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Richard Prager

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Everything posted by Richard Prager

  1. Not a problem mixing. Start off slow with the Lurecraft colors. They are quite a bit more concentrated than M-F. Probably 3 times as strong.
  2. Alsworms use to pour similar baits. They we poured in layers. Look at Lurecraft for some of the molds as I use to have them as well.
  3. One thing you can try when doing reheats (and more importantly re-melts) is to add some uncooked plastic of the same color in with it. Works very well for me.
  4. Try adding more colorant. White scorches easy and can't take the reheating like other colors.
  5. What you are doing with the salt is fine. It sounds like you're scorching the plastic a bit. Did it start out white and then turn as you poured more?
  6. I would go right to the source and ask Bear. He has or had that split tail mold and of course he has the injectors. I just went and checked some of Bob's molds that I have, against Bear's medium injector. The 3.5" frog's sprue is a little too small for the nozzle. The 4" frog's sprue is large enough but you don't get the snug fit as with the molds intended for it's use. I, myself wouldn't try it as it's an accident waiting to happen..........for sure! A little too much pressure and boom, it's coming back at you. I've been contemplating the same thing because I like the injection molds I have of Bear's. The thing to remember is, if you do inject Bob's or any other "hand pour" molds, you still have to go back and "top off". With the single cavity injection molds, you can do the laminates and they do not require any topping off. I do believe one or some of the guys modified the nozzle (I don't remember for which molds but there is thread on his site) to fit snug and inject more safely with the "hand pour molds".
  7. Del-Mart 6 1/4" 5 cavity Stik mold SKU: SKU16145 6 1/4" 5 cavity Stik mold Dia is 7/16, Length is 6 1/4" New $121..........will sell for $100 shipped US only
  8. Here is a very recent thread on your question. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17528-clearest-plastic/
  9. The tic-tac might be worth a try. It has been slow here.
  10. Try your go to colors but experiment with different highlight powders. One of my favorites is Green Pumpkin/blue flake/blue highlight powder.
  11. I find hand pouring easier to make a reproduceable bait than the hand injection. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.
  12. Anchor brand makes a smaller 8oz cup. You can get a pretty thin stream with that. It just takes a little practice. If you use only only 2-4 oz in the cup you will have good control over the stream. Let the core set up about 30 seconds then pour the top. If you pour the top too soon you will get a split vein. The core will run to the sides. At least this is how I do it and it works pretty good.
  13. The formula sounds about right. I hope you are using the sinking soft. You do have to use some sftener with it. About 1 capful per cup. At least this what I find works best for me. Remember, this is a denser plastic so it will take a little longer to get it to a good pourable state. It sounds like you are not getting the plastic hot enough.
  14. I like it better and it is faster. Just takes a little getting used to.
  15. This is what I've found out with the hand injection: It is very safe. I don't see how you can get burned unless you are very careless. You must clamp the molds. You shoot the baits and the plunger stops when the mold is filled. Remove and go on to the next mold. I can make baits that cannot be made any other way. Baits that absolutely will not fill by pouring from pyrex or pot. I have 10 single cavity molds and 4 3-cavity molds.That's 22 baits If my plastic is ready (about 2 cups) it takes 4 fills with a medium injector and without rushing, 4 seconds to fill each mold. The molds are hinged so they open quickly and easily. The plastic from the runners get tossed in the Presto Pot if I am using it for that and remelted and re-shot. 14 x 4 seconds is 56 seconds. Call it a minute. That's 22 baits in a minute. If I had enough plastic ready and somebody demolding and reclamping that 1,320 baits an hour. The single cavity molds to not heat up like the multi cavity molds. I can shoot the 10 single cavity molds all day and not have to open them using gloves. These are just my findings. I use my pot, hand injection and the Pyrex.
  16. With the 6x4 I'm bagging up to 25 per bag. Just squirt them down with scent before you bag them. They will bag very easy.
  17. Sounds like you are "scorching" the plastic. Try heating 1 cup for 1 1/2 minutes stir, then 30 second blasts, stirring in between until pourable.
  18. You should all be stand up comics. This guy is trying to sell some of his equipment and I can't believe what I've been reading here!
  19. I tried the pot for injection the other day. You would still need a fair amount of plastic to suck up the plastic because of the wide bottom of the pot. You also have to continuously stop and start the stirrer. If I was doing a large amount of single color......maybe. I can use the Pyrex for injection and what little amount I have left, I can just pour out some worms. Out of an 8 oz Pyrex, I can inject 7 1/2 oz. That's just what I'm comfortable with since I started with the mic and Pyrex. I do use the pot to pour sticks (as little as 1 cup plastic plus salt) and 50+ pieces of frogs and big tricks.
  20. Thanks for taking the time to write that. It is most interesting and explains alot!
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