Richard Prager

I get all of my labels from these guys. They are quite a bit cheaper than Office max, etc. and don't rape you on shipping. The quality of their product is as good or better than Avery. They also have a web site. eBay Store - Labels: Laser Labels, Inkjet Labels, Address Label

Try aisle #8:D Sorry, I just had to do that! I'm sure somebody will chime in.

When I flood the mold, I let the mixture sit there and soak for about a minute before I pour it out.

Was your mold completely dry before you started sealing?

M-F Manufacturing Co., Inc. - 817- 281-9488 / Fax 817-281-9498

I think that by adding anything other than flake after the plastic is pourable is just taking up time and allowing the plastic to cool faster. This means more reheats and can lead to inconsistent coloring (scorching, flake bleeding/curling) Once you get your color formula down, there's no benefit that I can see not to add the color first.

You might want to try this: Take one cup of plastisol and nuke it for 1 minute on high. Take it out and stir. Hit it for 30 seconds, take out and stir. repeat this 30 second blast and stir. You will see it go from virgin plastic to starting to thicken. As it starts to thicken in will go from white to clear. On one of the stirs you will notice the last bit of white plastic turn to clear and thin as you stir. It's now in it's pourable state. You don't need to know the temp. because you will see the change happen right in front of you. You should be able to pour, reheat for 30 seconds and pour some more if need be. You should be able to hit it for a third 30 minute blast with discoloration. It works for me.

I would put your color in first. It won't look that way when the plastic is pourable so write your formulas down. Put your flake in when the plastic is ready to pour. The difference in the amount of color needed without salt to using with salt can easily be doubled to achieve the same color. I've never had any luck with the recipes posted. I just make up my own as I go along. There just seems to be too many variables thus creating a lot of waste. It's trial and error. You can use the recipes to get a general idea. This is what works for me.

I tend to agree with Longhorn. GP with red with make it appear more brown, whereas GP with green with make it appear more green.

Categories Johnson Bag Company

A Flat Rate Envelope to Canada is $11.95. A lot of tubes can fit in that. If the customer pays through Paypal, you can just buy the postage online, print it out and give it to your letter carrier. You save on packing supplies and gas to the post office

A little practice is all it takes.

M-F Manufacturing, sorry M-F Manufacturing Co., Inc. - 817- 281-9488 / Fax 817-281-9498 VERY easy to mix and the plastic doesn't settle out at all. Their hardener is really thick and is actually pourable by itself. I use a 3:1 (regular to hardener) ratio everyday.

Sweet!

Could be that. Try nuking 1 cup for 2 minutes on high (with color) stir and do 30 second blasts with stirring after each blast. Add flake and pour Also make sure your plastic containers are stored with the lids on tight. Moisture will cause bubble also.

Well done!!!! Thanks for the pics and the explanation. Makes me want to give it a shot. I'm glad to see more people posting their findings lately, good, bad or indifferent. That's what it's about!

I agree. Now, can someone send me the rules on that porn?

I use M-F regular and their hardener all the time. Both mix easy and doesn't settle out. You can make the mixture of your liking.

If you are talking about re-heating plastic after if hardens, this is what works for me. Like Del said, I cut the plastic into small chunks. I found that if I have 1/2-3/4 cup I can put my microwave on power #8 for 2:22 (usually) and my plastic will be ready to pour with very little bubbles. If I get a lot of bubbles then I'm heating it too fast or too high. Like Prochallenger said, there are just too many variables to really get it down pat. The type of plastic being used, even the color. I find that recipes with more drops of color take longer to heat, etc. Lighter colrs are not as forgiving. Try not to reheat too fast and work your way up to the pourable state. If you get a lot of bubbles, stir for a bit and set it aside. The bubbles will disappear. Some people skim the bubbles off or even zap it with a flame. I set it aside and wait. With my luck, if I used the flame, I'd probably burn down the garage! The more you practice, the more you'll figure out what you can do with what you're working with. If you have the time, spend it searching old threads. A few hours reading the old threads will save you months trial and error and a ton of wasted money. Sorry for babbling, but I just drank some Cuban Coffee!

...and I had to get my glasses just to watch the video!

Pro.....do you mix the paste with the oil in a blender and puree it? Then squirt in on? Sounds interesting.

I received my crawdad oil yesterday. I put 8 drops in two different bags of baits. One was green pumpkin and one was white. It seems to have the same lubricating qualities as other scents I have used. The baits we fine this morning, had a good smell and still lubricated. The smell is definitely NOT stronger than any scents I have used either. I poured some baits tonight and put a squirt in the pyrex just after I cooked the plastic. Green Pumpkin and white again. It worked just fine without any discoloration. I also give the baits a squirt while they are in the aluminum pan to set up. The crawdad oil seems to work just fine. It has a kind of sweet smell but it doesn't seem to be any stronger or better than the Upper Hand scents I've been using all along. But definitely better than other brands I have tried in the past. I was hoping it would knock me out of my chair. That, it didn't do. If you covered the labels, I couldn't tell which was which. Now, with all that was said and done, I still for the life of me, do not understand the purpose or benifits of worm oil when you can use scent. Thanks for everyone's input.

If you really want to let it go, I'll take it!

What's the opening bid?

Take a look at the side of the bottle. Mine say New Formula. I just came back from pouring some myself. Yesterday, I poured the same amount of drops (16) in a cup, no salt. I didn't really care for the change. I just poured 1 cup with 18 drops and 1 cup with 20 drops. Although there was not much difference between the 18 and 20, there was quite a bit between 16 and 18. It is not as green as the old formula but more olive or brown. The color is not bad, just different.