dampeoples

I can recommend a Paasche Millennium, as it's what I use with good results, I think the VL is basically the same rig, they take the same parts. I'm having a love/hate relationship with my UM mold as well, good to see i'm not alone!

I dip my lead baits in Dick Nite with no problems whatsoever, these are powder painted, and airbrushed finished, using Createx, Polytranspar and Wildlife Colors paints. I just dip, hang, wipe the drip, hand them the other way, and come back later, no problems. That's why it really bugs me that I can get good results from the DN with lead, but not plastic bodies!

I've been trying out different clears, and wanted to share my experience with this stuff, I painted a handfull of baits, using a Createx white base, and Polytranspar colors, and I can't remember if I used Polytranspar black or Wildlife Colors black for the back, the red on the popper mouth is Createx. I did a two in Devcon, which clouded up, I can't seem to recall, but i think everything out of this particular tube has been bad, I've tossed it, and have had good results with this stuff in the past. I did one in Dick Nite, using the Polytranspar clear Gloss that I got in a kit first, to protect the Sharpie from the Dick Nite, this is nice and shiny, but there are some spots in it, I think they might actually be dirt, as I had to turn them outside, because that stuff stinks! I got a bottle of this new Seal Coat, it's water based, so I assumed it would work over water based paint, so I did two baits in this, brushed it on with a cheap brush, which lifted the Createx, and didn't seem to do so well with the Polytranspar. I put them on the wheel, and got this after about 15 minutes. I've contacted CSI, and they have requested to see these baits, so I sent them off earlier this week, I hope he can figure out what's wrong, as their guy stated that my assumption was correct, that water based paint shouldn't interact with Seal-Coat.