Richard Prager
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Everything posted by Richard Prager
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You've got mail!
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Hey Craig........good to see you back around here and good luck with the hand injection! You might try dipping just the edge. I believe some guys also paint the edge. I'm not sure what type of paint they use. Maybe someone else will chime in.
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Maybe you can pour a small amount of plastic (on whatever surface). Then, with a rotary type tube tail cutter, cut thin strips. Adhere the strip to the middle of the insert, then shoot. Or, possibly, melting the ends of the strip together to create a rubber band and slipping that over the insert? If it was a tight enough fit, it might just stay in place. You might have to put a notch in either end of the insert to hold it in place.
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I couldn't tell you for sure. But I don't see why you woudn't be able to with any type of coloring. Just start off with a small amount.
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You shouldn't need to use heat stabilizer in the initial heating. It is already in the plastisol. For reheats all you should need is about 4 drops per cup. It is the heat stabilizer that is smoking as that will burn off first. In 5 years of pouring I think I used about 3 ounces of heat stabilizer at best.
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You might also try the coloring blocks used for candles. They have a large variety of colors and shades and cost about $1 per block. This is also a great place if you need extra bottle with Yorker spouts http://stores.ebay.c...http://stores.ebay.com/CANDLECHEM-COMPANY?_rdc=1
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You might try http://www.fishingskirts.com/
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The water probably got absorbed into the plastic. I've never put my baits in water. Just lay them out straight in an aluminum pan overnight. If you're in a hurry you can stick them in the fridge for a few hours.
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Your efforts and info are appreciated. I googled pyrex not to long ago. I think I posted it on Delw's site in a thread similar to this one. Apparently, in the 70's I believe it was, you were able to put Pyrex on direct heat. They were made differently then. That is no longer true.
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We know that but allot of people starting out aren't aware of it. We get so excited when our first molds, plastic and other supplies arrive, we just want to start making baits. Been there. It's important to read the "Don'ts for Newbies" as well as utilizing the MUCH OVERLOOKED search engines in each forum. Plastic at 300+ degrees burns like heck and keeps cooking once it spills on you. You can't make from a hospital bed. Anyone pouring plastics, do yourself a favor and keep some Silver Sulfadiazine close by.
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with heat resistant handles
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How Much Scent And When To Add It?
Richard Prager replied to rugbyfisherman's topic in Soft Plastics
I always added my scent just prior to bagging. At first i did add scent to the hot plastic but then i had to add again to help in the bagging process. I figure I was just wasting it. The deep fry thermometer should work if it is made to take the heat. With a little practice, you should be able to tell by the viscosoity when stirring the plastic. I think thermometers are over rated and not neccesary. -
here's one thread http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/9686-anyone-know-how-to-make-a-fluke-mold-from-pop/page__p__64277__hl__%2Bhook+%2Bslots__fromsearch__1#entry64277 If you do a search fro "hook slots" in the Soft Plastics Forum you will find many threads on this subject. I went through just a few and grabbed this one for you.
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I believe that thread is still here. You really have to go through some threads to find it. I think you will find it if you search "basstrix"
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There is no need to tilt your mold or "poke". The key is to top off the cavities before the plastic contracts too much. If you top off too late, you are actually creating the air pockets. After you fill the cavities, just go over all of them and watch to see if you need to do it again. This should solve your problem. Don't get frustrated, it just takes a little practice.
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I found this by typing in "making resin molds" in the search engine above. There are plent more. i just grabbed the first one. Hope this helps. http://www.tackleund...http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/18168-easy-resin-mold/
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Wooden dowels work well and on smaller jigs, a piece of toothpick.
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http://www.dreamlakelodge.com/indexcss.html
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I believe you want to use the essential oils and not the extract. The extract is 1/4 as potent as it is diluted when it's made
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I think he's talking about a trailer keeper for a jig. Could be wrong, though.
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Worm Mold That Comes Closest To Creme Scoundrel
Richard Prager replied to Bullsbug's topic in Soft Plastics
I believe they already have that mold available there. The pictures of the molds downright suck. I would take Dave's advice and call Kim at Lurecraft. She''ll know immediately if she has it or not. -
I always first achieved the weight I wanted and then added softener until I got it to my liking. With a small amount of plastic you should not need too much softener. I always just counted the drops out of a bottle or used measuring spoons. I've played around with many different salts, flouring and not and ended up using Morton's Pickling Salt right out of the (green)box. As far as the heat stabilzer, it will also make some of the colors brighter. Just my findings and what worked for me.
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Here you go: http://senkosam.tripod.com/index.html
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They have plenty on e-bay in those sizes. Just do a general search such as 18mm eyes
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There you go! I guess it was that easy. It would have never worked for me, I'm sure! LOL What did you make your masters out of?
