Richard Prager

spoonpluggergino....thanks for that tip. Both my CS's are doing that right now. This after cleaning and it's been driving me nuts. One brush is 5 years old and the other maybe 3 and used almost every day...Never had this happen before....and was totally baffled...You are my new hero!

Bought this compressor and love it. Quiet enough for indoors and has everything you need I also recommend the iwata Eclipse CS I have the more expensive Hi Line and use the Eclipse 99% of the time Buy once...you get what you pay for.... http://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1650A-1-6-Gallon/dp/B00889ZYEC/ref=sr_1_6/182-4479793-1564117?ie=UTF8&qid=1429842268&sr=8-6&keywords=ultra+quiet+air+compressor

i see white base coat...small chartreuse strip on the upper part of the shoulder, cheeks, and bottom. Red over the chartreuse on the bottom. Pearl purple over the white base on top....

Polytranspar and Auto Air

I dip my brush in the DA after the epoxy is mixed and before each of the 2 baits i do at a time. I use fresh DA each batch. I pour a little in a small glass cup similar to a shot glass. I started having trouble after a few months dipping it right into the container. I guess the epoxy ended up in the DA and started getting little chunks. For years i would never thin it, but it definitely does not impede the integrity of the epoxy. Humidity does play a big part and have been clear coating indoors. BSI is odorless which I need to you because of Emphysema. After an hour, I put a couple of the indoor 65W floodlights in front of the turner. it drops the humidity from about 60% to about 40 and raises the temp from 75 to about 85 degrees. I started with the lights when I was clear coating in the garage and just continued when i brought it indoors.

I use BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy... I never measure but do a 5 count of each part into a plastic medicinal cup. Mix the crap out of it with a drill and piece of spinnerbait wire bent at 90 degrees. Then I dip the brush in DA and any bubbles will disperse. That is more than enough for 2 baits which is all i have time to do if I take my time. I will do the lipless as my 2nd of the two baits if possible. As the DA evaporates and the epoxy THICKENS, it does not "pull" away from the edges. I find the key to brushing epoxy on is to have enough on the brush, so it will "flow" as you brush it as opposed to the epoxy being "pulled" with the brush. A little more info here than needed to answer the question, but this is my process and works very well for me.

Great for ktchen oven too! Beats a pair of pot holders!

The search engine is your friend!

....and hand injection process starting of with single cavity molds that were first sold......he's made molds for the big guys many years ago....

Are these poured from your standard plastisol. How durable are they? They do look great in the water and hope you have exclusivity on the mold design! Good luck with it. Didn't notice the $8 for 5 of them. That's not bad at all......I NEED SOME! GOT SOME........

As alsworms says.....more molds.....period. or....don't prepare as much plastic.... You should have enough molds to pour out the batch you make up. Putting them in front of a floor fan helps allot after filling them. I think the bottom line is ....you are NEVER going to have enough molds and ALWAYS going to have left over plastic. If you you do buy a bunch more molds and really get into it....if you are married find a good Divorce Attorney!

I use the Iwata Eclipse CS......you would neverneed another brush. The Neo really isn't an iwata. it is made overseas. Some guys swear by the iwata Revolution.

I don't have a problem...make sure you squirt the water out of it every 10 casts or so...

It shouldn't be normal business for anybody....try calling

I have bought chatterbits that have the same weedguard. I think it is a gimmick and will cause allot of missed fish. I believe it actually hinders the setting of the hook. I cut it off and tossed it. It is very stiff. I have good success with regular weedguards

I just recently started thinning it a bit. Like RayburnGuy has said in the past...mix your epoxy first, then i just dip the brush in the DA. I only get 2 baits....3 if I they are real small. I was in the past of never thinning but it seems to work for me. Whether thin or not, the epoxy should flow on and not have to be pulled on. If that is the case it is past the workable stae and won't even out. If you are getting waves in your finish it is most likey being applied it has already started to set and won't even out on the turner. I really like the BSI 30 minute slow cure. I've tried their finish cure and you get allot more working time but it seems that it does take 2 coats. Works out to the same and I like the finish on the 30 minute slow cure. I have also submersed them for over 48 hours without any issues. Works for me and I need to use something odorless due to Emphysema....

Mixed just fine...thanks again, BobP! No cloggingand made enough of a difference to where it should require just the one coat. Based 6 baits easily.....backwashed, pulled and wiped the needle as usual between colors without any extra effort! I'm happy!

I find the humidity plays a big part as well. The higher temp will make it cure faster, but make sure you let it leverl out before raising the temp. I find it very forgiving to mix. An 8 count of each part works fine for me. I think the humidity plays a bigger role than the temp.

Thanks, BobP..Yeah, it does dry quick. The createx does take a long time to dry. I'll tell you one thing, the Super Hide lasts forever!

I've been using Polytranspar Super Hide but it is just too thin. Shoots great but doesn't give a real solid opaque coat. I bought some Createx White and reducer which I don't like using. I have had trouble with Createx White clogging my gun in the past but it covered great.I wonder if i can just mix the 2 whites together? I don't reduce anything but Black... Somebody enable me and tell me it should not be a problem mixing the 2 together. Both are water based

You want to use the BSI 30 minute slow cure. You will have enough time to do 2 baits. it is almost identical to D2T. You need to use a dryer/turner. it cures at 70 degrees according to the package, but humidity is a key factor. I mix the crap out of it with a drill and wire bent at 90 degrees. Then, dip your brush in denatured alcohol and mix. This will disperse any bubbles. I'm doing this all indoors. I put them on the turner for an hours, then use clamp on shop lights with 60 watt indoor bulbs that I use in the kitchen. It takes the temp and humidity from 75degrees/58% humididty to about 85 degrees/38% humidity. I leave the lights on for about 8 hours and is ready to ship in the morning. I've been using this for about 3 years with 99.9% sucess indoors. Because of health reasons I need to use something odorless. Works for me!

Plastic .99 shoebox from Home Depot if they are small for cranks and you have kids.....you can use an empty container of wipes

I've bought the finished product. great guy to deal with..... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXLmPw2p5vjfE2dQH8OTINg LMAO....should have scrolled down further....there he is! Slav is a great guy to deal with and fast!

Ryan, sites looking good. I agree with Alsworms about your shipping prices. You will lose money....1-3 oz with shipping lable purchased online is 1.93. I bet a bag of anyything weighs that much. What I use to do is have 2 prices for plastics. $5 flat rate envelope. You can fit about 10 bags of baits in there. !0.95 for medium flat rate box will will hold allot. When people see the shipping is the same $5 for up to 10 packs, It tends to make them want to buy a few more bags. Just a thought. I never had a single complaint about shipping in several years

Feed store....then pay a neighborhood kid to powder it in a blender....