Richard Prager

Not all plastic settles out. Using M-F''s plastisol in the 5 gallon container, all that is needed is to rock it back and forth 1/2 dozen times and it's ready to pour using the spout. It is also bubble free.

Stop being lazy

You're welcome!

www.basstackle.com and www.del-mart.com both sell the molds and inserts for them.

I was having the exact same problem. The filter on the compressor shows moisture in it although no moisture comes out when I press on the valve or open it up. I bought an Iwata pistol grip filter and that solved the problem (which you guys told me to get one in the first place!). Whether or not the trap on the compressor is working I was still getting moisture in the hose. It is a 1/8" fitting and connects to the bottom of the airbrush. It is small and does not get in the way. I bought from this guy for 9.99 on e-bay. http://shop.ebay.com/sugartaji/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25

I'll take them. PM sent

I found out the "paint" method quite by accident. I got a little too close with the brush. What I did find out though, it will work if you kind of just let the powder flow off the brush onto the lead. The brush is not actually touching the lead. You really have to load up some powder on the brush. I really didn't care for the way it looked compared to Cadman's (thank you Ted) tap method. Tapping gives it that airbrush look and blends nicely. I recently did some 3 oz jigs for a friend and found it very easy to tap as many colors as you like with the larger surface of that jig.

Worm Oil and DINP are one and the same.

I'm no expert by any means and there might be easier ways to tie, but this way works for me. I slide the band as far as it will go and then adjust the skirt the way I like it. Then, I just turn it upside down and wrap a twist tie arounfd the top part to keep it out of the way. I use this thread from Leland. It's cheap and will not break no matter how tight you tie it. It also does cut through the skirt material. Best of all shipping is FREE! I wrap it around 10 times and tie a few knots. Then, I snip the band off and put a little Sally Hansen Strong As Nails over the knot. It soaks right in. Hope this helps. http://www.flyfishin...ly_tying_thread

Try e-bay. Accent has an e-bay store

On the re-heats, get it nice and hot so the plastic gets thinner. You can stir the bubbles out prior to pouring. The thinner plastic will allow the bubbles to stir out and come to the top. Then pour. Some guys "skim" the bubbles off the top or take a mini torch to it. I always just stirred them right out. You'll find what works for you, but you do need to remove the bubbles prior to pouring.

I used M-F plastic for several years along with RTV molds, aluminum, resin, etc. I've never had the problem you are encountering. I never heated nor washed any of my rtv molds and had some that were about 20 years old. Could heating and washing them be the culprit? The only thing I did to rtv molds prior to pouring , was to apply a little worm oil or scent with a sponge brush to get a shiny finish on my baits.

Thanks for putting your time and effort in to making the video. I've just started out airbrushing hard baits and found it very helpful. I'm not one for following written or verbal instruction, so watching something like this really makes the difference! I'm looking forward to see your next one. Richard

Yes, you can use LC colorants with M-F plastic. You can use any colorant with any of the plastics. The only difference in the colorants from from the various vendors are that the specific colors are different and potency will vary.

http://www.fishingwo...-Manufacturing/ for the colorant I think Alsworms posted a recipe for it a while ago. Check out the search engine for it. I would but I'm off to bed!

I can't answer that question, but Ace Hardware carries it and you can find D2T on e-bay

oooops, didn't realize you said RTV. Yeah, the griddle is out on that one. You can brush a little scent or worm oil on with one of those sponge brushes. That will give you a shiny finish and possibly help with the flow as well. Check the spouts prior to buying as all spouts are not created equal.

Most of the above suggestions are right on. Anchor Brand makes a smaller one cup size than Pyrex brand. This is what you need to use. One continuous stream is the key. You can also pour on a pancake griddle set on warm or low. This will help with the flow into the feet, arms, whatevever. A little practice and you'll be doing 3 color pours.

It also works like a dream to put those rattle bands on.

Does the flake make the differance? Yes, it does. Try adding a drop of brown or orange to it.

You would find better prices on his website

I use Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel (blue bottle) to glue on both flat at 3D eyes. After that, I clear coat the entire jig with D2T. Then I tie on the skirt. The last thing i do is glue in the weed guard with the same locktite. If I get any epoxy in the hole, I take a dremel to it. I learned that here. Now, if i could only learn how to fish!

http://www.fishingworld.com/M-F-Manufacturing/

When you are using less salt, it takes less heat to get to the same pourable (viscosity) state you were achieving with the more salted formula. Sounds like you scorched it a bit. You might try heating it a little slower. Was the plastic off color before you added the flake?