Richard Prager

What kind of brush are you using and what size nozzle does it have? I use an Iwata Eclipse (gravity feed) and don't have to thin anything except Createx white and white pearl. i do not buy these any longer but use Polytranspar Super Hide for white and also their white pearl which do not need thinning. You can also use Auto Air white metallic for white pearl. I have a .035 tip....just what works for me and I've tried all the thinners.

shot at an angle.....there is a video in here somewhere about 3D scaling effects....IMO I"ve been wrong before, though....just ask my wives!

Try Lurecraft

No, the BPS in (Miami) Dolphin Mall sucks. The one in Dania (by Ft Lauderdale Airport is good) but not for lure making supplies. Only tackle. I would suggest placing your orders online at some of the tackle making suppliers in the states, having them shipped to your hotel or wherever you are staying and bring them back with you.

I use to buy it from this guy. it works great on #4 and up. I don't bother with them any more, though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FISH-LURE-HOOK-PROTECTOR-TUBING-50-FT-CLEAR-VINYL-/380281432518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588a8a29c6 50 feet for $8.50 free ship and quick

Rmullen99 just curious to how much you are looking to buy? Do you want it to make your own scent?

Unless you're using the same cup to pour all 4 cups, it doesn't matter which method you use. I think we are way over complicating this for a small amount of plastic like 4 cups. Squirt your color in, pour your baits before the lakes freeze over!

If you're only making 4 cup batches, the amount you get from counting drops should be consistent enough.

I use a pair of needle nose to stretch open the o-ring and slide the stick through. The bottom 1/2 of a pen would probably work the same as the tool if the stick fits in it.

http://robertslures.com/technical.html

Thanks, Curt and once again....all the best!

Thank you, Jerry, family and friends who put their blood, sweat and tears (showing my age) in TU and making it hands down the best tacklemaking forum....period! I also would like to welcome Curt and wish him the best of luck...! I'm sure things will be fine with this site. I just hope we don't lose valued members as we have in the past and occasionally still do for various reasons. Allot of times I open my mouth, hit enter and say oh, ______wish i didn't do that! Sometimes I don't care because I also like to stir the pot a bit. We have many,many different personalities here and sometimes I see an opportunity to avoid "kicking my dog" because i had a bad day or just plain didn't like what I was reading on a thread. Sometimes a few of us"go at it" but it usually works itself out before and real damage is done. But we have lost several major contributing members because of these things. It is also IMO easy to misinterpret the written word here, etc. On the other hand, some just like to push buttons. As I welcome, you Curt, this site has been here long before you as has it's members. I cannot imagine the pressure you are under at the moment with this, but I'm sure it's immense. I do however take exception to your response to Bob because you didn''t like what he had to say. I am not friends with Bob, but I feel he is entitled to his opinion, experience or whatever he chooses to voice because he has earned his seat here. There are giver, takers and Lurkers. The Lurkers are usually the major companies with the $$$$$ stealing the creative and unique ideas allot of members here come up with. As I stated earlier, I do not want to see TU go through another mass exodus of the best tacklemakers on the planet because their contributions are invaluable......and just to throw this in....I see the "Lost Art" of Hand Pouring coming back! Good luck and let it fly if it don't apply!

I make them for my kids' bookbags. They call them tags. I attach them to the zipper with a split ring and swivel.

Lmao, no not a sucker at all.....I have boxes of boxes proving I am a sucker!.....just look at the member site....With all that is said , in my opinion this is the best tackle making forum around. I've learned how to hand pour plastics (yes the lost art) here. I read every thread, and people like Jim at Ghostbaits took me under his wing along with Alsworms and others I might be forgetting to mention. When I couldn't pour plastics any longer, Ted Chodor (cadman) took me under his wing and taught me how to skirted baits and powder 5 color jig heads using his tap method. Horzontal tubes from Bojon......Crank bait painting form all the guys that still participate especially LureProf. My highly sarcastic and Passive Agressive behavior from The Rookie. I have read every thread in every section and have done extentive search.....Guys willing to share their work and take the time to make detailed videos like Frank and Solarfall without having to worry or care about people copying their styles or techniques..Carolina Mike, Romeo Dichoso, rayburnGuy, Mike, BopP,etc....etc.........The high tech guys like Vodkaman and others.....don't take offense if I didn't metion your name. It's no good to get old......Longhorn with his silicone mold making and hot lamp set up.....Crawchuck and his detailed tutorials on making hard baits out of live craws.......Incredible stuff that save so much trial and error which equals tons of money and insight....toadfrog with his nutty ideas. The list goes on. So, with that being said, things get in here that shouldn't, maybe things get deleted that shouldn't..some shameless plugs and deceit might be intentional and somemight not......but it doesn't compare to the benefits and willings to share tacklemaking ideas and techniques. I help when I can, and I argue when I don't want to kick the dog! I would love to carve my own baits but Arthritis and Emyphsema keeps me from doing that. I can't use Auto Clear or any paints other than Createx, Auto Air and Polytranspar.....so i paint cheap Chinese blanks.....but the high end ones (LOL) I rambled on enough and hope this helps because this is what I get from coming here....if i offended anybody or if you don't agree with me......BITE ME!

We don't always see eye to eye on things......in fact, I've been known to stir the pot a bit. I have to agree with you on this and you problably wont be hearing from this guy who can't, spell, use propper grammer or American made products....another shameless plug on garbage.... Why you might ask......he has the same avatar here as he does on e-bay.....BUSTED and see ya! A dollar to doughnut says he's buy them already made in China for 1/3 the price... http://www.ebay.com/usr/den53

If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is.....sorry, if i'm a bit skeptical, but at that price ebay fees,etc. makes one wonder.......quality of blades, etc.?

Mine is 213 pixels by 211 pixels 131 k @ 72 dpi almost 3" by 3" document size

I have used both types of the homebrew thinners in the past. they worked well.. I found that the one with Pledge with Future, seemed to work the best as far as the homemade thinners....however, it does tend to force you to clean your gun more often. Proof of this came from laying my baits down and them sticking to the cardboard I lay down over my workspace. If i have to thin I will use the same stuff as rayburnGuy....Nothing worse than ruining a nice paint job and wating time over something that can be avoided

I haven't had a single complaint yet, so apparently it holds up very well. It is quite as thisck as D2T. If you see some spots that looks like you missed or seperated because of contaminatio, just wait till it thickens a tad and dab the epoxy on it. it will cover. A good light is very important because it is easy to miss spots.I find that temperature and lack of humidity is the key. It needs 70F to cure

I think you would have better results with the BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy.....one coat is all it takes, dries to the touch in a few hours and is fully cured in 24hr at 70 degrees. No bubble problemsif as long as you're not in hight humidity. Warm the bottles slightly slow it flow out better. A local hobby shop shuld carry it as the RC guys have been using his product for years. My hobby shop closed so I have to buy it online I found this to be the cheapest place hobbylinc.com Bob Smith Industries is out of California and put the names of the local distributors on the bottles...but they are on only company that makes the 30 minute slow cure so there shouldn't be a problem distinguishing their product.

I think that if you are going to stick with painting, I would consider starting to save for a good gravity feed. I like the iwata Eclipse CS with the .035 tip. Reason being, it only takes a few drops of paint to use and less air pressure so you are actually saving money and time. When I change colors, I backflush, pull, wet and and twirl the needle in very fine sandpaper and slide the needle back in. Takes all of 30 seconds. I have only taken apart the brush once in over a year to thoroughly soak in restorer. That was because i had a phone call and forgot about having paint in the cup. With this brush I do not have to thin any Createx, Auto Air or Polytranspar paints. I would have to for Createx White but do not use that any longer. I use Polytranspar Super Hide (which I found out about here) The Super Hide also lasts 3 times as long as the same amount as Createx White...It is also thinner and covers better. I also have the Iwata HL CH with the mac valve and has a .030 tip. This brush is awesome except I find with that size tip, I have to thin allot of the pearls and some of the thicker color shift paints. I don't like to thin anything. It is time consuming, inconsistant and a PIA because I just don't like fooling with that stuff. I bought 2 NIB Eclipse's on Ebay for $100 shipped each. I think the average good price is about $125. This is what works for me after trying different things. Some people enjoy playing around and mixing, others don't. Just thought I'd throw that out there

This site isn't about making or building a business. It is about tackle making and sharing info. It is about brainstorming and with that saving much time and $$$$$ by avoiding allot of trial and error. The only reason I'm commenting is because you asked not to....I always go against the grain and do not like being told what to do. If you don't want feed back don't post on a public forum. Still don't understand why you are leaving....and won't beg you to stay but if you are wanting to make tackle and are leaving, then all you are doing is cutting off your nose to spite your face. ..This forum has the most knowledge and the best tackemakers anywhere..............period!

I don't use D2T any more but BSI. If I see any spots that looked missed or pulled away a bit because of oils, i find that as the expoxy starts to thicken it will cover the areas if you go over it. I also find that Bsi does not pull away from the edges of lets say lipless baits like D2T tends to do. i think the most important factor is temperature and humitdity. JMO and found what works for me.....warming up the bottle help it flow better and bubbles and eleviate bubles. I mix mine up to a froth and do not have any issues

What doesn't matter either way? If you are willing do share ifo here, then why would you want to hide your feedback and purchases. In most cases, supplies are more expensive on e-bay....sometimes it is necessary to pick up items in smaller quantities there. If I need, let's say 50 #3 split rings, i can purchase from somebody that buys in bulk from Worth Co. and sells smaller packages. This way i don't have to buy 1,000 from Worth. It shows where and when and what you purchase but not why. Myself, I also purchase for friends overseas so they don't have to pay up the rear end for shipping. One never knows why people do the things they do.....most of of the time I don't know why I do the things I do....

Then, just get some that they have on sale. They run sales every week for like .60 each with free ship. Takes about 2 weeks to get. You can also practice on some pvc pipe I was referring to their website.....not e-bay sales. They have both.