, if you have 1 or 2 4-cavity molds, you'd probably want to bag them in 8 packs, 16 and/or 24 packs. 5-cavity molds 10, 20 packs. You want to make you life as easy as possible and keepiing it fun. Just my thoughts on this

I could not find the Pledge that is shown in the video. I bought the one for wood floors with future and have been using it for about 3 months. It works great. I have made comparisions between the Auto Air reducer and the other homemade reducer with windex/distilled water and glycerin. Of the three I have been using, I find the Pledge with Future to work the best.......hands down!. For createx white I have been using 50/30/20 like in the video. I don't use anywhere near that much for the other colors and some colors I don't thin at all.

I don't know about the Root Beer but they changed the GP a couple of years ago. I liked the old one better. The new one isn't bad, it's just different. More green. I think there are some recipes here for the old if you do a search.

http://youtu.be/zZrmNjQYcdg

Glow Jigs?

The best way to melt old worms is in someone else's house! Sorry, i just had to do that. All kidding aside, it is going to smell and smoke quite a bit, especially if you don't have any virgin plastisol to mix in. Make sure the worms are dry. You don't need to add anything to it. Melt it slow and make sure you have good ventilation.

You don't need to spend $200 to pour a $5 bag of bait (you can if you want to the stirring system is great!). From what you describe, it sounds like not you're stirring enough and not getting your plastic hot enough. When you are hand pouring sticks you need to stir, stir and then stir some more. In order to get consistent baits you need to stir every 2 sticks. Flouring the salt will help it suspend better, but the baits will be more opaque. I've always used Morten's Pickling salt in the green box...right out of the box. Any salt should work ok, though. It is humid where you live so i would do what Dave suggests just to eliminate moisture being the culprit.

That Aluminum (fine) is pretty good stiuff. I shoot it with a .3 without reducing but usually have to pull the needle and wipe it down after using. Just ordered some paints yesterday and I was just notified it was shipped. http://artsupply.com/ Free shipping on all paints w/$25 order plus 12% off entire order. Figured I'd let you all know.

Yeah, just give them a call. They are in Texas also. Maybe driving distance?? I believe only smaller containers of their plastic is available elsewhere. http://www.fishingworld.com/M-F-Manufacturing/Details.tmpl?ID=981857548159863

No, Lurecraft is not in Canada

You mean...USER ERROR? The last batch of brushes I got from HB are very "wispy". I think I am introducing the bubbles as I apply. I say that because there are no bubbles in the mixing cup. They do dissipate almost immediately and are not an issue. The "epoxy" brushes are the thicker black bristled ones you described. I will take a pic of both later and post them.

I was using those acid brushes from harbor freights. They seemed to work ok until I found some "epoxy brushes" at a local hobby shop. They have 3 times the amount of bristles and they don't fall out like the HB acid brushes do. They cost .20 each and i throw them away. I also don't get any bubbles like I did with the HB brushes.

I think it might be paint over foil. i saw that bait as well. Why don't you just ask the painter of the bait?

I wouldn't worry about it too much. I believe the only patent they have is with the sweet beaver.

Any bait poured without salt will want to rise toward the surface. If you fished an unsalted stick with a weight or shakey head it should stand straight up once it reaches bottom. Fished Carolina Rig it should skim of the bottom as well. Salt is mainly used for weight but isn't necessary in most cases. I think people pour sticks with salt because GY does. IMO

Are you mixing it 50/50 with water? Make sure your mold is bone dry before you seal. i would flood the cavities and let it sit in there for close to a minute. Pour out the excess and repeat 2 more times. Make sure everything is dry again be pouring. It has been my experience that is the Elmers came up when pouring, then I applied it before the mold was completely dry. You can also try sealing with E-tex (Michael's)or maybe 30 minute Devcon 2 Ton (D2T Ace Hardware) thinned with denatured alcohol

The Lurecraft molds were made from the original Skinny Dipper and the smaller one (Little Dipper, i think). They have a flat side. They are slightly smaller because of shrinkage. It is a good bait. I poured many of these. Hard to beat them for the price. The Basstackle bait is a full round inject. All I can say is I have a designated set up just for those swimmers. If you gave me a choice of 50 RI's SD or 25 of BT's shot in M-F medium, I would take basstackle's bait every day! It's that good. RD....I hope you are reading this because I am running low!

Although the vendor wasn't named, one of his baits were. I'm sure he will be posting shortly. It has been my experience that you get what you pay for with the blanks. The ones that go for around a buck are crap. All of the blanks made of the white, cheaper plastic are crap. Most if not all of the wires are loose. However, I have found the newer blanks (more expensive) made of the clear ABS plastic are of very good quality.

http://www.createxcolors.com/

They make injectors in various sizes. I would ask the mold maker. I would think if it wouldn't fill, then he would let you know that before he made the mold. But, then again, stranger things have happened!

If you are not getting shiney baits then you do need to reseal your molds. That is why you are getting the bubbles. Good thing you mentioned that. I've always used a 50/50 mix of Elmers glue and water. I flood the cavities and let it sit for about 3--40 seconds then pour out into container. i repeated that 3 times. Make sure the mold is absolutely (bone) dry before sealing and and prior to pouring. There are other materials you can use for sealing, but that's what worked form me.