rofish

Seems it does not work

Trying to upload a picture in word format:

Do you always have to upload such multiple pictures from a URL, or is there a simpler way to do it? Is there any possibility that you browse your computer and upload pictures from it? I can transform a JPEG picture into a picture in word format. Can you make your text as a word document, inserting word format pictures in it, then upload everything? Will the pictures appear?

If you are crazy, someone will take you to a hospital. If you are half crazy, you may become a valuable TU member. That is why I like so much this site. Merry Christmas to al TU members!

I'm afraid I cannot answer your question. I, for one, use Adobe photoshop to play around with fish photos. If this technique of photo printing would replace your aibrush or not, that I cannot answer as well, because this is a matter of personal preference. I even don't have an airbrush, to be able to compare the 2 ways of doing things.

http://fish.mongabay.com/fish.htm http://www.fishbase.org/search.php http://www.americanfishes.com/index.htm

HAWGHUNNA, Yes, I drill the holes and glue the twisted wires, using epoxy putty, 2 components, instead of epoxy. Usually I drill out holes, including the lead one, and cut the lip slot while the lure is "square", then shape, glue the twisted wires and seal. But for a new shape of lure, I determine the position of the ballast as in the picture, so I make the lead hole after I see where I want it to be placed.

HAWGHUNNA and kbkindle, The red lines represent where and how long the twisted wires go into the body. I needed to know this, because I didn't want to drill a hole for the led cylinder where the hole could meet a wire. To make the markings, I put the drill bit into each hole (about 2/3 of it remained outside the body), then with a pen I traced the line of the drill bit on the wood. (eye ball, but quite accurate). Then, using a wire or a smaller diameter drill bit, I measured the depth of the holes and then mark the depths on the outside lines. For the relatively small crankbaits that I make, there is a limited room for the hardware, so for the angle and depth of the holes, there is not much choice. But I have the choice of where to place the lead, and this would result in different actions of the lure. If the belly hanger also has the weight, there is not much choice of where to place it, to see how the action is affected.

After reading this thread, an ideea came out of my head. It took me about 6-7 minutes to make the jig in the pictures. I used things which I had in the house. Ordinary metal sheet, screws, drilling machine. The result is satisfactory, the lure is clamped pretty good in this jig, but it can surely be improved. By using steel metal sheet, or by doubling the metal band at the end, or by using a special nut or screw instead of the small usual screw, the kind which you operate by your fingers, not by using a screwdriver or wrench. (could it be called butterfly nut or screw?) The long screw (which is 4 mm in diameter) could stay in a nut which, in turn, could be fixed on a drying weel, or something else.

Wait until you upgrade to the best part of your life

Hope you can see the photo.

I manage weighting the same way pikeman does (we talk together), but in a slightly different way. I glue the weight under the belly using superglue. The crankbait is sealed, including the wood inside the lipslot, the lip is pressed into the lipslot (not glued, so I can try different lip shapes and sizes). First I try the crankbait in a water pot, to see how much weight it needs. Then I do the testing of the action not in a tub, as pikeman does (unlike me, he is not married), but at the local river. The crankbait in the photo is shown as I tested it at the river. It has a tight wobble, and goes very deep. If I change the lip to a shorter one, it would not go as deep, but the action is the same.

It is quite difficult for me to explain that, but I will try. First, I cut the CD into 4,5 or 6 pieces. I take one piece, bend it in every possible way, until I see that in some places the thin metal sheet is no more glued to the CD. I put the blade of an x-acto knife under the metal sheet, press it with a finger, and remove that piece of metal sheet, little by little, and pressing the cutting edge of the blade to the line where the metal sheet meets the CD. The metal sheet would brake not where you would want to (as big a piece as possible), but it would become narrower an narrower. With some experience, you could "tell" the metal sheet where it should brake. Repeat this process until you remove the whole metal sheet. If, by mistake, you drop the metal sheet back to the CD, it would glue to the CD as if it would be magnetized, making you angry with that piece of metal sheet (or me ? )

I have used CD material for lips. I became an expert in removing the thin metal sheet that covers one side of the CD. Some info I read says that CDs are made out of polycarbonate. I was glad to hear that, so I tried the material. My advice: forget about CDs as lip material. They brake easily.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9494&highlight=sign+lures

The romanian word for crankbait is "vobler", which I knew it came from the German language. Trying to see if I was right, I went to some on line dictionaries, but I could not find the word. I had the ideea of doing a search on the german ebay, and look what I found for the word "wobbler": http://sport.search.ebay.de/wobbler_Angelsport_W0QQ_trksidZm37QQcatrefZC12QQfromZR40QQsacatZ1492 I also went to Wikipedia, and found out that "wobbler" is a synonim for "crankbait", (depending on the country and region) But what is interesting there, is the fact that they say that crankbaits "swim with a side-to-side wobbling movement". Do you think it is possible that the original german word "wobbler" or "wobble" came into English language, and after a while it took the "waggle" form? If you say it is a crazy ideea, I would understand. Here is the link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plug_%28fishing%29

Vodkaman, very impressive. I will always find something to learn from you. I am also very interested to find out ways to determine the desirable action of a lure, as I think the lure's action is the most important factor in triggering the attack of the fish. Nevertheless, I think I do not entirely agree with you on the subject. For instance, I think you left out 2 of the most important factors in a lure's action, which are lip shape and lip angle. The distance between tow point and lip is also important. Perhaps you remember that I discovered some lip shapes that change almost completely the action of a certain lure. What I discovered since, is that the same lip shape can determine different actions on different shapes of lures. I can never tell what action a certain lip shape will have on a new shape of lure. I just hope that one day I will be able to guess that. One thing which I think should be outlined is that the factors you have in view, may act in a different way in the case of lures with the tow point on the lip, compared to the classical crankbaits, with lips below the tow point. In the first case, the tow point pulls part of the lip and the body, while in the second case the tow point pulls the body and the lip. I think theese are 2 different situations. One other thing which I would like to discuss is your ideea about ballast distribution. You say that a split ballast will result in a tighter waggle. I don't know what "waggle" is, I assume it is a synonim for "wobble" (lateral movement). Your explanation takes into consideration the lever principle. You say that the longer the distance of the ballast from the gravity center, the harder it is to move, which is correct. But once moved, the ballast is also harder to stop, due to the same leverage principle. You say it is very hard to push a boat to make it move, but I think it is even harder to stop it. As to the lip width, I can tell you that one of my minnows has a round lip, so the width is larger than the usual lip shapes, and it still has a tight wobble. So I think if you make wider lips, this will not necessarily result in a wider action. Anyway, I am not completely sure about that, I still have to experiment.

LP, I hope that you do not misunderstand me. I would never be able to build up a business out of such activity. So I am happy if I can catch a fish with one of my lures. But I do envy you for your science. Back to the thread itself, it seems that the majority has decided: focus on the action, if you want to catch fish.

LP, Then what is your science used for? I think that if I had 25% of your knowledge in making lures, I would become rich

LaPala, why don't you speak out what you think, as a lure maker who sells them? Lure in the water longer = more probability of loosing it, driving the angler crazy about buying same lure again?

Once I hooked a fish (also lost it) when it was very late in the evening, it was dark already, I could barely see the profiles of the trees above me over the black sky. Could that fish see anything of the crankbait in the water, since I could barely see above it? Action is the most important of all.

I think there is some misunderstanding here, at least from my part. See what they sell here. Click on the Eclipse series and the High performance fized nozzles: http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Airbrush_Main.html

Or, you can use nothing (which is cheaper) if the lip is the last thing you add to the crankbait, before installing split rings and hooks.

Just asking. I do not have an airbrush, so I don't know much about them. But a diameter of, let's say, .05 mm means 5 hundreds of a milimeter, which is very, very small. Could it be 0.5 mm you are talking about?

Nathan, Do you know what? I am stupid enough to confuse feet with yards. When I talked about feet, I had yards in mind. But I didn't know the trick you are talking about. Cannot figure out how it works, but I got the ideea. So thanks.