rfdong

Mark, aliexpress is the best place to get them but it will take a few weeks. Can get same on eBay but willl cost more and still probably take a week.

Thanks for the tips. I do all of those things. I added the vent channel and it helped a lot for the 3/8 oz head but the 1/2 still needs a perfect pour even with heating the components. Really seemed to need the lead nozzle all the way down into the pour hole too. Vent helped some but didn’t solve it for the 1/2 oz head.

Here’s the mold. My thought was similar to Cadman. May try to heat as well. Thanks for the suggestions.

I’m using the poison tail mold to make bladed jigs using Figure 8 link. Using a big hook and the link I have a lot of issues getting the collar to pour. It has to be a perfect pour right down the hole for the collar to fill. Was thinking of maybe doing a mod and putting a vent channel to help it? Was thinking best place would be at the bottom of the collar area where the hook exits the jig. But since I’ve never done this looking for advice since I’m not sure of the liquid dynamics which are happening in the mold. Or would opening the pour hole be better? Thanks in advance. rob

Thanks but it’s a niche for me as I use as a buzzbait trailer so a lot of stuff to buy and time for a item I’d like to just buy in bulk but may have to go that route if I can’t source etc. thanks

Looking for someone who pours split tail trailer? Want bubblegum color in a harder plastic formula. Let me know if you can do this? Can’t find them anymore, Lunker lure used to make them but not anymore. Thanks

I’ve been pouring for a while and for my own use I’m generally fine and can figure out how to pour most molds satisfactory. But recently tried a ladle pour and noticed all that gunk in there and discovered this thread. Used an old votive candle and it worked great and my lead looks so much cleaner. Haven’t poured yet but I’m already hopeful and I’m sure I can ladle pour now. thanks for all the great info.

Not looking for a short shank per se but I started with spinnerbait hooks which are mostly extra long so when you go to a 5/0 it’s pretty long. Wanting something more regular shank but stouter than regular worm hook. Anyone know what hook is in the Jackhammer?

So looking for some ideas. Would love to find the Jackhammer hook but not sure it exists in the wild except small packs of the Game heavy cover flipping hook. But for guys who are pouring their own bladed jigs, what hook and size are you using? I started with the standard spinnerbait hooks but would like to find shorter shank and wider gap hook. TIA Rob

Thanks

Can anyone point me in the direction of where to buy this hook? I’ve heard Facebook but I’m not on FB so looking for the source? Or a link to the FB page? Thanks

I have a few molds that I modded that have similar issues. What I do, is heat the lead as hot as you can so it flows better. I try to put the Lee spout as close to the pour hole as I can and angle it so the lead pours straight down into the mold. Lastly, open the spout full so the lead flows as fast as it can. You may over pour a few until you get your timing down but unless you’re doing large numbers doesn’t matter. Hope that helps your problem.

Anyone know a source for just the hook, no keeper? Clearly they make the hook but I can’t find anywhere not pre made with keeper for a pretty penny. For that matter doesn’t seem like anyone sells flipping hook no keeper? I know both owner and Gami make straight shank but I’m unsure if the hook gap and wire gauge is the same? Thanks Rob

Tape it exactly where you want it, close tightly And hit it with a hammer on both sides. I’ve done it many times for hooks. yes you can use JB WELD to close/repair areas. Done this too and it’s lasted years

These are some swim jigs I made. The top one is the poison tail....

You can find the information you’re looking for by doing a search. Lots of threads out there about molds, modifying, opening hooks or using figure 8 links. The poison tail has what you are looking for if you want to modify. The aluminum molds can literally be modified with a hammer, I modify mine by starting with a hammer and refining with dremel. You can’t buy the coffin style from any tackle or component supplier, you might want to try an auction site..... The other route is the D and M swim jig, you can open the eye and attach a blade very easily, comes out looking a lot like their old piranha bladed jig. .

I just put them in a vise, clamp tight and bend with my thumb as far towards the vise as I can. Bends nicely and crisply. I don’t put a big bend generally so works well.

Heat them with a torch but away from the blue flame slowly they will turn bluish/blk

Thoughts on why the sparkie head is better Jeff? They seem pretty similar. Thanks

Any thoughts on whether the thickness of the blade makes a difference? I have a few of the old Phoenix baits, and a few coffin blades from Barlow’s when they used to sell them. It’s noticable in terms of how thick the Barlow’s ones are compared to the old Phoenix blades. Got me wondering if that would make a difference? Could see a lighter blade vibrating faster??? Vs maybe flexing under load/retrieve? Any thoughts? Or overthinking it?

Couple of questions. Of the blades available now, what's the difference in action between the shakee with or without holes? When does the Z man patent expire? Anyone know? and thirdly, anyone got any old stock coffin style blades they want to sell? If so email me rfdong@sbcglobal.net thanks Rob

I use the ones from Jann's seem a bit sturdier to me. But others use the Barlow ones without problems. I use size 2 and have caught fish to 9.5lbs on them.

I use the Jann's fig 8's as the ones from Barlow did seem like a lighter wire. Not saying they don't work but the Jann's seemed stouter and have held up well on some big fish. Just my .02

Anyone use these in Do-it flat eye football mold? Will it fit or fit with min modification? Thanks

Looking to buy some, anyone use it? Thoughts on it? Cheaper than pro tec but looking to see if it's any good, not get what you pay for....thanks