Predator Bass Baits

Fresh off the iron,,,, 3 options in stock Silent DRS ( Has just the 2 lead balls in the chambers ) Rattling ( Has 3 lead balls ) one ball in the body.

Ya I miss read that..

Lets see a picture of them fine specimens you paid big bucks for.

I forgot the # of this one, I am trying to find it but this is the one used to make the mold.

If you look at your wiggle warts you can tell the front chamber has the hook hanger, there is no room to have a chamber in front of the hook hanger.

Right, the 3rd chamber is the figure 8 hook hanger holder, it has a peg in it to hold the figure 8.

The lure will be delayed now because my engineer was going to use stainless steel balls in the lure and now he has to make the lead ball mold, the original lead balls were not round so we will see what my engineer can come up with. I am going to have the lures made with 2 balls and with the 3rd rattle ball, if I try and have the 2 lead balls glued in place to make the lure silent then the balls will be slightly off center, I know this will not affect the lures action but the lure buyer is very picky and some will be mad and claim it will not work correctly. What are your thoughts ?

There is 3 chambers, the chamber closest to the lip is the figure 8 hook hanger holder. And this shows the 3 balls inside, they look to be all lead. This is the original balls inside the suspending model This pic would show were the balls were.

Thanks, I will find out tonight if it had 2 lead ones in it, it must have. So then a good option would be to get it made with the 3rd rattling ball and without it ?

I hope to have a picture tonight of the weights inside. The original lure I guess has 3 balls inside and one was lead, I was told the lead ball was not very good that was in the lure I sent so we shall see. I know of the WW you are talking about, I got some of them and they would not swim, they would just roll and I think it had something to do with the lip, I had a few guys grind on the lip and made them work.

I found this info about it. http://www.eastman.com/Products/Pages/ProductHome.aspx?Product=71012369&list=Polymers http://www.eastman.com/Literature_Center/P/PP106.pdf

I asked about the buteryte plastic and my guy does not know of this type so it might be named something different ?

I still have a day left to make any changes, I will see if I can get that different plastic, should I have rattles added to them ? if so will steel rattles be OK ? Here is a pic of the lure in white plastic, the white was used so any defects can be seen easier, the lures will be made with clear plastic.

The mold I had built I used a pre rapala suspending model. I hope to have the lures in 1-2 weeks, it will have a lead weight and I hope it hunts like is mentioned. Bob, send me a email with your addy and I will send you some to test.

Hey Guy's I am going to try this stuff out myself, I take it you can let the stuff drip back into the can ? I see some guys are having trouble with heat and ventilation. I do have a couple suggestions. I made 2 boxes up and one box is sealed and holds a furnace fan in it with 3 6" hoses coming off of it, one hose is the exhaust that you can just stick out a window and the other 2 hoses connects to your work box and then inside your work box you can install a radiant heat panel on the ceiling of the box to heat the box, but it needs to be controlled by a thermostat, I do sell the radiant heat panels and thermostats but I offer a better thermostat then what you would need for this type of box and you can get a cheaper version on line for less money and it would work for what you need. You would want to make doors on the work box so you can close it to hold the heat. Depending on the size of the box you made and the winter temps will depend on what size panel you need, most would need a 80 watt panel and it is $65 shipped, at a discount for you guy's. just contact me if you want one if you order it off my website it will cost you more, here is the link on my website for it. http://pvccages.com/?wpsc-product=radiant-heat-panel-for-snake-cages-reptile-cages The 80 watt panel is about 12x24 and will heat a box to 150deg if not controlled., if you have a smaller box then you would want a 40 watt for same price and it is about 12x12 in size and will still heat up to 150 deg in a smaller box. I build reptile cages also so I just use one of those as my box and it has sliding glass doors for my doors and I can see in the box at any time without having to open the doors. You can get a cheap thermostats for about $35-$40 depending on shipping cost on line, the ones I offer are over $100 and are digital, the cheapy ones are just a on/off dial version with a adjustable temp range. here is the link for the cheap thermostat http://beanfarm.com/product_info.php?cPath=1238&products_id=5685&osCsid=a61309447c0b438d794a41aaac08a833

My thoughts on thickness. I have started to offer stencils on my website and .020 is just too thin, it cuts very easy but makes for easy mistakes and once a slit is made it is hard to cut another pass near it because it is so flimsy, were .030 is harder to cut but knife slips and flexibility is better so you can keep a straighter line. With .030 if you get it too hot it thins out like .020 when vacuumed.

right you got it, (you've bought some ) I have purchased from many different ones, it is just finding which ones are good and which ones are not going to rip you off. The guy I am sure your talking about, be prepared to be shorted and have bad lures with no refund. and pay extra for import fees.

Sorry but you do not know were I get my blanks, Most of my blanks are my molds that I had built. I have been on alibaba and good luck with that. I do not buy anything off there, been there done that...

I have scrap expanded PVC foam that I throw away it is 3/8" thick and can be chemically welded together to make it thicker. U probably would not be able to purchase the weld on to do it yourself. The plastic is free to anyone that would want it, I just ask that you pay for paypal fees and shipping. If u want it welded to make it thicker then add a few bucks. It can be cut to size on a table saw with a plywood blade, jig saw cutting is too slow and will melt the plastic but it can be filed or sanded to smooth out. A router can be used and makes a nice clean edge. email me if anyone is interested predatorbassbaits@charter.net I use the plastic for my other business pvccages.com

Hi, Sorry I do not know of any, The deepest I have is the DT-16

Getting a lure to suspend needs precise weight, if you use devcon for your clear coat I think it is about a 1/2 a gram heavier then dicknite clear and depending on what type of hook and split ring you use can change the weight also, a Gama hook is heavier then a owner or mustad.

It is probably the same plastic and the blue tint is just a dirty batch, maybe from re ground up plastic.

There is one wiggle wart out there and it does not swim so if you find it stay away from it. the only way you will ever get one is if you find someone willing to have the mold built to make them.

My #1 110 will suspend with all 3 hooks, these lures are very temperamental with the weight. You might be using split rings that are too heavy, if using the #6 mustad triple grip ( bronze ) with my 6mm split rings they will suspend. If your using heavier hooks try 5mm split rings.

some day this month I hope to have them in stock, my dang manufacture is slow, I should of had them months ago.