rofish
-
Posts
564 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by rofish
-
What may look ugly for us, may also appear most tasteful for a fish. Rule of the thumb: do not judge feeding preferences of a fish through a human eye
-
A freshly finished old one. This one has a very interesting action. It would go to one side, then come back to the middle, then go to the other side. I think this action is due to a slight fault in bending the lip. The fault isn't visible, but I think it is there. In such a 2 steps lip, your chances to make a not so perfect lip are higher. And there are several planes in the lip, each offering a different resistance to water. If I would want to duplicate the action of this one, I am sure I couldn't. -
Finally managed to finish it after about a year. Put it aside, and now just finalized it. -
At least, it was a trout before I modified it. Not sure what kind of fish it is now -
Very impressive. Are they really hand carved? They look all perfect to me. Must be quite difficult to tune them. What action do they have? I love the shape and might try it for myself. -
I have 2 molds for pouring lead, 1 diameter for each, which were made out of brass, long ago, by a friend, on a lathe. They work perfectly after more than 25 years of use. But the methods described above by RG and Vman work also good. But I have to add something. I think it is better that first you drill a very small hole through (maximum 1 mm drill bit), so that the air in the hole could be pushed down and out through the tiny hole. Otherwise, there is the risk that the lead would splash while pouring it. The metal mold will not work properly until it reaches a certain temperature. If cold, the lead would become hard instantly, before it would fill the whole hole. If your option would be wood, choose a hard one. Instead of steel, you could use aluminium, brass, copper, etc. When you have your cylindrical lead, you can cut it with an exacto knife, or similar, to the length (and weight) you need. And do not forget to wear safety glasses when you pour lead.
-
Rookie, All lips are different. The lure at the top has a slightly bent lip. I choose a lip for each lure, on the bank of the water, so I have many lips with me. If the lip does not stay fit in the lip slot, I add some extra material under the lip (small, thin pieces of plastic). The lure in the middle does not have a very different action. What is really different is the extra drag you feel when retrieving the lure. You need some extra muscles to retrieve it at high speed. I do not know if the extra drag could create some extra vibrations in the water, which, in turn, could be more enticing for the fish. But I hope so. Fishwhittler, What you see is a double line tie made out of a single piece of wire. You need to use hard wire for such a twisted wire, because otherwise the eyes could bend, causing the lure to loose it -
I simply cannot imagine how you could top the detail and color shades of this one, especially for the head and gils -
If it's groomy, it's Rookie ('s). And 10+, as usual. -
It changes colors as it grows. I may have a wrong understanding about how a kill spot should look like ,,,
-
Vman, I'm not sure I have fully understood the making process, due to my poor English. But I will tell you this: if you had a second vice, identical to the first, you could clamp the end of the short wire at the edge of the second one, and the winding of the long wire around the short one would be much easier. Also, you have to think of a way to pull a little bit the end of the short wire when you clamp it in the second vice, because if the wire does not move much, the winding of the long wire is easier. On the other hand, maybe buying a second vice to do this is not worth the financial effort.
-
Very nice colors indeed... But the colors look upside down as well ... Never mind, if the weight is in proper place, I would be eager to find out if predatory fish like these colors... -
Yes, amazing work, but we all expect no less from you. About those magnets ... Do they have enough force to keep the hooks pressed to the lure after the lure hits the water? Or do they just go nicely to their designed place once you start to retrieve the lure? -
I knew the depth a lure can reach will depend on many factors, sorry I forgot to mention that. I was interested in the tow eye location only. Thanks. -
Mr. J., What if you drill a hole of a necessary diameter in your blank before turning it, then you fill the hole with a dowel made of the same wood, so as the dowel stays fit into the hole, then cut off the ends of the dowel, then work the lure as you need, and, when finished, just hammer out the dowel and you have the hole for the rattle? I have not done it yet, this is just my I guess the dowel must fit snugly, otherwise it might come out while turning the blaqnk. Not a specialist, so maybe Mark Poulson and others may have an oppinion on it.
-
Your airbrush skills are very good and the color mix you have chosen is very nice as well. But I have something else to point out. As I understand, this is an original lure. The tow point is situated more towards the tip of the lip, than towards the body of the lure. The general idea on this forum is that in order to achieve a deep diving lure, the tow point should be situated at about 1/3
-
I think any predatory fish would like to taste your project. -
Really great idea. But I'm still trying to understand how it works. You say it is the shaking of the head that makes the fins click. I am more inclined to say that because the head moves to one side, the fin on the other side would be more exposed to water flow, which will of course push the fin to the other side. I would say that it is the water which makes the fins click, and the water can do this because the head moves left and right. This is a nice piece of engeneering, and I'm sure it wasn't easy to make. How did you make the fin? Was it bent around a nail in the middle of it? I think another way to do it is to glue a small diameter metal tube at the middle of the fin. Excellent work. -
Follow Diemai's ideas and you will get the results you want. In short: - first thing to try is to add more weight. This shoud solve the problem - it seems to me that the angle of the lip is more than 15 degrees, but this angle should be OK. If you try to lessen the angle, it will be more difficult to tune the lure. It may become unstable, especially when trolling (higher speed) - a longer lip could add diving depth, but the longer the lip is, the more difficult to make the lure run true. Try small steps in growing the lip length
-
I can see that Pete's lures are very well done, so it's no wonder that he may be a source of inspiration for someone. I know it would be impossible for me to make as good lures as he does, but at least I can try the shape he uses almost exclusively. Must be a reason for that, I think. -
Rookie ... I'm perfectly aware of that ... But if I can get any close with my work to the one of a sacred luremaker, I will be happy ... Besides, this lure shape wouldn't give me peace before I tried it... -
Yes, great idea. But it doesn't seem to me that you have mentioned anything about the metal plates being loose, and thus creating a sound. In fact, I was just about to ask you if you have used rivets, screws or anything else (epoxy?) to put the metal sheets together. Mark has put forward some ideas to make the lure more snag free. Here's another. What if you would make the middle sheet shorter by a few mm, then introduce there the eye of the hook, then fix the hook to the lure by a rivet or a screw? Problem is that you will need to find a hook with the eye turned around by 90 degrees, so that the point of the hook would point upwards. I very much like these lures -
... with a bit of a different personality (or drawback?) 62 mm long, light wood, photofinish (played around with Photoshop). They are very stable in action. But there's something I cannot understand. I tried many lip shapes before choosing the ones you see, the distance between the lip and the tow point is different (at least to one of them), 2 of them have the weight in front of the belly hanger and the third has it after the belly hook hanger. But nevertheless they all behave the same in water, which is a very large and quick action, giving me the impression of a snake on the run. I wonder if this is the way they should behave? I made the angle of a lipslot as I usually do in my crankbaits, and only after did I realize that because of the shape (head bent a little downwards) the angle of the lip would be larger as against the surface of the water. Trying to correct this, 2 of them have a lip bent upwards, but it was in vain, all 3 of them would have a very large "wobble". But I know what I will be using this shape for: I will attach bb rattles towards the head or tail. They should work perfectly
-
... with a bit of a different personality (or drawback?) 62 mm long, light wood, photofinish (played around with Photoshop). They are very stable in action. But there's something I cannot understand. I tried many lip shapes before choosing the ones you see, the distance between the lip and the tow point is different (at least to one of them), 2 of them have the weight in front of the belly hanger and the third has it after the belly hook hanger. But nevertheless they all behave the same in water, which is a very large and quick action, giving me the impression of a snake on the run. I wonder if this is the way they should behave? I made the angle of a lipslot as I usually do in my crankbaits, and only after did I realize that because of the shape (head bent a little downwards) the angle of the lip would be larger as against the surface of the water. Trying to correct this, 2 of them have a lip bent upwards, but it was in vain, all 3 of them would have a very large "wobble". But I know what I will be using this shape for: I will attach bb rattles towards the head or tail. They should work perfectly -
... with a bit of a different personality (or drawback?) 62 mm long, light wood, photofinish (played around with Photoshop). They are very stable in action. But there's something I cannot understand. I tried many lip shapes before choosing the ones you see, the distance between the lip and the tow point is different (at least to one of them), 2 of them have the weight in front of the belly hanger and the third has it after the belly hook hanger. But nevertheless they all behave the same in water, which is a very large and quick action, giving me the impression of a snake on the run. I wonder if this is the way they should behave? I made the angle of a lipslot as I usually do in my crankbaits, and only after did I realize that because of the shape (head bent a little downwards) the angle of the lip would be larger as against the surface of the water. Trying to correct this, 2 of them have a lip bent upwards, but it was in vain, all 3 of them would have a very large "wobble". But I know what I will be using this shape for: I will attach bb rattles towards the head or tail. They should work perfectly