dampeoples

I dunno about ya'll, but I use bubblegum and for some reason, chat ter bait is starred out.

There is your answer right there, the self-leveling properties of the glue are it's biggest disadvantage. Try using a different type of clearcoat, I personally use Dick Nite Lurecoat. If you click on one of his banner ads, it'll take you to a page where you can get a trial jar of it for free, just pay the shipping. I really don't know of any other style of clear, any epoxy will have the same properties. There are many, many threads on Lurecoat you can read up on while waiting

Depends on what the reel is made out of, Magnesium and Aluminum will pose adhesion challenges. If you want a laquer, the Advance Auto Parts carry a line of paint from Duplicolor called Paint Shop, it's a 3 part system, prime, base and clear, $20 each for a quart,, limited colors, but it'll get the job done. When mucking about with laquer or Urethane based paint....BE CAREFUL, it ain't Createx, and it'll hurt you. Badly. Wear a respirator, and heed ALL warnings, the Icocyanates in Urethane paint are absorbed in your skin as well as your lungs

It looks similar to the vein colors at Columbia Coatings, but i'm not 100% sure that's powder

Check the faq's on their site, it'll get you started. Also, I spoke with someone there named Carol (via email) she was very helpful if you need more stuff answered.

Oh, just wanted to say that I admire you for wanting to know why, so many folks on this site want to just know how, and do things with no understanding of how it works, and end up with a product that shows that, or no idea how to fix things if they find themselves in an unusual situation! With your attitude, you'll figure it out, and have yourself a superior bait, and that'll show. Good luck with it.

I do not know if it won't work or not, and am definitely not saying it will not work, but to read and find out. Chemical reactions would possibly take place because the paint, when the correct type is used, bonds to the surface that is painted, then subsequent layers to the previous layer. Any weakness in the layers is bad, as the entire job in compromised at that point, including the clear, which can then only 'grab' the layers, instead of the entire thing. At least that's how I think it works I'd do some more research, but piddled with this stuff a bit, figured out I don't really enjoy doing it, and pushed it aside in favor of things I get a kick out of.

I always thought that was a sticker, but have never held one to inspect it

Look up a guy here by the username Plop

I tested one and it worked, using Createx and Dick Nite, and such. Never put any D2T on the stuff. It's been a long time since I used this stuff, but it seems there was something that needed to be done to prep it before painting, check around the Alumilite site, everything you need there. If in doubt, search for posts by a member named Husky.

Some folks might mix because that's all they have, but I've used LC's bubblegum, and it does well with sticks, don't have my recipe handy, but the more drops you add, the less the color will affect it! Not that big of a deal with the salt, at least to me, as bubblegum is a whitish pink to start with.

Looks so much better than paint Way to get it done the hard way Jim, it shows!

ah sweet, I was thinking it was based on the Zoom worms

The best I understand it, it's the regular one with a flat piece on top of it, so it will look the same as the regular one, I think Ghostbaits has one, but is a two piece to facilitate easier pouring.

It's not too expensive, you can get little kits on their site for cheap. No pressure pot, just mix and pour, Husky is the one with the most experience with this, I think, with Coley being way up there as well. Not sure of the hardness, there are different additives that can be added to this stuff, to make it do different things

It looks to be a resin mix, like Alumilite or such

He's talking about the plastic buzzbait blades

OK then, Rainbow Lungs!

What he said. The bottle says water based, so it doesn't have the cyanide stuff in it that laquer paints do, but it's not non-toxic by a long shot.

Your problem can be easily fixed by using an appropriate respirator when doing ANY paint/clear work.

Don't let the door hit him in the ass!

Being out on the island, I'd search eBay for places that sell it, it can be expensive, but is there to be had, at least last I looked. I've got a plumber buddy that brings me some from time to time, might be something fo ryou to look into. He gets his from some sort of repair work, it's plumbing lead, so i don't want to know exactly what they do with it

Compare that cavity to the other cavities, see if there is some old lead or something in it to cause things to not fit flush

Lurecraft will also pour them for you, last I heard

Bobby is correct, it's an obstruction, and that's excellent advice on backflushing. If you're not doing it, it ain't clean