rofish
TU Member-
Posts
564 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by rofish
-
A way to put a bb rattle in a 68 mm long minnow. I wrapped the rattle twice with soft wire, then twisted the wire just like a hook hanger, only that the twisted wire is very short, 4-5 mm long. After drilling the hole, I cut off the blank about half the place where the rattle would stay, and then I epoxied the wire together with the rattle. My idea was to place the rattle as close to the head as possible, because the head (and tail) has the largest action in a crankbait, so that the ball inside would be smashed at the ends of the metal tube. The lure is not unbalanced by the rattle, but I have noticed that it gained some roll as against the same lure without a rattle. I still have to experiment. I guess the fact that the rattle is concealed behind the lip is a good thing, because the water will not flow directly on the rattle. I also will experiment this idea with a rattle at the tail.
-
A way to put a bb rattle in a 68 mm long minnow. I wrapped the rattle twice with soft wire, then twisted the wire just like a hook hanger, only that the twisted wire is very short, 4-5 mm long. After drilling the hole, I cut off the blank about half the place where the rattle would stay, and then I epoxied the wire together with the rattle. My idea was to place the rattle as close to the head as possible, because the head (and tail) has the largest action in a crankbait, so that the ball inside would be smashed at the ends of the metal tube. The lure is not unbalanced by the rattle, but I have noticed that it gained some roll as against the same lure without a rattle. I still have to experiment. I guess the fact that the rattle is concealed behind the lip is a good thing, because the water will not flow directly on the rattle. I also will experiment this idea with a rattle at the tail.
-
A way to put a bb rattle in a 68 mm long minnow. I wrapped the rattle twice with soft wire, then twisted the wire just like a hook hanger, only that the twisted wire is very short, 4-5 mm long. After drilling the hole, I cut off the blank about half the place where the rattle would stay, and then I epoxied the wire together with the rattle. My idea was to place the rattle as close to the head as possible, because the head (and tail) has the largest action in a crankbait, so that the ball inside would be smashed at the ends of the metal tube. The lure is not unbalanced by the rattle, but I have noticed that it gained some roll as against the same lure without a rattle. I still have to experiment. I guess the fact that the rattle is concealed behind the lip is a good thing, because the water will not flow directly on the rattle. I also will experiment this idea with a rattle at the tail.
-
Dieter, Let me explain. I think that in 95% of the crankbaits I make, I use wood with a thickness of 14 mm. The metal tube I use for rattles, has about 6 mm for the inner diameter, and is 8-9 mm long. The steel ball I use is small, just 4 mm in diameter. I found out that if I use a bigger ball, the sound of the rattle is not louder. And I cannot use 2 balls for such a small thickness of wood, because the balls would not have enough room to travel, to gain momentum and smash the metal discs glued at both ends of the tube. Most fishermen try to hear the sound of their crankbaits with a rattle by shaking their crankbaits sideways (moving the whole lure left and right, following parallel positions). The result is that they hear a loud sound, and they are very satisfied. I did this too, in the beginning, after installing a rattle in the middle of the lure. But a crankbait does not act this way in water. Make the following test. Take one of your crankbaits with a rattle, keep it from above, in the middle of the crankbait, using 2 of your left hand fingers, and with your right hand move the nose of the lure left and right, as if the lure would wobble, so this would be an action much more closer to the real action a crankbait has in water. Will you hear the sound anymore? I doubt it. You can change the location of the fingers of your left hand, to see in which case you can hear the rattle the best. I can already tell you that if you keep your crankbait by the tail hook hanger, your rattle will work best. But again, this situation does not happen in water. The "X"-ing point of the lure (where the balancing point is) is situated somewhere in the middle of the lure, so that part of the lure hardly has any action at all in water. So what I try to do, is to place the rattle as close to the nose or tail as possible, so that the steel ball is smashed into the ends of the metal tube every time the lure ends move from left to right or back again. And I think there are many factors to be considered here. The length the ball has to travel, the speed by which the crankbait ends change direction (tight or large wobble), etc. Practically you have to fit the construction of the rattle with the action and size of your lure, and this is a hard thing to achieve. The only feasable method I can think of is trial and error. So do not rely on the roll of your lures to make a rattle work. And the roll alone will not smash the ball. What if you screw up things an make a crankbait without a roll ? Cheers
-
Diemai, All my crankbaits are rounded at the belly area and shoulders. More to the belly area than shoulders. These are quite tall, I think they are the tallest I have made yet, compared to their thickness. As to the rattle at the middle area of the lure, this is just the thing I want to avoid. I have made such lures, but the steel ball does not seem to have any action at all, because the rattle is situated at the place where the lure does not move sideways, or just barely moves. (this is the "X"-ing point of the lure. So the steel ball inside the tube does not have the chance to move left and right, to make the sound. This is exactly the reason why I try to figure out ways to place the rattle where the lure would have the most action, and this means head and tail. I have made another crankbait with the rattle outside the body. Almost ready. After testing, I will upload a picture.
-
Thought I would make a crankbait with a BB rattle at about where the eyes are. I designed a shape which is tall at the head area, to accommodate everything inside. I made 2 identical lures as size and shape, but they differ as construction process. One is a one piece lure, with drilled holes for twisted wires and lead, and the other one is the sandwich type, but not through wired. Using a Dremel type rotary machine, I made grooves for the wires on both parts of the sandwich type. I tried many shapes of lips with these 2 lures, but no one gave any of them a true action. The lures would lean on one side on retrieve, and changing sides from time to time. I tested the lures in pot of water. They lean on one side. If I push the lure on the other side, the steel ball inside would go to the other end of the metal tube, causing the lure to lean on the other side. The angles are equal, so the lures are well balanced, but the steel ball is too high up in the lure. The one with the tow eye at the tip of the nose tends to almost have a good action, but shortly after a good start, will lean on one side. I don
-
Thought I would make a crankbait with a BB rattle at about where the eyes are. I designed a shape which is tall at the head area, to accommodate everything inside. I made 2 identical lures as size and shape, but they differ as construction process. One is a one piece lure, with drilled holes for twisted wires and lead, and the other one is the sandwich type, but not through wired. Using a Dremel type rotary machine, I made grooves for the wires on both parts of the sandwich type. I tried many shapes of lips with these 2 lures, but no one gave any of them a true action. The lures would lean on one side on retrieve, and changing sides from time to time. I tested the lures in pot of water. They lean on one side. If I push the lure on the other side, the steel ball inside would go to the other end of the metal tube, causing the lure to lean on the other side. The angles are equal, so the lures are well balanced, but the steel ball is too high up in the lure. The one with the tow eye at the tip of the nose tends to almost have a good action, but shortly after a good start, will lean on one side. I don
-
Thought I would make a crankbait with a BB rattle at about where the eyes are. I designed a shape which is tall at the head area, to accommodate everything inside. I made 2 identical lures as size and shape, but they differ as construction process. One is a one piece lure, with drilled holes for twisted wires and lead, and the other one is the sandwich type, but not through wired. Using a Dremel type rotary machine, I made grooves for the wires on both parts of the sandwich type. I tried many shapes of lips with these 2 lures, but no one gave any of them a true action. The lures would lean on one side on retrieve, and changing sides from time to time. I tested the lures in pot of water. They lean on one side. If I push the lure on the other side, the steel ball inside would go to the other end of the metal tube, causing the lure to lean on the other side. The angles are equal, so the lures are well balanced, but the steel ball is too high up in the lure. The one with the tow eye at the tip of the nose tends to almost have a good action, but shortly after a good start, will lean on one side. I don
-
-
-
Diemai, you are perfectly right. That fish is a rudd, not a roach. Usually it can be caught on maggots, worms, wheat, etc. It is not a pray fish, but bigger ones do become, in some cases. Both the rudd and the roach belong to the carp family (cyprinidae) I wanted to find out the common name for roach, in German, from the following link, but I gave up. There are so many of them, that I guess you do not know them all yourself. The rudd: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=2951 The roach: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=272
-
I use pacience to avoid such a problem, when working with propionate solution. Thinner (the primer) is better for quicker dripping. To avoid such a problem, keep the lure hanging down from your pliers, and when the paint does not want to drip anymore, and the ring of paint stays there, still wet, gently wipe off the excess on the lower end with some paper towel, paper napkin, or similar. Or just touch the end on the paper. BTW, I use toilet paper:) For multiple dippings, reverse each time the lure by 180 degrees.
-
The lip is red because it is still an experimental one. So Pete doesn't yet know if it makes any difference in fishing. But I'm sure he will post his findings after a while. If my eyes do not cheat me, it seems that the eylets are not made out of wire, isn't it so? They seem to be made out of metal (brass?) sheet.
-
-
I have used both methods. It is practically impossible to use a power drill to twist medium hard wire. This method is good and quick for soft wire only. But again, it happened to me that the wire broke because of overtwisting it. That I can understand. But the wire also broke sometimes as a result of moderate twisting. This I cannot understand. So now I twist the wire by hand, using a drill bit in my left hand, around which the loop is already formed, and a flat nose pliers in my right hand, to twist the wire. It takes a little bit longer than the power drill method, but I think it is safer for the strength of the wire.
-
I have used 0.5 mm (which is about 0.020") hard steel wire in my first through-wired cranks, because I could't find the right diameter in shops. They still work very well. But now I use 0.8 mm SS wire (0.032") for my cranks, (2-3.5 " long) which I think is ideal, both for through wirering and for twisted wire eyes. BobP has another idea about the ideal diameter, and I remember that Diemai uses 1 mm diameter for the wire. So I think you have to choose your ideal diameter as well. Also, I think you have to avoid the extremes (too soft or too hard), so choose something in between.
-
Very interesting idea. Can anyone tell me what type of plastic he uses there? I have never poured plastics, and I do not know what type of plastic could be used for the tail, or how to get it to liquid state. (a metal cup placed in hot water, or a metal cup directly over the fire). Thanks.
-
If you want a sealer that soaks into the wood, the best choice would be the propionate solution. There are tens of threads in this forum about this subject. The epoxy can also be used as a sealer, but it won't penetrate the wood. Anyway, it will adhere very well to wood. But not even propionate solution will penetrate the wood too deep. If you have enough patience to use the search function of this forum, you will have all your questions answered. You say you use ename paints because they are waterproof and do not need a clearcoat on top of them. Well, you need to change your way of thinking, especially if you fish a lure for a week or two, as you said.
-
If you want a sealer that soaks into the wood, the best choice would be the propionate solution. There are tens of threads in this forum about this subject. The epoxy can also be used as a sealer, but it won't penetrate the wood. Anyway, it will adhere very well to wood. But not even propionate solution will penetrate the wood too deep. If you have enough patience to use the search function of this forum, you will have all your questions answered. You say you use ename paints because they are waterproof and do not need a clearcoat on top of them. Well, you need to change your way of thinking, especially if you fish a lure for a week or two, as you said.
-
Check Out The Best Transparent Paint Ever!
rofish replied to MR KNOW IT ALL KIND OF's topic in Hard Baits
If you look closely to the pictures, you will also see Rookie himself, painted all white. Clever desguise. -
Diemai, This is an interesting idea, and I'm sure you will find the best solution to achieve your goal. But pardon me my ignorance. If you intend your spoons to make an appealing noise, and your spoons have the necessary wobble to create a noise, why don't you simply attach a rattle to them? Like the ones you made already, as far as I remember, out of brass tube and BB? The rattles need to be waterproof, and you could simply glue them using epoxy, or you could conceive an attaching system (wire, or something else). I had the idea of gluing a BB rattle under the lip of a crankbait, but haven't tried it yet. Too lazy, I think.
-
-
-
I fully agree to what fatfingers said. Clear ideas, and no way of expressing them better. So this is my humble solution to the problem that there isn't a clearcoat invented yet with all the caractheristics we would want it to have: you have to use 2 types of clearcoats on a lure. For instance, I use one (sometimes 2) layers of thinned epoxy, (brushing, of course), then I apply about 15-20 coats of propionate (because this is what I have) by dipping. The lipslot is there during the process, then I recut it. The propionate is a softer material than epoxy, and it has the role of a cocoon to protect the epoxy, and prevent it from chipping (to some extent, of course). You have many materials which you could pair, to achieve a better clearcoat.
-
Good old threads may provide some answers: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/14538-what-would-you-want-clearcoat.html