bubbah rubbah

I had this problem and switched to the white doll eyes with the rattling pupil- they work great. its not the glue you use, its the glue Witchcraft uses... it just falls apart after a while.

has anyone here tried alumilite's 2 part hard plastic for molds? If so does the plastic take the heat? I pour big saltwater baits and my molds heat up in 2 pours to the point that you cant touch them without gloves. thanks, bubbah

do a search here.. plenty of info

I keep my presto pot on a tabletop drill press. If i use tall molds, i crank up the table.. low molds, the table gets cranked down.. very simple, I dont use salt so i dont have a stirring device in there, but If i did i would make a few at different lengths and remember which ones work with each mold.

check out Felmlee eels.

I didnt want to hijack Dels thread, but i have 2 prety successful lure bodies that i wouldnt mind subbing out to someone to make for me which will free my time up to market them more. Do any of you guys know of a company in the states that will make baits for guys like us? My baits are simple, no salt and one color large salt water baits.. 10 and 14 inch stick baits mostly thanks

I get about 30, maybe 45 but i am making 10 inchers with no salt

motor oil and crisco works as a good release as well

check out the alumilite website. they have a crystal clear resin.

when heating i set my microwave to 80% power and go about 20% longer.... Since doing that, I never have yellow problems.

weigh a gallon of plastic, make worms for one hour at a normal clip. weigh your worms.. do the math to figure out what the rubber costs per worm and then add what you want charge per hour for your time. Also you can make a pretty cool game of challenging yourself to keep track of your hourly production rates and push yourself to make more pieces per hour then your think your capable of. I just built one of the presto pot pourers and boosted my output by quite a bit. obviosly you make more $$ if you can make more baits per hour.

Ive modified a few Do-IT molds to accept 9/0 and 10/0 hooks and found the best way to do it was to use the router base that comes with a dremel and use the smallest flat headed milling bit that dremel makes- I used a lot of 3 in one oil (thats all i had laying around) and was able to make perfect cuts into the aluminum. This was major surgery as the depth and diameter of my cuts had to be perfect to keep lead from flowing into the eye of my jig hooks, so a vent hole would be a piece of cake if you did it this way you will have about 1/8th of the control if you use a cutting disk.

hey saint, ive been pouring for a while, i just havnet posted on this site much and havent used aluminum 2 piece molds before.. i usually use RTV for open faced molds. Your right though, you cant beat the feeling of accomplishment, be it solving a problem or catching on your own baits..

bubble problem is fixed. like i thought i was waiting too long to top it off and i was sealing the air pocket that formed. thanks for the tips guys-

I was topping it off, but i think i was topping it off too late and sealing in the bubble. These are going to be used for striped bass fishing up in new england and will be rigged onto a jig head. Im trying to emulate an american eel which is one of striped bass' favorite foods.