BBC

I've never used a release agent and have never had a problem. I typically use soft plastic lures as masters and cut up a cereal box for the mold box (pour the RTV against the shiny side of the cardboard). Eric

saint, if you do the math it's just under 1/8 tsp per ounce (actually about 1/9 tsp per ounce but you can't really measure that much). Eric

ttomray, I was throwing a frog from Bob's mold for the first time over the weekend and it had good action at various speeds (even at a slower speed it was kicking up water). I've never thrown a store bought frog though so I can't compare it to anything else. Eric

thanks guys. That's exactly the type of advice I'm looking for!!! Eric

I'm going to be buying a boat in the near future and was wondering if anybody would be willing to recommend a fish finder for it. I'd like to put a unit on the front to start. I was looking at the Lowrance x96 and I think it'll do what I want it to do but I figured I ask the pros before I make my decision. Has anybody used this unit? Do you like it? Are there other units I should consider? I'd like to keep this at or under $200 but I'm willing to consider other options. As always, thanks for your help, Eric

Shawn Collins makes a mold for those. It's a one piece mold. I'm not sure if anybody here has it though (I don't). Eric

So far I've been pouring fairly simple colors such as single colors, laminates, and triple pours with decent success. I've seen and heard a little bit about core shots and would like to try my hand at it but I'm not exactly sure how. So, what makes a core shot a core shot? Is it just when you have one color of plastic inside a different color (surrounded on all sides)??? If so, what's the best way to do that? I would think it would be fairly easy with most one piece molds but how would you make a stick or a beaver style lure like that (2 piece molds)??? Thanks, Eric

Z, I doubt anybody would tell you exactly what it is. It's a trade secret. Otherwise, anybody could just buy what they need to make it themselves. According to the MSDS for Calhoun plastic it is PVC based. I think that's about all you're going to be able to find unless you can do the analytical chemistry to separate it and figure out what all is in it. Eric

bubbles would do it as well. eric

Is the RTV smooth inside the cavity??? My first guess is that the inside of the cavity isn't as smooth as it could be and the texture of the RTV is being transferred to the bait. You could try coating the inside of the cavity with a very light coat of worm oil or your scent of choice (as long as it's oil based). That should help. I've noticed that RTV molds that I make from a manufactured lure typically yield baits that don't have a perfectly smooth finish. Eric

I made a bunch of watermelon/lemon laminates (like yamamoto's senkos) last year and had a perfect match on the colors. I got the baits out last week (after they sat in my tackle box all winter) and the lemon isn't lemon anymore. It used to be opaque and it's now translucent. It's more of a very light chartreuse color now. Does anybody know what happened and how to fix it??? I don't have the formula in front of me right now but if I remember correctly I used LC lemon, Del's chartreuse, and Del's white dyes and used my standard stick formula for the plastic. The chartreuse was added before I heated the plastic (as per Del's recommendation). I coated the inside of the bags with worm oil before I put the baits in them. Also, I have baits from a couple different batches and they are all faded (some are worse than others though). Thanks, Eric

rocky, I drilled a hole in the center of the bottom of mine then used a thread tap so I could screw in my ball valve. I think I'd work better than putting it on the side (there's less wasted plastic on left in the pot). Just a thought. Eric

Ian, Nice work!!! Would you be willing to share more details about the boat (size, how much everything cost to do, etc.)? Eric

bd, I'd say it's possible but much easier with a one piece mold. I have a one piece RTV mold for my swimbait and if you pour the second color just before the first one sets up completely they mix a little which gives you a nice fade between the colors (much more natural looking). The one piece gives you more options and makes life easier, but like I said, it is possible with a two piece mold as well. Eric

flabasspond, How are you pouring laminates with the mold closed??? I'm assuming you're pouring both colors at the same time but can't imagine how that would work? How do you get both streams down the center of the hole? Don't the colors mix where they meet? Now you have me wondering about this... Eric

Del, I can pour thin tails if I have the mold sitting on a burner or griddle. To me, it's an unnecessary step and use of energy if I can get similar results with an RTV mold. Eric

I have Del's mold as well. I like it but I have trouble getting the tail thin enough to have enough action for my liking. I also made my own mold of a curl tail worm (6") that I like. I think an RTV mold is better when dealing with curl tails b/c you can get the tail thinner and they have more action then. Just my 2 cents. Eric

BM, I'd just get whatever you like to use. I have a 4" and 5" mold from Del. Both are very easy to pour. The 4" is a little tricky when pouring laminates but with a little practice it's not that hard. Del's stik kit is a very good way to start b/c you get the softener and salt with it (as well as a few other things). Two piece molds are very easy to pour. Some of the one piece molds are tricky until you get some practice with them. Eric

Just practice. After pouring a couple times you won't have to trim anymore. Eric

check out rodbuilding.org. it is a forum with a bunch of sponsors on the left hand side of the screen. Find one that's close to you. I use fishsticks4u.com because they're close. They have great products and customer service. Eric

mmmm....upperhand scents........

I was just on Bob's site and saw that he has a new 4" craw mold (2 piece) that looks very nice. I was wondering if anybody has the mold yet (it has been a while since I was on his site so I'm not sure how long the mold has been up)? I was wondering if anybody had it and liked it? Also, I wouldn't mind buying a bag of them from someone to try them out before I spend the money on the mold. Thanks, Eric

Do they sink at the rate you want them to sink? If you want them to sink faster or slower I'd adjust the salt level accordingly. If you like the rate of fall I'd adjust the softener. I don't remember how much softener Del has in his formula on his site (I think it's a 4:2:1 ratio between the three - plastic, salt, softener) but I'd try a couple different levels of softener until you get what you're looking for. I personally don't use any softener in my stix but I'm using MF plastic which is much softer than Del's. You may want to make a small batch without any softener and see what you think as well. It makes life easier if you can eliminate additives that you don't need. Eric

I went to the lake last night after work to try a few things with the swimbait. It still isn't running right. I tried putting a tube through it like Del said and it didn't have enough weight to keep it under the surface so I put 1/8 oz of lead in the bottom of the swimbait (centered at the head of the bait). This gave it enough weight but it wanted to spin again. So, how much weight should I be using for this size swimbait? I currently put salt in the plastic and use 1/8 oz (jig head or lead inside bait). This is what I usually use for smaller, more aerodynamic swimbaits. Should I be using more weight or should I try to alter the design to get it to swim properly??? Thanks, Eric

FF, I'll have to look when I get home. Eric