rofish
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Everything posted by rofish
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Let's think. Could air bubbles, supposedly coming out of the wood, penetrate a cured layer of epoxy, after breaking the sealer and the paint, and finally coming to a hault in the clearcoat ? My answer is noooo.... But I woud aggree with sagacious's answer.
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I think the rule in finishing a crankbait is that every layer you apply on the lure must be completely cured before adding another layer, wether this is sealer, paint or clearcoat. Exception: a second coat of epoxy can be applied before the first one is completely cured. I start this process of drying begining with the blanks, so I dry very well the wood before applying a sealer. In such a case, I do not have to worry about the possibility of air bubbles escaping from the wood, and showing in the clearcoat (and that's because I heat the blanks before applying the sealer). There are several ways to dry the lure after each layer you apply on it. If you are not in a hurry, you can use what you have in the house, without making an extra drying device. In winter, I use a heater in the house to dry the lure after each layer (after about half an hour in which the lure is hanged on an S wire) even though my wife is not very happy about it. Slower drying is better than a quick one, with the help of a higher temperature. My oppinion is that in case you put the lures overnight on a heater, you do not need a heatbox, but if you do not have a heater (in case your heating system has heating pipes in the floor, for instance), you would need such a heatbox, which you should use after a reasonable time in which the lure hangs at room temperature.
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I use toothpicks or small rolls which I make out of toilet paper () to clean the epoxy out of the eyes immediately after brushing the epoxy on the lure. I will let you know a secret, on condition you do not tell others about it: epoxy can be removed much easier while it has not started to cure.
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Here are the sanding tools I use. Sanding paper glued on plywood or tubes. You can smooth very well a surface with such a tool:
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I think the onion skin paper would be the best for the job, if you want transparency. I use a thin packing paper, both inkjet and laser printer can print well on this paper, which is very similar to the onion skin paper which was used in the past. Also, note that not every type of topcoat will make the paper become transparent.
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Diemai, I know about that option. In any of the e-mail notifications I get frof TU, there is an option about not receiving notifications anymore. But I want to receive such notifications, even though some of them are late by as much as one week or so.
If someone wants to introduce himself, he can use a thread in the "All aboard" section of the forum. In the hardbaits forum, there were 2 threads in the past in which each one could introduce himself. I do not remember anymore what would be the key words to make a search for those 2 threads.
Regards,
Rofish
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Diemai,
I receive enough mails in my e-mail address (at yahoo) which are automatically directed into the bulk folder. If this has something to do with my account at photobucket or not, I do not know. I guess not. The only thing I have to do when I do not want to read an e-mail from someone that I do not know anything about, is to delete it. I do not know why, but the notifications from TU that someone has replied to a thread I have suscribed to, also appear in the bulk folder.
Here in Romania the fishing is closed now for 2 months (April 14th-June 12th). The only kind of fish you are alowed to fish for is pike now, but only with lures, so not with a real fish. At least in Romania, the pike spawns at the end of February and begining of March.
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Diemai,
I am sorry to tell you that I do not know much about computers as well. I could not post pictures in the forum because I did not know how. That was until Hazmail has learned out how to do it and he also opened that thread in which he explains to the others how to post such pictures.
I followed the steps he showed in his thread, and I was surprised that it worked. I remember that I could find a simpler way to do it. If I remember well, he said he selects the second option of link (he makes it blue) out of the 3 which each picture in the photobucket has below it. Instead of that, I simply clicked on the second link (I do not remember if I clicked once or twice) and a window appeared saying that the link was copied. I then went to the post I was writing, and I could paste the link, and then the photo appeared in the thread.
What Hazmail does not seem to know, is that the maximum width of the photo should be 640 pixels, otherwise the width of the thread itself increases, and you cannot read a whole line of text unless you use the arrows on the bottom of the page. It is very unpleasent to read such a text in which you have to use the arrow to read the whole line to the right, and when you finish, you must use the other arrow,to the left, to be able to read the begining of the next line of text.
To resize the picture to the size I want, I use Adobe Photoshop software. I use alot this software, even though I think I can use only about 20-30% of its possibilities, and that's because I make crankbaits using the printing foil technique.
About the spam mails, I can tell you that I have received none in more than a year now, since I have opened up an account with photobucket, com. I do not know anything about "fake e-mail address".
Here are some of the crankbaits I made, and I posted on photobucket.com almost 2 years ago. Since then, I did not post any of my new ones:
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I hope you will not forget to post some pictures from the gathering.
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Diemai, I'll be honest with you, and I will tell you that I have an interest to see more of your lures, because I think you have lots of imagination in designing lures. Here are some things for you to read: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/11292-uploading-multiple-pictures.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/site-usage-instruction/5183-inserting-photos-into-forum-posts.html
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DSV, what do you mean by "yes, yes and yes" ? Do we have to understand that the person in the picture is the one who made that lure? It is hard for me to believe that!
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Palmetto, what do you mean by E-word? Let me guess. I think you have in view an e-mail?
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Don't know, Mark. Too many questions indeed. I have seriously used my head to produce that basic idea, so I do not have any resources anymore. Someone might continue with the practical tests. Maybe Rookie?
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Vman, I can guarantee that 5 rpm works well, and that 15 rpm works also well. I assume every speed in between would also work well. But these 2 limits refer to the wheel I have, made out of 2 CDs. The bigger the wheel, the higher the peripherical speed will be, and so the higher chanses for you to epoxy the ceiling. I think a smaller wheel is better than a big one, because it can rotate the lures at a higher speed (as needed to rotate continuously the position of the lure, on a tail to head axis) but you can eliminate the risk of epoxy wanting to jump to the ceiling.
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Rookie, it seems to me that your idea is not going to work. I have a solution to the problem above, in case you promise we share the winings ... Done? OK, gentlemen's agreement then. You paint your lures with water based paints, than you wrap the lure in clear adhesive tape. Bright, isn't it? ()
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I think 1 rpm is less than needed (to be on the safe side), not only with thinned epoxy, but with unthinned one as well, in case you apply too much epoxy on the lure. I use a microwave motor, with 5 rpm, but I also used a microwave motor with 15 rpm (that one is dead now), and had no problems at all with such a "high" speed. I remember that some people use a cordless drill to rotate lures, at 60 rpm or more. No problems reported yet.
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First time in my life that I see rubber brushes, but I would not trust them to apply epoxy with. I use cheap brushes, which I clean with thinner, (very little at a time) and I think that I can clean the brush perfectly each time. The only thing which stops me using the same brush over a year or more, is that many times I simply forget to clean it, being too busy with rotating the lures, heating the topcoat to get the bubbles out, etc. I wanted to approximate the cost of using such a brush just once, compared to the cost of the thinner I use, but I could not find the time for such a calculation. Someone said that a cheap brush can be improved, so as to not leave bristles in your work, by clamping with pliers (or in a small vise) at the base of the bristles. It works for me.
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Mark, your answer helped me alot. The stock I intend to cut is 2 inch thick, and I think even the smallest bandsaw can fit such thickness of wood under the upper guide. As I have a scroll saw, I know that in order to make the blade cut on a desired line, you do not have to push hard the wood into the blade, but just let the blade work as it "likes" to work. So a wider blade is better for the job of cutting straight. That was my guess, but now I have the confirmation. I want to buy a small bandsaw, because I intend to use it to cut out lures, as my scroll saw is very lazy. And I also want such a small bandsaw to cut through 2 inch stock, in a straight line. Thanks
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I have a question about bandsaws. Can a small bansaw cut straight pieces of wood? Say, I have a piece of wood, 2 inch thick, and I want to cut out straight stripes of wood, which will have the thickness I need for the crankbaits? The hardest wood I will use will be basswood. I know that a table saw would be better to this end, but I cannot have both, so I have to choose one. For the moment, the only type of bandsaw I can find in my town is an Einhell brand, (and it costs about $165) so I may try to buy a bandsaw in another country. I have a scroll saw, but I have never worked with a bandsaw. I think every small bandsaw comes with a fence, so it should cut straight. But I don't know if you could cut straight into a 2 inch piece of wood. Does the blade oscillate? Can the machine be adjusted for this job? Thanks
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Vman, I couldn't agree more. Not to mention that a fish could have a different understanding of physics, compared to beer drinkers (I am not one of them, though). The post above confirms it. So pikeman, how many lures are you going to paint this way? Could you spare one?
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To see drops of water on a crankbait, this is something cool, because it would make me think of a cold bottle of beer, 15 min. after you have taken it out from the refrigerator, in summer time .... But I am curious to know what would a fish think of some drops of water, swimming through the water?
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I also make lures just for myself and friends. The necessary coats for sealing depend on how thick the sealer is. I dip twice or tree times the lures taken out from the oven (almost hot), then another 4 coats, this time at room temperature. But if you use a stronger material, such as thinned Devcon 2 ton, I think that just one layer would be enough for the sealing.
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Mark, do you use that Minwax stuff to dip your lures in? If so, you will not have the temperature problems that you mentioned, because the lure will start cooling the moment you dip the lure in. Depending on how thick the Minwax is, the lure will suck in the stuff more or less. The problem is how do you cure this sealer if it goes into the wood, so not merely on the surface of the lure. Heat does this for the propionate solution. But for the that Minwax stuff I don't know. The whole idea here is to seal the wood while it is warm. But when after the first dip into a thin solution I also heat the lure so that the "inside" solution will cure, I know that I may have not sealed the wood properly, so after cooling, it may suck in air again. That is why I seal this way the wood twice or even three times.
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Mark, I do heat the blanks in the oven before sealing them in propionate solution. But I also put them back in the oven after the surface has completely dried (15 - 20 min). You can see blisters of propionate solution or even small springs of solution coming out of the lure. If I would not do so, I think I would just replace the air with solvent based sealer, and since the inside solution cannot dry, because the surface is sealed with dried solution, the only way to dry this inside solution is heat. I am aware of the danger of an explosion, so I do not recommend heating the lures the way I do.
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Charles, Being on the other side of the world, I do not know anything about the materials you are talking about - sealer, paint, epoxy. But physics is the same everywhere. First, your lures are made out of paulownia wood, which, being so light, has much more air trapped into the wood. This air will expand because of the heat, pressing on whatever will block its way out. A solution to this problem would be that you use denser wood. If you still want to use paulownia wood, and want your lures to withstand higher temperatures, then a good idea would be that you heat the blank of the lure before applying the sealer. This way, you seal the lure with thinned air in the wood, so the difference in air pressure will be less if you put the lure in high temperature. Depending on the sealer, you could heat the blank before applying the second layer of sealer as well (and even before the third one). You do not have to worry if you fish such lures in cold water,because in this case the air inside the wood shrinks, but it cannot suck the paint or epoxy inside the lure, because all these layers lean on the wood, which is strong.