Richard Prager

That's weird. My new GP is definitely weaker and is also a totally different color. A dollar to a doughnut says Kim will chime in soon.

I just opened up a bottle of GP I received a few months back. It is totally different. (It does have a warning about a new formula)I used the same amount of drops. It is more translucent and it looks like it might be made with watermelon. Their GP was my favorite Lurecraft color and the one I got the most compliments with. I suck at matching colors and don't really like to bother with putting so many drops of this and so many drops of that. I don't want to have to take new pictures, either. I just HATE CHANGE!

I've seen just the grips also. You should be able to get them for about $10

That's a picture to treasure. He'll be running the trolling motor next month! Don't forget to send the other picture in.............the one with you in the tutu:D It's Halloween. You can get away with it!

Is this what you are looking for?

Try doing a search on e-bay for (lews,lew's,lew childre)They quite often have the pistol grip handles up there, if it is like handles on the old Lew's speed sticks.

After reading Jim's earlier post I remembered an earlier thread on oils. Someone swore by Johnson's brand Baby Oil. I bought some and mixed it with a little scent. I just dug up a whole box of those sticks (no salt). They are over two years old and just as soft and full of color as the day I made them. These are not in air tight bags, but the cheap BPS worms boxes. Can't smell any scent, though. Jim, if you still have any of the sticks I sent you, check them out. They were made the same way. Getting back to the scent issue.....A little bit of scent allows for easy packaging. Why cut the scent with plain oil at whatever the amount per pint, quart,etc.?? I just ordered some crawdad oil for $10 a pint. We'll see how that works and I'll post the results. Thanks for the tip, Prochallenger!

Thanks for the info, Pro. I'll check it out. If I can cut down costs and better my product, it's win, win!

That's what I'm not understanding. Why not just use 100% scent and scrap the worm oil? It lubricates just the same.

Where are these oils (fish, crawfish)available?

Thanks for the replies. I did receive some baits from another TU member a while back. His baits were packed with worm oil. I found that it is too slick and was a pain in the butt to rig. I've been using Upper Hand and have no discoloration with any opaque baits. With white and other SOLID lighter colors, I squirt a few drops before cooking and mix well. After I demold, I also squirt some on the baits and mix them around so it doesn't pool up. I don't notice any discoloration. I was forced to try this because I ran out of Anise. I do, however notice some discoloration on more translucent lighter colors occasionally like a lighter watermelon or blue smoke pearl.

I have read in many posts about people using worm oil for easier packaging as well as coating rtv molds to achieve a shiny finish. Why wouldn't scent just be used for both applications? I've never used worm oil before so I'm not sure if it has different qualities.

I think if you call them up and talk to them, they would send a small sample (pint) if you pay for shipping. Everyone I have dealt with in this business have always been very helpful.

You're right Prochallenger. You have to order the SS hikers from Barlow's. You are definitely better off with the ss than the copper ones.

Mustad 5/0 91768BLN and add a stainless steel hitchhiker both are available from Fishing Lure Making Products, Soft Plastics, Lead Molds, Hooks and more! - LureCraft ]

I rarely use the Presto Pot I made. But when I do use it, I only use two cups at a time and I guess it takes about 15 minutes for it to be ready to pour. It takes me much longer to use the pot than Pyrex/microwave, but that's just me.

If you roll out a slab of high fire clay, you can use a "loop tool" or even tools found around the kitchen to carve out a bait. You need to allow for close to 12-15% shrinkage. Fire and and seal with elmers 50/50 or thinned epoxy. If you find the clay a bit to soft to work with, just place a plastic bag over it for a day, It is easier to work with when almost "leather hard".

I believe if you just fire the greenware and then just coat it with the sealer of your choice, it would work fine. I wouldn't use glaze as it would be too thick. You'd lose any detail and would not have good edges. Good idea!

Either way is fine. I bought Del's Stick Kit when I first started. It's a great starting point. Have fun and you've been warned about this addiction. Read as many of the past threads as you can.....then read them again. There is a wealth of information on this site that will literally save you months if not years of trial and error! Here is an old post of mine.......fictional but highly possible! Hi, This is Richard. I'm writing from rehab. With these intensive therapy sessions, they say I am making great progress and should be home in a few more weeks. I have to keep this short because I'm not allowed on this site anymore. If they catch me, they consider it a relapse and will keep me here another 3 months. They sent someone to my shop to clean out my molds and supplies ( I hid all the good stuff) as this is a program of total abstinence. I think I got them fooled and will making my new shop in the basement, well hidden. I think if I limit myself to 2 molds and basic colors/flake, I'll be ok. I hear them coming, I've got to go!

WOW! a 4th nozzle for expresso?

A while back, Bob had some one of a kind prototypes up on e-bay. There were a couple similar if not the same as that. Did that guy buy it and sell it to Yum? Am I missing something here? I don't understand what the problem is. Not trying to stir anything up but I'd like to hear complete the story. Was this a one of a kind mold that Yum bought or was it a mold that was offered to all on Bob's web site?

I bought some of those 7" curl tails from the e-bay guy. That makes a great worm. I tried to contact him several times but never received a response. And this was at the time I was buying his molds. His handle was Machinist1979 if any one wants to try getting a hold of him. I also tried to contact the "Machinist" who was posting here for a while and never received any response. They are two different people. The e-bay guy lives in Iowa and the guy from here I believe was from New Jersey. I guess they both realized the time and effort involved wasn't worth it for them.

After I remove the Pyrex cup from the microwave, I set it on a brazing board. It retains the heat in the cup as well as avoiding contact with any cold surface. They are cheap, too! This is what I solder jewelry on so it's made to take the heat. Brazing Board 6x12 Inch

Well said! Tell her right now....all you want is the garage and an air mattress. The rest is yours, honey! You'll save on court costs.

I threw some white scraps on the Sunday funnies and they made a perfect transfer. Unless the fish are dyslexic, I don't think they could read them!