rofish

Diemai, I also make inline spinners. One type of body I make, is wrapped wire around cylindrical lead, with one end in which the diameter goes smaller and smaller. I made hundreds of them, if not more than a thousand. Although it is soft wire I use, I have a little experience with such things. I also had to bend wire around needles sometimes. Here is the way I did the joint I was talking about. I used brass wire, which I wrapped around a sewing needle with the diameter of 1.2 mm (0.047") I made 2 of them, equal length, and sanded the ends: Then wrapped thin copper wire around them. I put a needle in each of them, to see if they are parallel. They were: Then I soldiered them. I had to use a drill bit to make the holes again, Since I did not have a 1.2 mm drill bit, I used a 1.5 mm, so I enlarged the holes: Then I made another joint, but this time, instead of brass wire, I used steel wire, 0.5 mm (0.020"). In case brass is not strong enough for the wear of the joint, one could use tempered steel wire: But I also had another idea. I bought some small cloths pins, and used the spring to make the joint: Both types of joints work very well, and I can see no reason why they could not be a perfect choice for a swimbait. It seems that you would need to make it from halves, but it is not so. You can leave longer pieces of wire, twist them, just the way you would make a twisted wire, and then cut off the ends (including the eylet at both ends of the wire).

Diemai, Thanks for the picture. When I saw it, I knew how I would make such a joint, because like you, I also wrapped wire around a sewing needle before. But for such a small diameter, you cannot use strong wire, you have to use soft wire like brass or copper. Harder wire might also work. I know how I would make such a joint. First, I would wrap brass wire around a sewing needle to the desired length, and I will make 2 of them, with the same length. Then I would wrap them together with thin copper wire, then I would soldier everything. Now I would have 2 small metal tubes welded together, and I would pass a wire through each tube, bend them and then the wires go into the body, one to each segment you want to joint.

Diemai, I, for one, do not have anything against those cracks, in terms of artistry, and I am sure the fish would not even notice them. I even think they are cute. What I would be worried about, is that those cracks could "work" the lure after you clearcoat it. Things are different if you intend to sell that lure. The possible buyer could have a strong argument in negociating the price. But as we are eager to see the final result, what would you chose as your next step in the building process?

Diemai, I have received an e-mail from TU with your previous post here. Your last phrase is about a German site where we could see a different type of hinges. But that phrase did not show up in the thread. That's more than strange. Anyway, I followed up the german link and I could not open it. It says the picture can be seen by registered users only. Can you copy the picture and then show it to us? Even if this would mean a lost time for you in finishing your swimbait?

Diemai, I wish you more than that. I wish you good luck

Forgot to say something. DSV, I recommend that before glueing everything with Devcon 2T, you dry the segments. Diemai, For through wire crankbaits, I use the toothpick method to stick together the 2 parts for the shaping and sanding process. But I don't use screws to keep the 2 halves together after glueing. I just wrap the lure all around with non slippery string.

DSV, To me, the action of your lure is very good. I am sure that it will perform better in a lake or river. I think Diemai is right. More weight could result in a better action. But first, you have to test your lure in a larger surface of water. Indeed, when mentionind wear and tear of the bead chain, I was thinking of the wear of the wire against the bead. But you made me thinking, and I came up with an idea: what if one would use swivels as joints? Which could be extended into the body using twisted wire, same way you made those T shaped wires? This is just an example. They have a large selection here, I was amazed to see the choices you have. I am happy if I can find 2 or 3 types of China made swivels. They even have chain beads, and taking into consideration their prices, I think these must be very strong. Turn on the pages to see them all: Cabela's -- Search Simple Product

Pizza, I don't know how big those coins are, but you surely don't know how big my hand is

DSV, One can find out if his ideas will work only with the help of practise. The thread you started is a proof to that. There are some good ideas which you showed to us. Like Diemai, I like those T-shaped twisted wires. By using such wires, you win space in the segments, and you definately need space especially with a smaller swimbait. You do not have to worry about the durability of those beads inside the lure. Mark Poulson is perfectly right, those beads will never pull out in case you use Devcon 2T to glue the halves together. I even think that you do not need to use the whole length of the chain in the middle section. 3 beads on each side will be more than enough to permanently glue the halves with Devcon 2T. This way you would be able to use the unnecessary weight at the top of the lure to the bottom of it, for a better stability. But I would be worried indeed with another aspect. When you mentioned the durabilitiy of the chain, I thought at first that you refer to the chain itself, not to the possibility that it pulls out of the slot. That chain, even if made of SS material, will fail after a period of time, due to the wear and tear. I think that 2 interlocked twisted wires have a much longer life span than such a chain. Are you going to leave 2 beads outside the body in a line between 2 segments? I think this is not necessary, one bead will be enough. The good thing about such a chain is that it allows the segments to move much easier than 2 interlocked wires. So I think that a bead chain is better or worse than other linking systems, depending on what you have in view. But you have to think positive: think that a big fish will steal that lure from you, before the segments will start falling apart:)

Being a little pregnant would also mean that the respective person would give a little bit of birth? To me, things are clearer now. What we have to learn out of this thread, thanks to Mark, is that 2ton epoxy is reliable for crank makers while 5 min. Devcon (and I assume it goes for other brands of 5 min. epoxy as well) might be good, or might be not. 5 min. Devcon will fail over time, if immersed in water. But for how long? Days, months, years? And do you keep your lures immersed for days when you go fishing? After a fishing day, they have the chance to dry. I think it would be interesting to find out if the specs for the 2 ton epoxy will change in the official site of the producer, after Mark has shown them a confusing aspect.

Mark & Sonny, Thanks. I'm smarter now.

What I wanted to say is that I started with through wire construction, then I changed to twisted wire eylets, then I made some with the through wire construction again. I find this one to be easier to accomplish than a through wire construction, because if the wood you are using is not balsa, you have to make grooves in the wood for the wire, so that the 2 halves meet in every point of their surface, and that's a tedious thing to do. V-man, 0.032" = 0.8128 mm x 2 = 1.6256 mm I use about the same wire. I thought I would need to drill holes with the diameter of roughly double the diameter of the wire. At first I used 2 mm drill bits, and now I use 1.9 mm. The twisted wire must be straight. I think 3 mm holes is too much for that wire. And by the way: we are all trainees here, aren't we?

V-man, have you been married to a train?

Mark, You know what the real problem is? The real problem is that in this case the English language has way too many (2) of expressing the same thing (at least this is my guess). In my mother's language, there is only one way to express such a thing. So no one argues about the meaning of the 2!

Mark, I am sorry that I might be the messenger of an unwanted news for you, but I think you have to know what the producer of Devcon 2 ton is telling us about the product being water proof or water resistant: ITW Devcon | Two of the most recognized brands in all of industry; Devcon® and Permatex®.

Mark, To glue in the lips I used 5 min. Devcon, then a Chinese made epoxy, then a transparent 10 min. epoxy in squeeze tubes, which is made in Uruguay:lol: I wonder which one is the best. Sonny, From some thousands miles away, I cannot guess what kind of reliable glue you have used for the eyelets. So do tell me.

Mark, I think you really want to scare me (don't believe that). You mentioned this problem before, in another thread. The last thing I do to a crankbait is to glue in the lip using 5 min. epoxy. Now do I have to believe that all the lips of my crankbaits are going to fall off eventually? Or perhaps you used the 5 min. epoxy not when it was very fluid, but at the moment it began to harden?

Diemai, The tape technique you use can surely do the job it is meant for - determine the weight and placement of the ballast. But it may have a downside, as you mentioned - trapped air, which might alter tha data. Instead of the tape, some use a needle (sewing needle or office pin) on which the lead is placed. You press the needle into the belly, and see the action of the lure in the bath tub. If not satisfied, you change the position of the needle. But now I use a different technique. I have (and use) cylindrical lead, with the diameter of 4.5 mm, which I poor myself. Cut ou pieces of different lengths (and weights), see which one is the best for a certain lure, then I glue the lead cylinder to the belly. This way, I can test the lure at the neaby river. I take the superglue with me, and if not satisfied with the action, I can easily change the position of the lead. At this stage, the lure is sealed, including the lip slot, so I can also try several lips. I do this only for prototypes. But I choose the lip this way for every lure.