
wiredhatred
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Everything posted by wiredhatred
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Now, Im safe assuming it is regular gorilla glue you guys are talking about right? Ive tried their gel glue in the tubes like super glue and found that if any gets on the guard where you can see it, itll turn white. I also have some regular gorilla glue I havent even opened yet. Does that stuff dry clear? If so, I need to crack that bottle open...been sitting in my tool box waiting for a purpose.
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Your top color seems fine, I think a copper hi-lite with those other two would get a pretty close true reflection of a bluegill and would work. Go with a watermelon black flake on top with the hi-lite mentioned above. Go with a lighter colored watermelon with blue hi-lite, black flake (im talking the big hex shaped size from Del on top and bottom with some smaller sized black flake too) I also add some tiny gold flake and sometimes some tiny red flake with it too. That should make a pretty productive color. Could definitely mimic a bluegill close enough for a senko type bait...I take it its a senko type bait? If its a swimbait id make 1/3 of the bottom the lighter colored watermelon and keep the other 2/3 of the top of the bait the darker watermelon color. Itll be cool, it makes me want to pour some swimbaits right now.
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Got it on a lure making site. Had Lee stamped on the top of each ingot.
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Since I was feeling better today (been sick the past few days and received the rest of my jig shipment yesterday) I decided to give pouring some jigs a try. I melted a 1lb soft lead ingot in my precision melter and had so much solid stuff at the top of the lead. I put in another pound ingot and of course got even more stuff floating around the top. I had fluxed with some wax, and was prepared to have to scrape some impurities off the top but this was ridiculous!!! I musta scraped a whole pound of junk through out my pouring (did all into an aluminum can). Towards the end of my pouring the stuff I scraped seemed real crumbly. Now, this doesnt seem normal to me but ill ask you experts the question. Did I have some bad lead? Is it normal to have that much stuff to scrape off? I only got about 20-22 half ounce jigs when I figured I should be getting up to 32 half ounce jigs per pound. The floating stuff didnt want to melt, but should I have turned the melter on higher? Should I have melted it for longer? Help please. I could also post a pic of the junk if you want to see it.
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Anchor works just as well as Pyrex. I was in the same situation where Anchor was the only thing they had so I picked some up. Still use them, and have had no problems with them at all. I believe they are the exact same thing just a different brand and thats it.
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Definitely need some paper towels to wipe your pouring pans between baits as itll mess up your pouring stream...oh and add some pouring pans to your list. Lurecraft has some great ones with wood handles so you wont need gloves when using them (just when you are handling your pyrex). Also get some softener, and some worm oil for lure packaging. You dont want your lures sticking together in the bag. I also recommend having at least three pyrex cups and at the very least 3 pouring pans although I do recommend 3 pouring pans to every pyrex cup used. The reason why you want that many pyrex cups is if you want to pour 3 colored baits, use 2 for 2 layered baits. Also with at least 3 pouring pans per color, you will find it a lot easier and efficiant to have that many because once your pouring pan cools down or runs out of plastic, you can use another pouring pan while your pyrex still has heated plastic ready to go. Also lets the other pouring pans have enough time to cool down so you can pull out the plastic...and after about three pouring pans worth of plastic, your pyrex needs another reheating. It all works out pretty good. So, this is what I would add to the list If I were you: Pouring Pans (3 per pyrex used) Pyrex (extra ones for multi-colored baits) Paper towels Softener Worm Oil Gloves (or towel so you dont have to bother taking off the gloves to pour) Scent (grape works great and smells awsome)
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What I do is study current baits to get a good idea of what to use. Check your tackle box, or the internet like I do and look at baits in your favorite colors. You can usually distinguish the different colored strands used. As I mentioned before, it is to get an idea of what to use. Most of the fun I get making lures is creating my own color combinations and styles. You can try to get it exact, or have some fun being creative. As far as getting PB&J, just remember brown and purple and let your imagination lead your way. My
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Oh ok, thank you very much sir. Being inexperienced im taking safety to the extreme. Wont take long to be experienced though, im getting the rest of my order on the 13th so jigs away of me! I cant wait!!!
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I wasnt sure if it was a good idea to leave lead in my melting pot for a while. Just wanted to clear that up. Never done this before, I want to go into this with confidence and knowledge. Just wondering if the lead would come out of my melter as easy as the muffin pans. I would want to clean it for storage as right now I do not know how often I will be pouring lead. I dont want to keep lead in the pot in case moisture built between the lead and pot (somehow?) and want to keep dirt and debris off the lead as well. Id rather learn from experienced people than to learn from serious burns. Thanks.
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Thanks fellas, appreciate it. Thought about the muffin pan deal but I didnt know they just fell out, thought it have to put work into just removing the lead. Now, ive got the lee precision melter and wondered since ive got to scoop out all the excess lead, would the remainder of the lead I couldnt scoop out (and I sure as hell dont want to tip the whole melter to get the rest out) just fall out too when the heater and lead cooled down?
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I forgot to buy a lead ingot mold and was wondering if it would be alright to put molten lead in old soda cans (cleaned and dried first of course with lids removed). I know the melting point of aluminum is 1220.666 °F, around twice as high as lead (621.5 °F) but being so thin I wondered if it could melt the aluminum anyways. I feel almost dumb for asking, but I have always thought there are no stupid questions...especially about safety. Always better to be safe than sorry. I figure if it doesnt melt them, aluminum cans would be a great, easy, and inexpensive mold to use for extra lead. You could just peel away the aluminum to retrieve the lead disc.
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Ive decided it would just be better to pour in my shed and save myself from worrying about the pussies. Spike-A-Pike, thank you. Your post made my mind up concerning them grooming themselves. I couldnt make them house cats all the time, litter box odor sucks, and they all play with each other too much and knock stuff down. That and they meow like crazy by my door when I sleep because they want to use the box or want to eat. Thank all you guys for your help, as always I appreciate it.
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I am currently waiting for the rest of my order so I can start pouring lead jigs. I was planning on doing this in my garage as I got the best working area and ventilation there. That is also where my cats spend most of their time, definitely all of their sleeping and eating time. I was wondering if it was a bad idea to heat and pour lead baits in the garage (i would let them in the house for the time I was pouring baits of course) due to lead vapor and dust if any that could contaminate their living space and food. Does lead vapors leave a residue on surfaces they contact, any dust? Any help is greatly appreciated as I do not want to endanger the lives of my cats, no matter if they come equipped with nine . I do also have a shed with a ceiling vent that'll suck up air from the shed space that I could work in. Not as spacious but can be done.
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Ok great. Thank you guys. Ive been working there for years and always thought that I should have been collecting all the scrap lead in case I started pouring my own jigs and spinnerbaits. Coulda had a ton by now . Oh well, better late than never. Take it easy fellas.
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Hello there. I work at a major truck stop and have tons of wheel weights (not the kind you clip on the side of a wheel like car tires, these stick on the inside of the rim and is soft lead. I can scratch it with my finger nails) and wanted to know the best way of cleaning them. The used ones are covered in dirt, grease, oil and most have a sticky foam on one side. New ones just got the sticky foam strip. I figured I could scrape off the sticky foam and clean the lead with maybe brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol on a rag but wanted to hear some suggestions from you guys on what to use. Kind of a dumb question but I dont want to use anything that could harm the lead or me if I heat it up and it leaves something on it. I figure both brake cleaner and rubbing alcohol (which is a lot cheaper) evaporate quickly so there shouldnt be anything wrong with using one of the two. Any suggestions? Thank you.
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OMG where are you getting this lead? Im looking at 2.99 per pound of the popular lure making sites. Let me know that would be great!!!!
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You know I have been looking for the same thing myself...and im sure the great Terminator spinnerbait company wont be telling us anytime soon. So if you find out my friend, let me know too!!! In the mean time I will continue to use those great baits, as well as my own homemade spinnerbaits.
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Gustine, California actually. Im pretty close to the San Luis reservior and its forebay where the world record fresh water striper was caught. Just last summer someone caught a 60 pound fish on a fluke. I definatly believe you about muskrats being able to swim long distances underwater. This one was definatly getting attacked though. I usually see them do a little dive when they would go subsurface, this one was getting pulled down. Pretty funny though, mother nature is a beautiful thing, but sometimes such a b*tch. Know anyone that makes a footlong muskrat swimbait? Seriously though, this has made me consider getting an ms slammer or something similar, wakebait for sure. If im not mistaken, there is some swimbait that has a rather ratlike tail as apposed to the big hammer type tails. I think its one of those ac plugs or something. Definatly getting one now if i can find it. Maybe some small ones too, im sure bass eat the babies.
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Today I fished a local dirt canal that I usually do. Caught 6 bass and it was getting pretty dark so I decide to call it a day and walked for the truck. I was just about to get to the truck when I hear what sounded like someone chucking a 20 pound rock into the canal. I turn quickly towards the giant splash noticing nothing but huge rings in the water about 100 feet or so away. I sat there thinking to myself, "what the hell was that???". After about 3-4 seconds of being extremely curious and confused, I see a pretty big muskrat rise to the surface. Not but 2 seconds later I see and hear the same lound splash and see the muskrat disappear. Thinking to myself and remembering what I have read on the internet, I recall an article about a certain fish that when feeding sounded like what I heard, and if im not mistaken, used close to the same description i did which triggered the memory. The muskrat again rises to the surface, only to be sucked down again a few seconds later. This time I see the culprit who is trying to get itself a decently large meal and comfirm what I have been thinking. I instantly recognized the beast when I seen its stripped and silvery scales. This striper was huge. The muskrat never resurfaced. I tried to catch the fish, and felt like kicking myself in the butt for leaving my big swimbait pole at home. Then again, after eating that im sure it was plenty full! What a day!!! -Gilbert